reverse light issue

So my reverse lights didn't work and i wanted to install some better reverse lights also. so i searched and found this great thread. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82734

I cleaned out the switch and re-installed it and my Lights worked again, but only like 2 times. so i went back through everything, and still nothing??? what else could it be? should i try the NSS again? HELP!!!!

This is a 90' limited FYI

there is a adjusting bolt did you try adjusting it?
:cheers:

i thought that was just a retaining bolt. i will look at it in the morning though. how do u adjust it? just loosen it, rotate the switch slightly, and tighten down?

i am pretty sure just turning the nut adjusts it.

Actually, the hole the adjusting bolt goes through is slotted. With the tranny in neutral, rotate the NSS until the line on the NSS body aligns with the groove on the shaft. Then snug down the bolt. Do NOT overtighten it or you may break the NSS.

Some people put the tranny into reverse and adjust the NSS until the reverse lights come on.

Torque specs are in the "Tech Archive" section of my website. I seem to recall the collet nut being torqued to 62 pound-inches (a skosh over 5 pound-feet,) but I don't recall the torque for the adjuster screw. It's there, tho.

5-90

Is access through the console or under the vehicle?

( I realize some of you can just walk up under your rigs!)

Underneath.

so this morning i went by the book to adjust it and....nothing.
I tried adjusting it in reverse even to see if and when the backup lights would come on and....nothing.
i am going back out now to take it apart one last time and take a look inside. anymore suggestions would be great. Damn! i'm frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, once you get it apart, make sure the little wiper arm contacts are clean and the springs are OK. You can use a continuity light or ohm meter to make sure you're getting good contact at the connector before you put it back in.

Check the connector pins on both ends to make sure they're clean inside. Then you can use a jumper on the harness side to make sure the BU lights go on consistently.

I have a digital meter that has a "audio" positon. When continuity exists, it beeps. When I adjusted mine, I put the tranny in reverse and rotated my NSS until I heard the beep. I tweaked it back and forth until I found the "middle" of the range of contact (it's not much).

OK, so i have taken this thing apart for the last freekin time! i give up. still no lights.

Before i spend $100+ on a new switch, i have a few final questions.

I am not at all experienced with electrical. My manual says to check for continuity between the terminals etc...My question is do i check the end that goes to the switch or the other end?

Also is there anything else i should check before forking out the $$$ ???

:helpme:

Make sure the little springs are there, and brush the blade contacts on concrete.......brake clean everything then use some dialectic or lithium grease to keep everything nice and greasy.

When reinstalled I had the same problem with my reverse lights.

Put your parking brake up, put a brick or something behind the wheels, turn the ignition on and shift into reverse. Have someone look at your reverse lights.

Now rotate the neutral safety switch until the reverse lights come on. Once your spotter says they are on, tighten it down snugly.....

There is a mark to tell you how to adjust it, but over years it will either get worn away or covered with grime....

That's what we did and it works.

mojojojo said:

OK, so i have taken this thing apart for the last freekin time! i give up. still no lights.

Before i spend $100+ on a new switch, i have a few final questions.

I am not at all experienced with electrical. My manual says to check for continuity between the terminals etc...My question is do i check the end that goes to the switch or the other end?

Also is there anything else i should check before forking out the $$$ ???

:helpme:

Click to expand...

Your FSM should say to check continuity at the connector for the switch - so you can do it on the bench, or with the switch installed. You'll disconnect the switch electrical harness from the vehicle harness, and then test the connector running to the switch.

Continuity is easy - most meters have a "continuity" function where the meter will give with a squawk when the circuit is good. The manual should show you which terminals have continuity when, and give with the gear selector settings (so, unless you're good or have a jig, test it on the vehicle.)

And, if you end up replacing the switch entire, I'd like to talk to you about the old one. I've got some ideas I'm working on, and I need a few "sacrificial sheep..."

5-90

o.k. checked the continuity of the switch. got a nice solid beep. even wiggling the shifter. so it must be good and adjusted correctly. still no lights.

Whats next?

Loosen up the NSS, put the jeep in reverse, pull ebrake so you don't get crushed, and have a spotter tell you when the lights come on,based on rotating the NSS left and right.......when they come on, snug up the bolt so its locked in place.

Blaine B. said:

Loosen up the NSS, put the jeep in reverse, pull ebrake so you don't get crushed, and have a spotter tell you when the lights come on,based on rotating the NSS left and right.......when they come on, snug up the bolt so its locked in place.

Click to expand...

i've tried that like 3 times. i get nothing. not even a blink.

Really dumb question - but did you check the faces of the contact plates while you had it apart? Were there any grooves, however slight?

Typically, when I rebuild an NSS, I'll take the contacts in a pair of pliers and run them over some 400 grit emery (in a pinch, a fingernail emery board also works neatly) to "refresh" the contact faces - which not only removes crud, but also helps to smooth them out again. After I clean them up, I'll run a thumbnail down the contact face and check for grooves - if I find any, I'll repeat the emery until they're gone.

Also, I'll only give a VERY LIGHT coating of Ox-Gard or Dielectric grease - nothing that is not meant for electrical use (like white lithium grease.) Ox-Gard probably works the best, and you don't need to pack the switch with the stuff - just a light coating on the contact strips and the wiper arm will do. Then, a VERY LIGHT bead of RTV black on the mating surfaces of the case halves to seal it against moisture intrusion - like Brylcreem, "A little dab'll do ya!" Don't get stupid with the stuff...

I've also been known to break down a fingernail board and use it to clean up the contact strips in the switch shell - not much here, but remove any varnish and crap buildup. Clean with contact cleaner or some variety of alcohol solvent (like denatured alcohol or methanol) to remove any leftover grit. Don't use booze - not only is there stuff in booze that will inhibit conduction, but it's a waste of perfectly good spirits...

5-90

i used dielectric grease, (just a dab).
I roughed up the contactors on the arm and the cover.
Used elctra clean solvent.

If continuity checked ok, then i am getting a good contact when in reverse...right?
Maybe a short or ??? Yes, i checked the fuse.