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Transmision overfill

guillermo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
El Paso, Tx
Dipstick reads that there is too much oil in AW4 so I go underneath and drain about 1/2 a quart. It's kind of dirty so I go ahead and drain it all and add 3 new quarts of fluid. I drove it around a couple of miles and now the dipstick reads past the "do not overfill" letters (way too much). If I drained about 4 quarts and only added 3 what's going on....
 
Are you checking the stick when it's hot, running and in P or N. Won't get an accurate reading otherwise. From a flat and level drain, you should get about 3 quarts, maybe 3.5.
 
Check, doublecheck that dipstick level. Be sure you are not reading some fluid that gathers on the dipstick from the wet tube and not from the bottom of the tranny.

Overfilling a transmission is bad news. Be sure you are in the safe range and never over FULL.
 
You are only draining 3 quarts of the total 14 in the system. If it is truly dirty, you should drop the pan, change the filter, and purge all the oil from the system, not just what's in the pan.
 
The dipstick is in the very corner of a large flat pan, so even a slight amount of tilt really effects the reading. Best way is to find a spot where the XJ is as level as you can get it, and use that SAME spot each time to check level.

The transmission/ATF takes at least 20 minutes of driving to fully warm up, (30 minutes is better) The level does change and final reading should be at fully warmed up to operating temperature, and level, and idling, in park or neutral, with hand brake on securely. NOT over the 'Full' mark.

(Don't take much to go from 'Add' to 'Full'. About a pint or so. SO go slow and easy adjusting level)

(Search for the long thread about adjusting the trans cable at the throttle body. Many have found a big improvement. Long thread a few weeks ago. Simple and quick adjust.)

DEX 3 !!!!!

Good Luck,
Orange
 
Thanks for the replies... The fluid was a dark brown, maybe "dirty" was the wrong choice of words. I will drive around some more and check the level afterwords. Hopefully it just needs to settle and if not I will drain some more fluid.
 
I can't believe what I did... I put the 3 quarts of tranny fluid into the engine (through the dipstick). Today I added the 3 quarts of tranny fluid where it should go, changed engine oil & filter and all seems to be okay... No funny engine knocks but what engine damage did I cause??? Im even embarassed to admit what I did...
 
I can't believe what I did... I put the 3 quarts of tranny fluid into the engine (through the dipstick). Today I added the 3 quarts of tranny fluid where it should go, changed engine oil & filter and all seems to be okay... No funny engine knocks but what engine damage did I cause??? Im even embarassed to admit what I did...

Consider it a major "learning" experience.

You ran your tranny low on fluid and your engine overfilled with oil. How many miles did you drive like this??

Neither are good, but it is over and done and assume that now both fluids are at the correct levels on the respective dipsticks.

Drive it and cross your fingers that there is no damage to either tranny or engine.
 
DEX 3 is RED (not dirty) so needs to be changed anyway.

Do some search as there are several threads on draining/flushing trans
...............

Some people put ATF in engine to clean sludge. (Do Not drive it, just idle twenty minutes or so - engine off, Drain immediately, new oil,filter.)

(More better is to simply change oil/filter at say 1000 miles max a few times- this cleans slowly so it doesn't clog something. Avoid city running, much as you can, and try for several 30+ minute runs highway. Engines get dirty from running too long on oil changes, and from not being run long enough at full operating temp mostly. The 'Bottom' oil/crankshaft area takes over 20 minutes running just to get hot and needs a while to cook off the contaminates)( If mostly short trips THAT IS Severe Service)

I would run less than 500 miles and change oil/filter again just to be sure to clear out atf and any crud that flushed loose. And check often, watching for dirty oil for a change or two.

(Stuff happens - Just learn and go on)

Good Luck,
Orange
 
For Ref -trans cable adjust at throttle:
(3 Aug 2010)

Thread-

"Anyone that hasn't adjusted there throttle valve cable do it WOW"

by b16a90teg

*****5 GOLD STARS

replys 97 / views 8719

Regards,
Orange
 
-Thanks for update-

Whew! Glad it worked out well.
................
Might check valve cover bolts are torqued ok.
May just need a gasket.
 
Could be the rear main seal as well, but I would tighten the valve cover bolts (not very tight, they are pretty small!) and see if it goes away before tackling an RMS job.
 
There are traces of oil all around the valve cover so I will tighten it up a bit and see if that helps. Do you guys recommend adding some engine oil stop leak ???
 
I don't like stop-leak of any kind... most of that crap is snake oil at best and cholesterol for your motor at worst.
 
Hose the engine top & bottom with carb cleaner & wipe up with rags. Drive for a day or two and see where the oil is coming from.
If it is the valve cover gasket, go ahead and replace it.
While you do, I highly recomend Toyota FIPG black sealant. If the dealership has the new gray stuff, all the better. It is expensive (15 bucks a tube) but I work at an independent volvo & toyota shop... The cars that came with the black from the factory don't leak a drop seemingly ever. Gray stuff... even better.
I wouldn't add stop leak.
If it is a rear main seal... your time, your money - mine leaks a (very) little and it barely makes it on to my "fix list". I just change oil at 3K and it never gets to "low" on the stick so who cares?
 
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