Air Tools

Ok...so I just recently got a 21 gallon Central Pneumatics compressor.

Specs from the sticker:
4.9 SCFM @ 90 psi
7 SCFM @ 40 psi
115 maximum pressure (however, cuts off at higher than that)

As well, I have a Craftsman 1/2" impact wrench and a Craftsman 3/8" air ratchet.

I am trying to strip down an axle I just bought but neither of these tools will tork off any of the bolts/nuts I need loosened. They just spin hard and fast in mid air, but when secured to a bolt/nut, they make the ratcheting/impact noise, but the head stays put.

For reference, I am trying to remove the hub nut, the nuts holding on the calipers, the nuts holding on the steering knuckle, and the bolt holding on the lower control arm/

My wonder....are the tools just crap? Is the compressor not giving enough power? Are the bolts just that stubborn?

The only thing I have used this compressor for is the air hammer and filling the tires on my Jeep. Never used the ratchet or impact wrench so I have no prior experience...just an unrealistic (it seems) expectation that these would have been removed pretty easily with the air tools.

Thoughts?

That not a big enough compressor for most air tools.I have a 80gal/12cfm@90psi and can still run in down.

Hmmm....

the specs on the tools are that the:

ratchet needs 5.5 @ 90 PSI...so I am about .6 shy

wrench needs 5 @ 90 PSI...so I am about .1 shy

Outside of buying a bigger tank, do I have options?

Here is another thought...will this work?

I have a 3 gallon compressor also.

Could I get a coupler and run hoses from each compressor to the coupler then one hose from the coupler to the air tool to get more psi behind it?

Is that just asking for trouble???

That's not too great of a spec on the compressor, and you have to factor in what kinda torque your impact has. Not all are created equal.

When talking about the "less expensive" compressors,they are usually "overated" based on some "interesting" numbers(so basically those are under IDEAL test conditions).Also theres a difference in performance between "airless/oil" types(besides the obvious noise difference).

I have a 28 gallon, 150psi Campbell Hausfeld that I got at Lowes a few years ago. I will let it build up till is shuts off, turn the regulator on full, and with the 20 year old Craftsman gun I have, it will undo the hub/axle nut, the torque spec of which is 170lb/ft. The only time this combo may let me down is lower control arms. Anything like this, I'll start with the breaker bar, with a 3' piece of 1" EMT conduit on it. If it doesn't want to come loose, this will snap it! The compressor isn't rated for painting, although I've done a fair share of it, just let it keep up with you. The 150psi gives you a good shot of power, although you'll use it quickly, and the motor won't come back till it's down to 100psi. It's probably the biggest I could run on 120 volts, and although it's next to my breaker panel, with easy access to 240 volts, I wanted it to remain portable, as I've used it elsewhere on my property.

I've honestly never had trouble with LCA bolts, I just crank em out with an 18-20" breaker bar. No heat required. Pinion nuts on loose, unsecured axles are all I've really had to use a cheater bar on.

My dinky little 1 gallon husky air compressor is really, really not up to the task of running my IR impact gun. Heck, it can't even really keep up with a decent HVLP spray gun.

Finally I am stepping into the world of air tools.

I've had my craftsman professional 240volt compressor sitting in my garage forever now putting off the additional outlet until now. It's rated at 10cfm at 90psi and something like 15cfm at 40psi. I'm hoping it will treat me well for what I need as I slowly add air tools.

I ordered my first impact gun, went with the IR Thunder Gun for 200 bucks. I almost stepped up to their titanium line but it only offered a slight peak torque gain and doesn't look or sound as cool ; p . I can't wait to try it all out next weekend, I'm going to be doing nascar pit challenges in my garage for days!

Can anyone recommend a good air hose? I'm looking at the legacy flexzilla 3/8 hose, I only need a 25ft run in my 2 car garage should be plenty. I was also going to grab a set of legacy quick connectors too.

I would just use soldered copper water pipe for the in/on-wall portions, and I have been using my yellow 1/4 (or is it 3/8? not sure) home depot coiled air line for years now without problems. It's good to 140psi iirc.

kastein said:

I would just use soldered copper water pipe for the in/on-wall portions, and I have been using my yellow 1/4 (or is it 3/8? not sure) home depot coiled air line for years now without problems. It's good to 140psi iirc.

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once i get myself a decent compressor to replace my hf pos, i pan on piping my garage for compressed air.

kastein said:

I would just use soldered copper water pipe for the in/on-wall portions, and I have been using my yellow 1/4 (or is it 3/8? not sure) home depot coiled air line for years now without problems. It's good to 140psi iirc.

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MY garage isn't big enough to worry about running pipe along the walls, a 20 foot hose would reach wall to wall I'm sure.

Cottontail,With that compressor you should be able to break loose bolts. The thing is you need to get 90 to 120 psi to the 1/2 air impact. The air ratchet is useless. Can you tell us what the size of the outlet to the air hose is? The bigger the better. If its 1/4" than its to small. It is restricting the air flow.Is there a large pipe plug on the tank that can be remove to install a ball valve than a high flow quick disconnect. The next thing is to see what you max pressure is. The HIGHER the better. I would bet the pressure switch can be turned up to give you more pressure. You must check what your output pressure is?
Next is get a larger diamiter hose. 3/8 minimum But for a tiny compressor a 1/2 hose is better. It lets what little air you have get used effecently.
Last but not least is you air impact. First oil it with airtool oil. It helps alot to oil it . If you dont have airtool oil ATF is just as good.
Another thing is that your impact might just be junk. The best impact BANG for your buck is the I.R. 231. There is nothing on a Jeep it wont break loose quickly. It can be had for around 120 bucks on the web.
Feel free to PM me and Ill call you back and walk you through each of these steps to make the equipment you have work.
Ron

That's the impact gun I have. It failed to break loose some factory UCA bolts on a d30 I bought (with the gun on the highest torque setting.) I proceeded to remove them with a 20" breaker bar and one arm.

My compressor sucks, but I was a bit underwhelmed. I'm hoping it will perform better with a higher pressure compressor and a larger tank.

kastein said:

That's the impact gun I have. It failed to break loose some factory UCA bolts on a d30 I bought (with the gun on the highest torque setting.) I proceeded to remove them with a 20" breaker bar and one arm.

My compressor sucks, but I was a bit underwhelmed. I'm hoping it will perform better with a higher pressure compressor and a larger tank.

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Which impact gun, there's been several mentioned in the thread ha.

The IR 231C - it's probably largely due to my compressor, but I mean seriously... it still should have managed to beat me one-armed.

kastein said:

The IR 231C - it's probably largely due to my compressor, but I mean seriously... it still should have managed to beat me one-armed.

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Ok, that's what I figured but just wanted to be sure.

I'm hoping my choice of impact gun works out. The whole point is to knock off stuck on fasteners. I'll be sad if I have to use a breaker bar after all this ha.

If you have an IR231 and its not breaking loose bolts than your compressor is not giving you enough pressure. That is the best of the normally priced guns. Always set the output pressure as high as possible.
Ron

Also try grabbing the socket with your free hand and twisting it in the direction you are trying to go.

The compressor should be fine, I built my Jeep using a devilbiss 1.5 hp 3gal, patience is key. Might try a little Kroil as well.

And good luck with the hub nuts. If they havent been broken loose already, I would put that hub/axle in your axle housing on the jeep and go at it with the breaker bar and cheater pipe.

I usually break hub nuts free with a 20" breaker bar and a spare tire. Toss the unit bearing in the spare tire, thread a few lugnuts on loosely to keep it there, hold the tire vertical and sit on it, then grab the breaker bar and go to town.