Title says it all, I'm in a bind. 2 piece Rear main seal, upper is completely stuck in there. So the tranny is out and I loosened all of the bearing caps, but cannot get the crankshaft to drop for nothin'. Any ideas on how to get this PITA to drop so I can hopefully get the upper portion of the seal out.
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How to lower Crankshaft for doing RMS?
- Thread starter DT|Ac1d
- Start date
JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
The only things holding the crank now are both in the front. Front cover/ front crank seal and timing chain.
I'm gonna try and loosen up the pistons. Since I'm only trying to drop the rear portion of the crank it should cause the front to move up if anything. In which case the timing chain would just get a little bit of slack in it. Or is something you wouldn't recommend doing?
JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
How do you propose to loosen the pistons? You mean the con rod bolts? That's not going to get you anywhere.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
The timing chain and harmonic balancer and seal will hold it in to a certain degree. The thrust bearing may also prevent the crank from pivoting. Use a brass punch to break the top of the RMS free.
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
i always push it out with a brass punch, push up on it from one side with the punch and it should rotate out the other side. you shouldn't have to remove any of the main caps to do the RMS.
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
- Location
- Roanoke VA
I've done so many RMS's on the 4.0's that its become a boring task.
I have never had to drop the crank any to knock out the RMS upper half out. I use a teflon stick to drive them out with, you only need to rotate it around a inch or so then you can grab it with a pair of pliers to pull it the rest of the way out.
I have never had to drop the crank any to knock out the RMS upper half out. I use a teflon stick to drive them out with, you only need to rotate it around a inch or so then you can grab it with a pair of pliers to pull it the rest of the way out.
GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
Not even the REAR main cap?
nope, im a RMS ninja!
Joe is right BTW, I shouldn't post after taking my meds... or is it until ive taken my meds.. lol :wierd:
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
Just pulling your leg, we knew what you meant! :wave:
Well, I've been using a screwdriver that I ground down on my bench grinder. Worked well enough on mine. But my buddies is just plain stuck in there. Would brass really make any difference over what I'm currently using? BTW its a friends rig, I did my RMS last weekend and he wanted to do his since mine went pretty smoothly.....his not so much.
- Location
- Roanoke VA
First, never use steel around the crank and main bearings, one false move and the damage is done. I recommend brass or teflon (something softer than the material that the crank and main is made of)to punch the seal out with.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Should never use a screwdriver... metal's way too hard, you risk damaging the crank or the bearing. Use brass.
ceb0217
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- oregon,corvallis
to drop the crank more you will also need to do some thing with the trans like unbolt the converter or if its a stick unbolt it and pull it back far enough to remove the input shaft from the crank.I also had to drop the crank to get my RMS out. where are you in oregon??
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
He's already got the transmission out - said so in his post
(I considered saying that also)
(I considered saying that also)
Alright finally got the bitch out. Called 15 stores only Napa carried brass punches, but 5/8" was the smallest they had. Picked one up ground it down on the bench grinder. 5 good whacks with the hammer and it worked perfect. Still curious about preping the seal with oil and soap.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Doesn't need to specifically be a punch, for instance I use 3/16" diameter brass rod stock from Home Depot's metal supply section when I need to drive the roll pin out of a d30 carrier. Costs about 4 bucks for a 3 foot long piece, and is more than sufficient :thumbup:
Prepping it with oil is pretty normal and is exactly the environment it'll be in eventually anyways, I've heard molybdenum assembly grease and dish soap also help, don't see how they'd really hurt unless you REALLY went overboard with the soap.
Prepping it with oil is pretty normal and is exactly the environment it'll be in eventually anyways, I've heard molybdenum assembly grease and dish soap also help, don't see how they'd really hurt unless you REALLY went overboard with the soap.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
The only reason I recommended brass was because its softer than the crank shaft and even if you hit the crank shaft you won't damage it. I've use a chopstick in the past with good luck. Anyhow, glad you got out.
What I have done to install the new one is use dish detergent on the out side and oil on the lip. When you are reinstalling it be careful you don't nick the outside of the seal on the block. The last Felpro RMS kit I used has a piece of plastic card that was meant to be inserted between the block and seal when sliding the top part in to prevent seal damage. Don't know if you have that or not.
What I have done to install the new one is use dish detergent on the out side and oil on the lip. When you are reinstalling it be careful you don't nick the outside of the seal on the block. The last Felpro RMS kit I used has a piece of plastic card that was meant to be inserted between the block and seal when sliding the top part in to prevent seal damage. Don't know if you have that or not.
