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Front Driveshaft

StylerG

StylerG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oklahoma City
Im needing to do a SYE, i have a 242, so im going with a hack and tap, and was wanting to do the front driveshaft in the rear, really like the idea of having two of the same driveshafts! Question is, when i searched, some people found using the front driveshaft was not long enough with a D35..which i have, but others seemed to be ok with it, so, which is it?? Can someone give me some very hands on experience, or a measurement for the front driveshaft length fully extended??? Its a re 3.5" kit that sits around 4.5
OR
would i be ok with a transfer case drop asking because with my old 3" lift i had no driveline vibes......
 
Last edited:
thanks, i had already read your work...the first time i noticed there was a difference for the 8.25 and d35 length needed, so really your the reason i even have a question about it and didnt just go out and do it, i dont know whether to thank you or not ha!
 
Also depends on if its a manual or auto. The auto trannys are longer than the manuals, making the front shaft longer, and the rear shaft shorter than the setup on a manual (read: with an auto, front and rear shafts should be close to equal). I have a 98 manual with an AA SYE, 4 inch lift, and 8.25. I took the front shaft from an auto xj and had to get it lengthened 2 inches to work on the rear of my jeep. The front shaft of my jeep is about 3 inches shorter than the rear. Hope this helps
-Jerry
 
ah, I thought you were talking about a 35, I can't comment on the 8.25, The I still say go and try it, heres the break down.

Used front in the rear shaft.
used driveshaft $90
New Ujoints $30
Spicer asaptor $60
Driveshaft lengthing with 1/4" tubing (big upgrade over stock thickness) $120
Total $300

New custom build driveshaft
CV Joint $300
Tubing $60
Ujoints $60
Spicer adaptor $60
Labor $100
total $580

This was how I worked it out and saved myself close to $300 going the used route.
basically for the CV joint itself local shops wanted 300 bucks, I built the whole shaft for that price. But this is based on the prices in my city, they may vary in different cities and in the states too
 
I have the 8.25/d30 combo, true 4.5" RE lift, found no need whatsover to lengthen front drive shaft.

Granted, don't do hard-core 'wheelin, so can't comment on droop), but RE upper and lower controls completed the picture...

Btw, AW4 w/242, '98 classic.

And... it's your lucky day. Just rebuilt fds, it's 34 and 3/8" fully extended, center to center sitting on my bench at 2:05am est(insomnia)...

Geez, talk about ds envy :mad:

Good luck...
 
thank mike
but like i first posted, i have the d35 in the rear, im certain it would work in your situation, with an 8.25, but has anyone done it with a d35 and not had to lengthen it?
 
Well, I am searching threads....thought I would post.

I am outsite doing mine right now. Finished everything up, and found the front DS to be about an inch too short for the rear. (AW4, 5" lift, D44)

Dammit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
There seems to be a lot of stuff missing here. I have a 00' 242/auto with a D44 sitting at 5". Mine fits fine. Pulled the front shaft off a auto myself. A D35 is shorter by an inch. The shaft in the rear is only extended 1/4 inch more than it used to be. I think it would still be good with another inch, but that would be pushing it. Being a half inch off either way would not be hard. Where your axle actually is, how much you actually cut off for the HnT. I don't think there is a definitive answer for you. You could do your SYE, put a front on and just see. If it will not work, you could just go front wheel drive till you order a new shaft. Not ideal, but it would work. At least you would have an accurate measurement.
 
The reason it "wont" work with the D35 rear is that the D44 housing extends the pinion yoke forward about an inch further than the D35 (I can't speak to the 8.25).

I did a PORC SYE on my rig and used a spare front DS. I was running a D35 and the slip joint in the center of the shaft was pretty much maxed out, but this was a temporary situation as the D44 was being prepped for the swap. I ran a few (less than 10) road miles that way, but any real rear end droop could have popped the DS. Once the D44 went in it was perfect. I've been running that way for 5 or 6 months now with no DS problems.

Specifics for comparison are: '89 4.0, AW4, 231 w/PORC SYE, D44, D30, RE 3.5 superflex system (wih full packs), Rocky Road 1.5" shackle, on 33's.

No vibes or other issues, even before I went off-road only.

HTH
 
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