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searched still no light

anewlife84

NAXJA Forum User
Location
chandler, az
ok here is my problem. i got in my xj to drive home from work tonight and pulled on my lights and only my headlights turned on. i didnt have any dash lights. now i know there is alot of what has to do with dash lights aand gauge lights not working but i would like to know what fuse in the fuse block is for the lights? i checked all the fuses but none were popped but maybe its one that is just malfunctioning.
 
Behind the headlight switch (but connected) there is a rather primitive resistor coil (looks like a spring). This sometimes burns through or the ceramic shield cracks and breaks off allowing the resisitor coil to kink.
Most years XJ use the same healdight switch, but the fuse location depends on the year (or model run).
When the resisitor coil breaks it can short, when it kinks it can generate enough heat to melt your switch and blow the fuse.
 
for what its worth ive read quite a few people on here having the headlight switch go bad and doing strange things like your describeing
 
OK...are the other lights...like the lighter and the radio, working when the headlights are on? (I am still looking for diagram info.) How about the clock illumination?

Did you turn the rheostat on the light switch?

Did you check the no. 15 fuse (15 amp)?
 
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I am having this same exact problem. The fuse that went out on mine is the one that says "PARK LPS" and its 15 amps. I put a new one in and it blew as soon as I pulled the headlight switch. I passed a cop at night and I had to put my foot on the brake to make it look like my running lights were on :doh:
I'll take apart my switch and report back.
 
If yours is parking lites blowing fuse...it is probably one of the lights or wiring to it...not the headlight switch....but it would be ok to start there.
 
I tried the switch and the same thing happened. Does this mean I have to take apart my interior and trace all the wires for every light as well as the wiring for the running lights? There must be a better way.
 
Easier method would be to take out the lights and then put them in one at a time. You fill find the problem area to dig into when one of them pops the fuse.
 
You can do like the above post says:

* start by pulling the corner lites..RF LF out one at a time
* then the rears

Or:

*They also make a circuit breaker that you can clip into the fuse location and then you can walk around the car to see which bulb or wire is causing the "short". This is a real short, which is a power circuit gettng grounded. This term is used incorrectly a lot times to describe an open or other situation with electricity. The tool that I have comes with a meter (inductive ammeter) that will indicate the direction of the wiring that you need to follow.
*This way you can isolate which area of the harness you can trace down

Or:
*You can take it to an automotive "sparky" (a British term for an electrician)
 
fuse20application2um5wy.jpg


Not sure what year your talking about but if you look at the diagram you will see at the top of the fuse panel what is called the "CHIME MODULE"this module is what make the ding ding sound.IF THIS MODULE SHORTS OUT.....YOU WILL HAVE... NO TAIL LIGHTS....NO DASH LIGHTS....Sure way to find out is to pull the chime module replace the fuse that popped and see if the lights work.The chime module is a dealer item as far as I know....but is not life threating if you do not replace it...
Like I said not what yr your vehic is but the chime module is there.
DINGS/BUZZES:
Keys in ignition
HD lights on
Seat blt not latched
Door open(on some)


I circled the "CHIME MODULE"
fusepnl2sj0.jpg
 
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Wow several people with similar problems in different stages of diagnosis. I am also having a problem with "blowing" fuses when turning on the park lights. My 89 calls for a 20amp fuse and feeds dash and park lights. I removed every bulb outside of the vehicle and even in the console. I was going to replace the bulbs one at a time until I found the problem but I didn't get a chance. The fuse blew with no bulbs in. I'm gonna check the resistor on the back of the switch. Does anyone know how many ohms the switch should read in the on/off positions? Thanks to everyone who posts possible solutions.
 
I went through this myself....If you look at the pic of the fuse panel.....you will see a RED RECTANGLEIf I'm not mistaken there are no taillights....or parking lights...RIGHT???
The problem is the chime module.....Pull the module....replace the blown fuse....Your lights should all come on.......
I'll betcha if you turn off the lights and put the module back in....pull the light switch......you will pop another fuse.....
Inside the module are 2 strips of metal with windings......the windings WILL heat up like any other winding and over time will short out....Hence the instpnl fuse blows....
Module controls....
Instrument panel lights
Tail/Park lights
Key in
Headlight Delay
Seatbelt Open
Door Open...(I think)
Pulling the chime Module will only affect the "CHIME"mine has been pulled bout
2/3 yrs and have had no problems
Of coures IF ya wanna be picky and get another.....from what I understand IT'S A DEALER ONLY ITEM.....So we all know what that means.....Mucho...$$$$$$$$$$$ Or if they even have one in stock......
 
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Thanks Churky. It wasn't the chime module, although I wish it was. BTW I said that I required a 20amp fuse. I checked closer and saw that it only requires a 10amp (the previous owner had a 20amp installed) I now have the switch out and am going from there. If anyone knows the correct resistance for this switch I would sure appreciate it. Thanx.
 
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