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New engine install

Boneless-Jeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arlington,WA
Here's what im workin with
1991 cherokee base
4.0L
Ax-15
:puke:249k on the clock (idk if that matters to much or not its a jeep right ? haha)

2001 cherokee
4.0L
147k
good oil pressure and compression
(purchased from John at auburn car repair and offroad)

Ok, so heres the deal I pulled the motor out of my jeep today,to be replaced with the '01 cherokee six that will be using all my accessories (from the '91)and besides degreasing the shit out of the engine bay what else should I replace or check while my motor is out ? Im 17:looser: so this is a learning experience for me although I think ive got some of my bases covered.
I'm already getting new brown dog offroad poly motor mounts and a full length header to replace my cracked header ,im thinking I should get a new clutch I have no idea if its good or not and no clue how to see if it is, my flywheel looks pretty good almost no knicks in any of the teeth.Also my distributor's condition is questionable lol but how can i see if its worth a damn ? whats the best replacement for it junkyard ? oem ? or aftermarket, cost effective is what im lookin for.
Also I had a high flow oil pump in my old motor to make my bearings last a bit longer is it worth tearing into this old motor to put the high volume pump in the '01 motor ?
Any thing besides a complete new seal and gasket set in the '01 motor worth doing?
:sad1:
 
2001, 0331 crack-prone head. I'd put the 7120 from the 91 on it after getting it gone through. Replace the clutch now if you can swing it, it's pretty hard to tell if the pressure plate's going soft until you're driving it. To check the distributor just move the shaft and check for play in the bushings. Search here for the indexing procedure when it's time to drop it in, they don't run well a tooth off and it doesn't adjust timing like an old V-8.
 
Your old head ,new head gasket and new bolts ,new oem dist,new water pump harmonic balancer check all gaskets and frost plugs, you should replace the frost plug on the back of your head before you put it in, oil pump standerd duty is fine.
 
ok well I popped my distributor out today the shaft doesnt move that much at the end where it meshes with the cam,but if i move it at the rotor it has a little play in it maybe like 1/16 of an inch of movement not much,is that acceptable ?
 
Up down Ok, side to side not so good. Stop at the auto parts store and have them pull one for you--compare yours to a (presumably) reman.
 
Also Im going to replace my clutch and flywheel, any good suggestions on a replacement clutch ive got 3.07's rollin on 30"s lol(for now) and I tend to be mean to my rig when I wheel so Id like something maybe a little tougher than a stock clutch if its worth it ,just dont know exactly what and I dont mind a stiffer pedal .
 
You're gonna run into issues with the injectors. From 91-01 they changed the injectors' electrical connectors. you can either re-splice the new injectors on your new lines or use your old ones.
Also make sure to check the oil pan gasket, rear main seal and water pump for leaks because it's a hell-of-a lot easier to do those (especially the oil and and rear main) while the engine is out of the car.

You can check for leaks around the oil pan simply by looking at it. If it's wet then just replace it its super cheap and worth it. The rear main you can tell if that leaks mainly by puddle of oil on the ground if the car sits after running. That too is a cheap fix that your gonna wanna do (i kick myself in the ass for not doing mine whenever i look under my heep).
 
You're gonna run into issues with the injectors. From 91-01 they changed the injectors' electrical connectors. you can either re-splice the new injectors on your new lines or use your old ones.
Also make sure to check the oil pan gasket, rear main seal and water pump for leaks because it's a hell-of-a lot easier to do those (especially the oil and and rear main) while the engine is out of the car.

You can check for leaks around the oil pan simply by looking at it. If it's wet then just replace it its super cheap and worth it. The rear main you can tell if that leaks mainly by puddle of oil on the ground if the car sits after running. That too is a cheap fix that your gonna wanna do (i kick myself in the ass for not doing mine whenever i look under my heep).
the engine is getting new seals and gaskets top to bottom,side to side courtesy of the old man since he had a bad experience on his 258 he pulled at a junkyard that leaked everything under the sun lol and im using the accessories from my old motor (intake mani) and stuff so I think im ok
 
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