Bleeding clutch

How does one go about bleeding the clutch?
There is obviously (what look like) a bleed point. We tried putting in a bleeder valve but it doesn't seem to get deep enough to open it up.

There should be a bleeder just like on brake calipers on it that you unscrew to open up. Check on the top of the slave

Many slave cylinders have the bosses for a bleeder, as the picture shows, but no bleeder, or a hole to bleed. I drilled the one in my 96 and added a bleeder from an older slave.

If you're reluctant to drill the hole (as I am), try this:

remove the slave from the bell housing, being careful not to let the rod come too far out. You must not allow the piston to get out of the bore, but it should come out further when off the vehicle and still be safe. It should more or less relax at that maximum point, but take care anyway. Make sure there's plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Now compress the piston as far as it will go, and slowly let it back out, again being sure that it doesn't come out past the bore. Try doing this a couple of times, and it should bleed, because, in theory at least, the slave piston actually displaces more fluid than the line. The Centrix replacement units also come with no bleeder, and this is what they recommend, but they also note that it may take a number of clutch actuations before it firms up. Both my son and I have found that done this way it does firm up and stay good, if all else is good.

Agree with both suggestions, your choice as they both work.

Bleeding a clutch slave is a pain in the ASS! Me and Ryno did it on my MJ, and I helped Jim and Andy do it when they replaced the trans in the MJ after I traded it to Jim. If it can wait until tomorrow night Brendan I can come by and help, I'll be at work until around 4pm or so I think.

Thanks for the replies! I am out of town this week so it won't be until next Monday before I get back to it.
Mike... I'll throw you a pm to see if you are available next monday