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HELP!!!!..Im pulling my hair out!

Q

quackaddict86

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lebanon County, Pa
Ok so for the past week my jeeps been puking up anti-freeze. I replaced the bottle about a yr ago from Q-tec. Ive been through 3 caps in this time and just replace in 2 weeks ago cuz it decided to pop loose and gush antifreeze out. Now when I shut it off it fills up the bottle and fizzles out the hose connecting on top of the pressure bottle and under the cap. The cap is tight? and so is the hose clamp holding the hose on? Ive read about putting in the Moroso filler in the hose adding a regular cap and over flow bottle. Should I go this route if not what could be my problem with the closed system? Thanks alot guys!!!
 
temp gauge never goes over 210. it had overheated a few months ago due to my fan clutch. when i drive the guage goes up to 210 an then the stat seems to open and the gauge drops. so confused i dont know which way to turn.
 
Can we get the basics? Year? Engine? Helps out... you mentioned closed system so I'm assuming its an older model..
 
Ok, there is no cap for the pressure bottle worth a dang other than the Stant 10244. It is for a 700 series Volvo 2.3 L in the mid-late eighties. The cap has several charming features. First, it will screw down on OEM and aftermarket pressure bottles AND it will not "strip" or "pop" loose, like the dealership OEM caps and the aftermarket caps will do. Second, it is of a lower profile and it will not be impacting against the underside of the hood when the pressure bottle expands, this extends the pressure bottle life by preventing stress cracks. Third, it has a 22 psi rating vs. 16 psi of the OEM/aftermarket caps. The additional pressure raises the boiling point of your coolant.

With no pressure your coolant is boiling at a lower temperature.

Good luck.
 
Ok so you think I should try another cap? I was thinking of putting the moroso filler neck in my upper rad whose and giving it and over flow and an actual rad cap. Then id have to change the heater contorl valve and over flow bottle. Is it better to do this or try fixing the closed system? I want to drive it 2hrs up state this weekend and not 100% sure i trust it in its current state of puking antifreeze every time I shut it off. Thanks so much guys for the input.
 
Put the Stant cap on, $9, and drive it. Should be fine.
 
Well I found a old cap laying around that I thought was junk. It seems that has stopped the leak at the cap. Trimmed up the hose and tightened the heck outta the clamp and it stopped that. Only this is when I shut it off after running 15-20mins I see no fluid in the bottle. How full should I keep the bottle. Also when im driving the temp will climb to 210* and then drop to about 180*. But when I approach a stop sign and start to slow down it climbs slightly over 210* which it has never done before. That things never goes over 210*. Low on coolant?? Thanks much.
 
Ok, the pressure bottle should be no more than 1/3 full when COLD. The other 2/3rds of the bottle is for the expanded coolant.

Yes, it sounds like you probably have some air in the system. Bit of a pain, you will have to "burp" it. Search for "burping cooling system", it has been posted up numerous times.

While you got an old cap to work, for now, I highly recommend the Stant 10244. Many of us have been down this road, and thanks to Ecomike's work we have benefited greatly.

Good luck.
 
Joe I thank you for such quick responses. Where can I get a Stant cap. And I read somewhere about pulling the coolant temp sending unit from the intake to burp the air does this work or is the better methods? Thanks again.:yelclap:
 
Couldn't help but spy this little thread. I too did the whole stock cap and bottle trick several times. The only fun part about a cap popping off is when you raise the hood and see it pop off.
Cool beans :)
I ended up spending some extra cash and did the whole aluminum bottle and standard 16lb cap. Been happy since.
Implying no recommendation, just a bit of "there are other options" thing.
http://www.macsradiator.com/replacmentjeepradiatorfilltanks.aspx
 
The temperature gauge sending unit is in the back of the head, driver's side, single wire connected to it.

Park with a nose down attitude, pull the sending unit--be careful, they break--then add coolant to the pressure bottle until only coolant comes out of the sender port, then put the sender back in tighten it down. It is NPT thread so it doesn't need sealer on threads. All single wire sensors ground through the body, so unless you have some conductive thread sealer don't use it.

Ok, now your pressure bottle may be too full--just suck some out (if you use the turkey baster, don't put it back in the drawer), or pull one of the little hoses and let some coolant mix out.

Not sure what parts stores you have in your area. Advance Auto carries them, they have them under 11244, but that number was superseded to 10244 per Stant website.

Autozone doesn't carry Stant; NAPA BK 7031396 is the correct one, O'Reilly carries Stant, as well as a lot of independent stores.
 
sbxj said:
I wouldn't trust that quadratec crap for your Jeep :explosion
OEM when at all possible
Click to expand...

Last OEM one I got at the dealer was the same thing as the Quadratec crap. That was about 5 years ago before I gave up and converted to the open setup. I did learn on my 89 that its critical to get it bled properly or it will boil over in an instant.

You don't by change have a bad head gasket do you?
 
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