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Front axle opinions.

C

cjsxj87

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Connecticut
Alright so I have a 99 XJ 4.0/aw4/231 Im running a D30/D44 comboe with 4.56 locked front and rear.

I am a bit worried about my front axle being weak, so Ive come up with two options, build a front 44, or Alloys for my D30. If I do the 44 It will prolly cost 800-1500 im thinking with gears locker steering, and axle shafts. But I already have 4.56 gears, a llocker, beefy steering in my D30. So my question here is should I build a front 44 or order alloy shafts, and a truss for my D30?
 
this would depend on how you are with the skinny pedal, if you are easy with it just go with a good set of shafts and if you're rough with it go with the 44 because I'd hate to see you strip the teeth off your ring gear.
 
If you are running up to 35" tires and don't just full throttle into every obstacle, I would truss and alloy shaft the D30. Any bigger than 35's or a heavy right foot and I would go D44.
 
the_weirdo said:
If you are running up to 35" tires and don't just full throttle into every obstacle, I would truss and alloy shaft the D30. Any bigger than 35's or a heavy right foot and I would go D44.
Click to expand...

X2. It would help to know what size tire you are running also.
 
If you you want to keep even more money in your pocket, keep the 30, truss it, and look up the Iron Rock offroad "almost alloy kit". I've never seen these kits in action but i think their a great idea...and really cheep. If my alloy shafts break, and they do break, this is what I will be doing in the future.
 
how's it locked? lunchbox or full case locker?
 
clean4drxj said:
this is acturate and at that point you could've better spent the money on a 60
Click to expand...
a 60 is not for everyone, 37's and under go 44, 37's and larger go 60, a fully polished 60 will cost more then a 44
 
NorcalXJnewbie said:
What's a good 44 to start with ?
Click to expand...


There aren't too many choices. If you want high pinion it has to be from a '70's era Ford truck, but the late 70's models have cast C bushing wedges that make that housing very difficult to use. If you don't mind having a low pinion diff, then a later model waggy D44 will work, the earlier waggy D44's were pass side drop. Otherwise, buy an aftermarket D44 housing.
 
If you can find one , a 1977.5 to 1979 F-250 HP 44 rocks. 3 inch .500 tubes, much stronger housing with more webbing, bigger casting.
 
EvanRigged said:
If you you want to keep even more money in your pocket, keep the 30, truss it, and look up the Iron Rock offroad "almost alloy kit". I've never seen these kits in action but i think their a great idea...and really cheep. If my alloy shafts break, and they do break, this is what I will be doing in the future.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure alloy shafts with full circle clips on the u-joints are stronger than stock Spicers with some scrap steel welded across the yokes.
 
Aren't alloys weaker than stock shafts? They don't twist right?
 
truss and alloys, RCV shafts are gold..
ran lunchbox, 4.56's and no diff cover with small truss and stock shafts on 35's/beadlocks and if youre easy on the skinny pedal it isnt bad at all
 
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