Simple questions regarding 8.8 swap: (I kinda searched)

I am getting ready to swap in a 8.8 on my 2001 XJ. I was just looking to clarify a few things:

To my knowledge, I can run this axle with my stock D35 driveshaft and no SYE as long as the lift doesn't cause vibrations, correct? I didn't see a particular reason as to why not as long as I had the flange-to-yoke adapter.

Welding the shock tabs flush (or in the middle of, don't know the correct wording) with the axle tubes would decrease the amount of uptravel and the overall length needed of a shock, correct? I am running JK shocks with a 2.5'' lift, so I'm pretty sure I will need to change these out for shorter shocks.

I know that it isn't ideal, but I could re-use the stock mounts that are on the 8.8 with a little modification, correct? If not, what are the "Mopar shock tabs and spring perch" part numbers that everyone talks about?


I just am trying to make sure that I have everything at hand so I can get this swap done as quickly and efficiently as possible whenever I finally get the axle. Thanks for any replies and insight.

-Silver60th

Well you kinda searched so I will kinda answer

The pinion on the 8.8 is going to be much longer than the D35, check to make sure the slip yoke doesnt bottom on the T-case.

As far as shock mounts, why not re-use the mounts off your D35? Hint: the little window in the shock mount is for the u-bolt.

you shouldn't need sye w/ 2.5" lift, if you have the correct yoke adapter you should be fine (can get the correct adapter off of ranger)- you can also use the explorer 8.8 flange if you get a 1310/1330 ujoint

Your current shock bolts hang about 2.5" below the tube, so if you were to weld the tabs in the center of the tube your shocks will be too long. with a 2.5" lift you might be able to run your stock shocks again? I'd recomend cutting the shock tab off your old d35 and modifying to work or there is a way to modify your 8.8 trackbar bracket to make shock tabs (requires cutting/welding)

stock 8.8 shock tabs cannot be re-used. Look where they are- your going from spring under to spring over... won't work.

Stock 8.8 shock tabs don't actually exist, they are part of the u-bolt plates.

Driveshaft - never gotten a straight answer on this, depends on your setup and your transmission as well as other stuff, measure and figure it out. Remember that you're going to want to set the pinion angle when you weld the perches on, so do that with the weight of the vehicle on the axle, the u-bolts loosely installed and the perches in the right places, just crank the pinion up with a bottle jack till everything lines up properly, then tack the perches on and pull the axle out again for full welding.

mopar part number is P4120074 for perches. at least it was 4 years ago.

driveshaft will be too long without a lift. You also have to count the inch that the flange adapter adds. 2.5" of lift may or may not be enough. You need to fully cycle the suspension to the bumpstops in the rear and make sure it doesn't bottom the slip yoke, or you're going to bust the t-case tailhousing.
A stock 8.25 driveshaft is shorter than the D35 one, I think.

I know its for barbie Jeeps, but this swap has been beat to death here:
http://www.myjeeprocks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16717

13 pages and the guy still does it wrong.

Ok, shock tabs won't work from the 8.8 (makes sense now that I look at the pics a little closer, sorry for the confusion).

Another question, the 8.25 driveshaft has a 1330 joint on it, correct? This would be a shorter shaft and bolt straight up the the explorer flange. I might have to grab one just to make things easier.

As far as using the mounts off of my D35, it would be the cheapest way to go, but I will hold off on that as I'm looking to sell it as a complete axle (since it only has 55k miles on it). I plan on using Mopar spring perches and shock tabs (opening the perches up to 3.25'') and using ZJ e-brake cables.

Stock shocks would work, given the difference in mounting positions. Thanks for clearing that up. Now I just need to find someone to trade my JK shocks to




Anyone see any problems with this?
Once again, thanks in advance!

-Silver60th

I've heard some say the zj e-brake cables may be too short...
also if your carefull cutting off you 8.8 spring perches you can just re-use them, they're solid, saves you a few bucks.

mgonos said:

I've heard some say the zj e-brake cables may be too short...
also if your carefull cutting off you 8.8 spring perches you can just re-use them, they're solid, saves you a few bucks.

Click to expand...

IMO the stock perches (meant for SUA) were too short, so I got aftermarket ones off a friend for 25 bucks (32 bucks new, not a big deal) but you could make a set out of a piece of 2.5x5x1/4" steel box less than a foot long. Heck you only need six inches, if you're on a budget you could probably do this for ten bucks and some borrowed plasma cutter time.

Well, just ordered the perches from Detroit through my dealership, $10 for a pair! Kinda excited about that. Even if I have to open them up a bit they are proven to work very well.

Sorry for all of these questions guys, it's just that most of the write-ups are for a YJ or TJ, and the ones that are for an XJ are kinda vague on various options and possible work arounds.

Anyone know anything about the 8.25 driveshaft working with the stock Explorer flange?

Also, can anyone confirm that the stock Explorer spring plates are reusable?

Last question (for now): I have seen some 8.8 users cut their old e-brake cables and use a cable clamp and a u-shaped metal channel, where can I find this channel?




Anyone else think it's crazy for an XJ with 2.5'' of lift and 30.5's to have an 8.8? Should be WAAAAY overkill for anything I need at the moment, but overkill is good

u-shaped metal channel is probably in the pulley / rigging equipment section of the hardware aisle of home depot, it's right near the rope and chain.

I don't see it as crazy, you got one with 4.10s in it right? Those should be pretty nice with the 30s and 31s gearing wise. I picked up *all* the parts, including brand new brake consumables, for my 8.8 build for less than it would have cost to regear my 8.25 to 4.10:1 and gained about a half inch of lift, much stronger axle, and disc brakes at the same time. Still haven't put it in though, winter happened (tough on driveway work) and then I had to move to a place where I can't work on my jeep in the parking lot, which keeps me from doing anything that takes more than a few hours.

"U shaped channels" are probably thimbles



Should be in any hardware store. Home Despot carries a variety of wire/rope related hardware.

kastein said:

u-shaped metal channel is probably in the pulley / rigging equipment section of the hardware aisle of home depot, it's right near the rope and chain.

I don't see it as crazy, you got one with 4.10s in it right? Those should be pretty nice with the 30s and 31s gearing wise. I picked up *all* the parts, including brand new brake consumables, for my 8.8 build for less than it would have cost to regear my 8.25 to 4.10:1 and gained about a half inch of lift, much stronger axle, and disc brakes at the same time. Still haven't put it in though, winter happened (tough on driveway work) and then I had to move to a place where I can't work on my jeep in the parking lot, which keeps me from doing anything that takes more than a few hours.

Click to expand...

I have my 8.8 (3.73's) in my garage ready to go into my MJ.
I already have an 8.8 (4.88s) in my XJ.

bought my kit both times from Ruffstuff. U-bolts and shock mounts.
very well made...here in the USA. And, they are a Naxja Sponsor.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/simple-spline-p-186.html

BOB

BOB said:

I have my 8.8 (3.73's) in my garage ready to go into my MJ.
I already have an 8.8 (4.88s) in my XJ.

bought my kit both times from Ruffstuff. U-bolts and shock mounts.
very well made...here in the USA. And, they are a Naxja Sponsor.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/simple-spline-p-186.html

BOB

Click to expand...

I strongly considered that... picked up my perches from one of my friends, made the spring plates myself for 30 bucks in metal (and they are BULLETPROOF and double as bumpstop extensions), paid $40 or so for 9/16" u-bolts with heavy washers and tall nuts from a local spring rebuilding shop. All I have left to handle is shock mounts, and I have no idea how I'm going to do those because the frame end of my shock setup is nowhere near stock at this point either, it's 2" square tubing for crossmembers with tabs hanging down and I'm currently running MJ shocks in the XJ.

I looked at ruffstuff, but just couldn't dignify the cost for what I consider a budget build axle. I can reuse/modify a lot of stock stock versus spending $120 for u-bolts, plates and mounts. I know it may be stronger, but it simply doesn't dignify the cost.

Plus, $50 for u-bolts seems a little excessive, a least around here. And the plates can be made fairly easily.

Not trying to put down a USA company. Sorry.


So, still the last question: Will the 8.25 driveshaft work with the Explorer flange? I read somewhere that the 8.25 driveshaft has 1330 u-joints but I may be imagining it.

It does not. All XJ driveshaft joints are 1310s. You can go the cheap route and use a 1310-1330 conversion U-joint, or you can get Spicer part number 2-2-1379 and install it instead of the stock one (I've heard wild rumors of this being found under Aerostar minivans, and Rangers, and Grand Marquis, and all manner of other vehicles, but every time I try to get one that way, I end up with another 1330 flange adapter.) Cheapest I've found yet is alljeep.com, they sold me one for $22. My local junkyard charged me $10 for the flange I pulled off a Grand Marquis attempting to get this the cheap way (which just got me an extra 1330 flange), so I think $22 brand new is pretty fair.

Also - as for the $120 cost, yeah, I thought about the same till I put the stuff together myself. I ended up spending nearly as much and will likely have spent as much by the time I get the shock mounts done, though I did end up with much stronger u-bolt plates IMO - 1/2" steel plate, 6" wide and 10" long (the extra part hangs out toward the center section and will be cut to shape later, once I figure out where I'm putting my bumpstops.)

I understand the concept of saving money where we can.
I am not quite talented enough, so rely on cash at times.
Ruffstuff does sell sock tabs separately and at a good price.

BOB

Wasn't trying to offend ya BOB
I'm not talented either, but my dad is hehehe.

I'm probably going to get those shock tabs, they are indeed a good price and look well-made. Thanks for the heads-up.

-Silver60th

Silver60th said:

Wasn't trying to offend ya BOB
I'm not talented either, but my dad is hehehe.

I'm probably going to get those shock tabs, they are indeed a good price and look well-made. Thanks for the heads-up.

-Silver60th

Click to expand...

no offense taken!
the age old question of building or buying goes on.
the 8.8 is a good choice.


BOB

Ok, now that I have read, and read, and read some more, I think I have a complete parts list to gather before I grab this axle next week. Can someone check over my list? (sorry I keep asking you guys to hold my hand on this project, I'm just a stickler for being prepared)

Axle itself (96-2001 Ford Explorer rear, hopefully 4.10's with a LS, $185)
Spring perches (Mopar, $10/pair)
Shock tabs (will order soon, or custom make)
1 passenger brake line (DORMAN Part # H380528, $8.94)
New 3.25'' U-bolts (getting these locally made, $?)
Modifying Explorer u-bolt plates to work
?'' of pre-flared hard brake line
Explorer flange (free with axle)
1310/1330 conversion U Joint (Spicer Part # 5-134x, $21.95)
1/8'' wire rope thimble x2(Home Depot Part # Model 7300-24, $1.98 each)
3/16'' wire rope clamp x2(Home Depot Part # Model 7310-6, $2.37 each)
old stock Dana 35 t-fitting and housing-to-frame brake line

Possibly new rotors/pads?


I think that should be it. For those of you wondering about the wire rope thimble and clamp, that will be how I attach the stock XJ E-brake line to the 8.8. This should be one of the cheapest 8.8 builds by the time I am done :gee:

And on a side note, all of these parts can be sourced locally. NAPA carries the 1310/1330 conversion U Joint, and if they don't they can usually have it in 1 day.