Rear air bumps

[tone]

Where are you guys mounting your rear bump stops/strike pad at? I know it has to be stock location, I'm just trying to figure out how to go about doing it?

[crazyjim]

down through the frame rail from what I've heard.

[grandrunner]

^^ x2

[tone]

So cut/notch out the unibody and counter-sink the bump and weld it in?

[grandrunner]

Look at t&js kit and copy it

[tbburg]

So cut/notch out the unibody and counter-sink the bump and weld it in?Usually, they hole saw through the center of the frame, right up through the floor boards. Put a bump can mount in and weld it in place, then plate the heck out of the surrounding rail. They also run a tube from mount to mount inside the car, and attach it to the floor.

[tone]

Thanks for the info I've been surfin around the jeepspeed forums too. As for strike pad, what are most using? Ex: Leaf spring plate like full tractions where it has a raised bump stop mount. And what size stroke is more common for a bump in the rear 2" or 4"?

[GrimmJeeper]

Look at t&js kit and copy it

or support a NAXJA vendor and buy it from T & J's, lol.

BAD RYAN! :twak:

[tone]

I've bought plenty of parts from T&Js when I lived in Georgia and wouldn't hesitate to do business with them again, I was gonna email them about a couple of things when I get some time... :)

[grandrunner]

or support a NAXJA vendor and buy it from T & J's, lol.

BAD RYAN! :twak:

Haha Just tryin to help a brotha out. Like most peeps
were on a budget.

[FordGuy]

Thanks for the info I've been surfin around the jeepspeed forums too. As for strike pad, what are most using? Ex: Leaf spring plate like full tractions where it has a raised bump stop mount. And what size stroke is more common for a bump in the rear 2" or 4"?

Run a 1/4 in thick spring plate, weld a 1/4 plate on the side for the contact area for the bump to hit, then you need to add a tube from the contact plate straight down to your axle tube or it will fold like a taco.

[GrimmJeeper]

im just givin you crap man :D

[grandrunner]

haha i know. ill be buyin off them once i become red letter member..hopefully soon.

[Cache96]

Anyone have some pics of the bumps mounted?
This is going to be my next project.

[tone]

Reason for asking is cause I just put the deaver leafs on with the full traction spring plates and it has a raised bump stop strike pad and I only have about 1.5" up before it bumps and it hits the bump if I hit a dip in the road too fast or whatever it may be...

[tone]

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/tone420/ed325ffe.jpg

Also bottoming out on my shitty shocks...

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/tone420/a1cf42e9.jpg

[Cache96]

Needs some lift..hahah

[tone]

I had plenty of lift with the rustys 4.5" leafs and a 1.5" shackle but lost alot when I made the switch to the deaver leafs with a boomerang shackle. This setup is only temporary untill I get my cage in, then I'm going through the floor with the shocks. I just figured bump stopping the rear before I did all of that work/money that it couldn't hurt any considering it's fairly cheap and doesn't seem like that hard of a project. Does anyone think that maybe the leafs need to be re-worked/arched or do I look like everyone else with deavers? The reason why I ask is cause my jeep is the only one in person that I have seen with deavers so I'm not really sure where my rear should be sittin. But what I do know is that I lost 1.5"-2" of lift when I switched leafs, but no complaints here because the deavers ride WAY better then the rustys leafs on and off road!

[tone]

Just to give an idea of how I sit (loaded with tool box/spare/parts)

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/tone420/6b5a59ae.jpg

[Smart Alex]

Remove that bump pad off the spring plate to start with... save for the shocks first before you add bumps. Tune a set of bypass's. and you might have to add an inch to 2 inches of something inbetween the factory bump and "framerail"... actually, I am 100 percent sure your shocks will bottom out first. and you dont wnat to launch a shock thru your cab. you need shocks bro...

[tone]

What is the most common size everyone uses when you go through the floor 14" stroke? And would a short body be best or do they not make short bodys past a point? Cause I can get a deal on 14" stroke 7100s...

[vetteboy]

14's would probably work fine, but I'd bet you don't even need that much travel.

Your shock setup right now is totally off. Get rid of those shocks, cut a hole in the floor, compress your junk to full stuff, and see where the top mount ends up. Then jack up the rear until the axle is hanging from the leaf springs, and see how much travel you actually have to work with.

I have 16's in the back of mine, it ain't no jeepspeed, but I have them limited at 13" to keep the driveshaft happy. But this might give you an idea what "through the floor" means anyway.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4673499957_57e3e699af_o.jpg

I don't know how much "lift" is on it anymore, but for reference, tires in this pic are 38.5.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs140.snc4/37349_123306967712621_123198891056762_125493_19892 06_n.jpg

[silverslk]

14's would work. I believe where space isnt your limiting factor to go as big as you can fit. You don't need 14" travel to run 14" or 16" shocks. Remember, as the shock gets bigger the more fluid it holds and the longer it will stay cooler.

[tone]

Just picked up a pair of 7100s 14" stroke for $200 now cage time :)