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Brake line Q (need replacement)

VAhasnoWAVES

VAhasnoWAVES

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake City, Mi
i have break line on my rear axel that has a very small (but noticable leak) and i need to replace it before it fails. its the one that goes from the distribution block off of my braided line (RE extended break line) up and over the diff to the passenger side brake.

will the stealership have one? or does anyone know the measurements i need to take to autozone and get what i need to bend one up? ive got a 3k mile trip coming up on friday and this needs to be taken care of BEFORE HAND.

97 XJ, 4.0, AX-15, 231, 8.25 axel.
 
Years ago when I did a disc brake conversion on my 1998 XJ C8.25 and need to replace the steel lines since I needed banjo connections on the calipers. I went to Industrial Liquidators and had Earls braided stainless lines fabricated to replace both lines from the distribution block (drivers side axle tube) to the disc brake calipers.
 
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You could measure the line with some string, pick up a straight piece of brake line at any parts store and a cheap tubing bender. Easier to match up the correct size ends if you pull the line and take it with you.

I would hazard a guess that the dealer would have to order it.

Your other option would be the salvage yard.
 
If you get the stock stuff you won't need a tubing bender if you're careful. It's annealed and easy to bend as long as you take it slowly and don't make bends tight enough to kink. My recollection from doing this on a Jeep or two is that you won't find the exact length in a stock size, so you'll have to get the next longer. You can always find a way to loop, zig-zag it, or otherwise use up the excess.

By the way, if I were describing this situation I would consider that that piece of tubing has already failed!
 
3/16" IIRC-- I've got a wheel to wheel from my last axle you could have, but that'd be a little late (since half your trip would be over when you got here...)
 
Shorty said:
3/16" IIRC-- I've got a wheel to wheel from my last axle you could have, but that'd be a little late (since half your trip would be over when you got here...)
Click to expand...
haha, i appreciate it. but im not trying to work on the heep when im down there. only thought im entertaining is taking the doors off. but that probably wont happen either.

all the years i lived in norfolk, i never seen your jeep in OV.
rweaver138 said:
how much?

i got my brake line at napa, pre flared with the fittings already on
Click to expand...
arent there 2 different styles of flairing? i know i sound ignorant.

but the dealership had it for $30, pre bent.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
but the dealership had it for $30, pre bent.
Click to expand...

That's about a $3 piece at my local NAPA or Advance. Too easy to do yourself. And, judging by what else I've found while doing this, do BOTH sides, and do the wheel cylinders while you're under there. For the $30 bucks the dealer wants, you could do it all. And even if you can't find a size you need, like stated earlier, there are artful ways to absorb the excess. I just keep a roll of 3/16 tubing in the garage, and a decent tubing flare tool. Don't forget the flare wrenches. Buy good ones, as the cheapies sometimes do not fit properly, and round off easily. Just be careful, and work slowly and methodically. Brakes aren't the place to hurry. And, it helps to have a helper, as you'll have to bleed the brakes.
 
Pre-bent I'd be tempted to use because I like things to be perfect, but I did this with a little practice and a pair of brake line bending pliers:


That was without measuring, just held the piece up where it needed to be, put my thumb where the bend needed to be, removed and bent, repeat as needed.

Tools you need -
* brake line bending pliers $10 http://www.harborfreight.com/tube-bending-pliers-95782.html
* double flaring kit and tube cutter $20-30

Materials are cheap, get a preflared section of the next length up and cut it down, that way you get the nuts with it and only have to do one flare. You want 3/16" line with 3/8-24 double invert flare fittings on it.

Oh and put the flare nut back on the tubing before reflaring the end :doh:
Oh also... put it back on THE RIGHT WAY AROUND before reflaring the end :doh::doh:
 
so...
what your suggestion is, is to buy $3 worth of tubing, and $50 worth of tools, so i can spend 4 hours working on it, stressing getting it done to get to work the next day, making it perfect, and then driving 14 hours come the end of the week? and thats assuming everything else gets done as planned.

sometimes people are willing to pay for convenience. thats why we have things ironically called "convenience stores". and in this instance, im one of those people. ive got too much to do between now and friday to be playing with brake lines every day i get home from work. id rather drop it in plug and play and forget it for the time being. i do appreciate the info though, because once the jeep becomes a trail rig and not a DD ill have the freedom to do more things at a slower pace.
 
Which is why most folks on here have more than one vehicle, or have a wife/significant other with a newer or nicer vehicle. By all means, have it professionally serviced if you are stuck, or need to be somewhere in a hurry. To most guys (and the few girls) on here, the XJ is a hobby/obsession, and quite often not their means to an income. I do drive mine daily, but my son and I each have two. Typically, as a vehicle approaches ten years old, the reliability suffers, no matter how well it was cared for. Things like you are finding, rusted leaky brake lines. To most of us, there's a certain satisfaction to fixing something yourself (especially if it works!). But, it sounds like you're in a jam, and can't really spend the time to fix it. You'd be better off just having a small shop fix it, as you'll need help bleeding it anyway. And, if the brakes are safe, you can live another day to work to pay for something else! Time=money. Rarely do we have both!
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
so...
what your suggestion is, is to buy $3 worth of tubing, and $50 worth of tools, so i can spend 4 hours working on it, stressing getting it done to get to work the next day, making it perfect, and then driving 14 hours come the end of the week? and thats assuming everything else gets done as planned.

sometimes people are willing to pay for convenience. thats why we have things ironically called "convenience stores". and in this instance, im one of those people. ive got too much to do between now and friday to be playing with brake lines every day i get home from work. id rather drop it in plug and play and forget it for the time being. i do appreciate the info though, because once the jeep becomes a trail rig and not a DD ill have the freedom to do more things at a slower pace.
Click to expand...
Yep, that's my suggestion. I did it (back when I only had one vehicle), it takes nowhere near 4 hours, more like 1-2 for a single line replacement and bleeding the brakes afterward. If one is going, another is gonna go soon (I speak from experience here, the next one was a week after the first on mine) and by then you are in the black again AND you have learned a new skill and have more tools which will save you more money in the future.

I am somewhat of a long-range type of guy though, I would rather buy tools and go through some pain now than have to deal with it again in the future.

If you really gotta get the thing going ASAP, by all means, spend 30 dollars on the part, just remember that most of the time you'll spend repairing the vehicle is the same either way. In fact it may take you less time to buy the line and tools at NAPA and bend it up yourself than it would to drive to/from the dealership and wait in line at the parts counter, depending on how far away you are. Swapping in the line and bleeding the brakes is going to take the same amount of time either way.

Oh - forgot, you're going to want a 3/8" line/flare wrench of good quality as well, or you WILL round off the flare nuts. It really sucks dealing with rounded off flare nuts... don't ask how I know this.
 
VAhasnoWAVES said:
haha, i appreciate it. but im not trying to work on the heep when im down there. only thought im entertaining is taking the doors off. but that probably wont happen either.

hit me up when you're down if you feel like pulling them-- fairly straight forward


arent there 2 different styles of flairing?

you want inverted flare (double flare) for the rear lines
Click to expand...
 
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