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36" TSLs on modded C8.25?

DreamsOfMoab

NAXJA Forum User
Location
80234
When I say modded, I mean, trussed, geared, locked, and definetly shafted. I really want to run full-widths but I dont want to deal with the hassle, I might even go with an 8.8 as well. Really though, could the C8.25 handle the 36's on a day-to-day basis and some pretty hard crawling?
 
DreamsOfMoab said:
When I say modded, I mean, trussed, geared, locked, and definetly shafted. I really want to run full-widths but I dont want to deal with the hassle, I might even go with an 8.8 as well. Really though, could the C8.25 handle the 36's on a day-to-day basis and some pretty hard crawling?
Go with 8.8 before dumping that money into 8.25. For one you won't be able to gear it past 4.56's and I have a feeling that with 36's you'll be suffering big time if you don't have proper gears!
Then you have to look at the limitations of the 8.25 and ask yourself is the effort of trussing it and getting alloys for it really worth it?
 
Kejtar said:
Go with 8.8 before dumping that money into 8.25. For one you won't be able to gear it past 4.56's and I have a feeling that with 36's you'll be suffering big time if you don't have proper gears!
Then you have to look at the limitations of the 8.25 and ask yourself is the effort of trussing it and getting alloys for it really worth it?

Alright, I was really considering that or the 9" but I didnt want to deal with relocating coil buckets, steering, and all the geometry up front with a 44. How high of gears can I get with the 8.8? I thought there were the same limitations (4.56 gears) for the D30 as well. I didnt think that it was really worth it in the long run, I just wanted a suffecient substitute until I finally cowboy-up to full width.
 
DreamsOfMoab said:
Alright, I was really considering that or the 9" but I didnt want to deal with relocating coil buckets, steering, and all the geometry up front with a 44. How high of gears can I get with the 8.8? I thought there were the same limitations (4.56 gears) for the D30 as well. I didnt think that it was really worth it in the long run, I just wanted a suffecient substitute until I finally cowboy-up to full width.
D30 will take 4.88's
but if you're doing 36's either build the hell out of your 30 or dump same $ into a 44 or something else. Now that I look at what I got, I regret partially not building a 44 up front in the first place but since I built my 30 piece by piece as I was going up in a tire size it would have been hard to justify the cost. If you're jumping from base to big then spend the time and $ and do it right the first time around.
 
I put on full length 9" and 44 off of a 79 bronco and its worth the extra effort. Even with out a locker I can tell a huge difference. It does take a bit of fabrication and tedious measuring but I think the mod was worth it.

but the 8.25 is just as strong as a 8.8 or 44 imo
 
Kejtar said:
D30 will take 4.88's
but if you're doing 36's either build the hell out of your 30 or dump same $ into a 44 or something else. Now that I look at what I got, I regret partially not building a 44 up front in the first place but since I built my 30 piece by piece as I was going up in a tire size it would have been hard to justify the cost. If you're jumping from base to big then spend the time and $ and do it right the first time around.

I was thinking about getting the 36's on the 30, definetly building the hell out of it, but I was worried about the bearings and how quickly they would probably go out since they really werent meant to handle that size of tire. Ford 44's, especially like Zac said, out of 78-79 Broncos, that already have coil buckets and such on them would be nice, but really how much work do i have to do in recalibrating the steering, redoing the suspension and stuff like that? I might as well go 9" if I run a Ford 44 upfront, right?
 
I would, that way the fron't not doin all your work horsein. I took my jeep out, just doin some crazy Ish till I broke the stock d35 I had in it then put in the new axles.

the trac bar placement was the hardest for me

while i was installing it, i did a few things to cheat and add a lil strength
Front 44
First off, i raised the coil buckets an inch and a half to cheat on a lil lift
I also pushed my connectiongs for my long arm out an inch or two so I wasnt overextending the threads on my adjustable long arms
Also put a stronger plate for mounting my shocks, one that won't strip like on a stock 30
I used 2.5" square tubing fro all of it, for a lot of strenght with quarter inch thickness

Ford 9" rear
I moved my shock mounts above the axle, that way they werent dragging on rocks, i also set of a 4 shock system instead of 2, basicly put another set opposite of the stock, so that there was a shock on each side on both ends of the axle
I converted my leaf plates so that I didn't have to use U-bolts, its a lot stronger and keeps everything in line.
I also welded all the mounts up just right to give me a 6* angle for my driveshaft, this way i didn't have to rely on shims or shackles.


Just be sure to measure twice, and weld once, lol.... Kinda sucks if you EF up a measurement, can turn to be a real fox-trot charlie
 
where can you get shafts for the 8.25? Im in the same dillema, only i dont wanna run 36s, Im hopefully driving my heep to moab and i kind of wanna drive it back, I just never wanna break it with 33s. also how do you tell if you have 27 or 29 spline shafts? I have a 95 sport, 4.0 auto
 
You have 27 spline (almost 100% sure)... Also are you sure you have an 8.25? May be a D35 if you have ABS. You can order Moser shafts for the 8.25 also. BUT, you shouldnt break it w/ 33's unless you are really hard on the skinny pedal or jumping it...
 
ColoradoXJ13 said:
Except when the pinion bearing blows up (which happened to me and I have heard of before) or the carrier bearings spin.

Are'nt bearings supposed to spin:spin1:...............sorry I couldnt resist.
 
ZacSquatch said:
I would, that way the fron't not doin all your work horsein. I took my jeep out, just doin some crazy Ish till I broke the stock d35 I had in it then put in the new axles.

the trac bar placement was the hardest for me

while i was installing it, i did a few things to cheat and add a lil strength
Front 44
First off, i raised the coil buckets an inch and a half to cheat on a lil lift
I also pushed my connectiongs for my long arm out an inch or two so I wasnt overextending the threads on my adjustable long arms
Also put a stronger plate for mounting my shocks, one that won't strip like on a stock 30
I used 2.5" square tubing fro all of it, for a lot of strenght with quarter inch thickness

Ford 9" rear
I moved my shock mounts above the axle, that way they werent dragging on rocks, i also set of a 4 shock system instead of 2, basicly put another set opposite of the stock, so that there was a shock on each side on both ends of the axle
I converted my leaf plates so that I didn't have to use U-bolts, its a lot stronger and keeps everything in line.
I also welded all the mounts up just right to give me a 6* angle for my driveshaft, this way i didn't have to rely on shims or shackles.


Just be sure to measure twice, and weld once, lol.... Kinda sucks if you EF up a measurement, can turn to be a real fox-trot charlie

Thanks for all the info, now I just gotta wait around for a set of these or go for some junkyard runs, what years are these most predominant in (with coil buckets)? I'm thinkin' 76-79 F-150s and 78-79 Broncos?
 
ZacSquatch said:
but the 8.25 is just as strong as a 8.8 or 44 imo

LOL, gonna have to disagree, seen many rigs on 37s beat the shiat out of their vehicle with 8.8s and no issues. I know one guy running 40s with no problems.
 
DreamsOfMoab said:
Thanks for all the info, now I just gotta wait around for a set of these or go for some junkyard runs, what years are these most predominant in (with coil buckets)? I'm thinkin' 76-79 F-150s and 78-79 Broncos?


If you don't want raqdius arms look for '76, 77+ have cast wedges.
 
the 70's f-150's and 78-79 broncos used the same front 44's, after 80 sumthin they went that stupid I-beam crap
 
ZachMan said:
If you don't want raqdius arms look for '76, 77+ have cast wedges.

yeah like he said, i ground mine down but if you can, get one earlier, lil less extra work
 
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