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01 xj timing?

Kiefer316

Kiefer316

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Littleton, Crawloardo
So I just got the original head redone on this jeep and the timing is now off. I had a buddy come look at the jeep and he stuck his finger in the throttle body and smelt unburnt fuel meaning timing is off. I know very little about engines. I did a little searching and tried something with no luck. If anyone could point me in the right direction I would really appreciate it. I wanna get this thing running so I can sell it.
 
1. Timing is NOT adjustable. It is controlled by the PCM based on input from the crank sensor (CPS/CKP).

2. If the non-distributor that holds the synch sensor for the fuel injection was removed (wouldn't know why for a head job) it might have been put back in a tooth off and that would make the engine run like crap.

3. Was there more dis-assembly than just R&R the head?
 
How do you know the timing is off ? Either it runs properly, or it does not.
 
Timing is likely not the problem.

Did you have a shop do the work? If so, bring it BACK!

Gotta look at "cause and effect" here. Check all the work that was done.
 
when you had the head redone was it planed? if so did you get the right head gasket? accounting for the thickness that was planed? ask the shop how much they planed. check compression or do a leakdown test just to make sure before you go tearing it back out. ;)
 
I did the work I had a shop do the head. It looked as if they did plane the head. But I think they just cleaned it and did a valve job
 
most shops will take.010 right off to get a nice true head. if you didnt get the right gasket for the .010 difference then the valves might not be closing all the way. might be wrong but thats the way i learned how to do it. unless for some reason you pulled the distributor then the timing might be off.
 
Last edited:
If you just removed the head with out touching the distributor then the timing is not the issue. Make sure all the sensors are plugged in correctly and look for any vacuum or exhaust leaks from the manifolds.

Is it throwing any codes?

I don't know what quality of work the machine shop does, but there are two possible things that were done wrong. The head was milled too much and the valves were sunk on the valve job. Both will increase the preload. While a proper valve job on a stock engine shouldn't throw the preload off too much anything is possible. If preload is increased past spec it could hold a valve open.

How did you torque the head bolts down?

What was your reason for getting a valve job? Really, the stock 0331 head should have been scrapped.
 
90 waggy said:
most shops will take.010 right off to get a nice true head. if you didnt get the right gasket for the .010 difference then the valves might not be closing all the way. might be wrong but thats the way i learned how to do it. unless for some reason you pulled the distributor then the timing might be off.
Click to expand...

No distributor--coil packs for 00-01, and the 4.0 doesn't get timing from the synch sensor on the distributor or distribulator-less engines, it is strictly for injection.
 
So I pretty much gotta pull the head again? I honestly do not want to deal with that. I know i shoulda scrapped the 0331 but I am just trying to make profit off this jeep to get another. So i did it as cheaply as possible. I knew i shouldn't have pulled it apart.
 
Hold on. Why was the head off in the first place? Cracked head? Might it have run low on coolant enough to overheat it and stick the piston rings?

Don't just go ripping and tearing, you need to try to methodically diagnose what is in front of you. What are the compression numbers? If poor, what are the leakdown test results?
 
You can try the 'redneck compression test'.. unplug the cps. Hold the throttle wide open. Crank for about 10 seconds and listen closely. The engine should have a steady rhythm as it's cranking. A dead cylinder will be very easy to hear.
 
You never did say what caused you to have the valve job done.

But, you heave a problem in #5, obviously. I would do a leak down test... with numbers that low if you done have a leak down gauge it won't be a problem finding the issue... just pump air in to #5. If you head it leaking from the exhaust, its the exhaust valve, if you hear it leaking from the intake, its the intake valve. If air is coming from the valve cover and/or dipstick its the piston rings.

However, from what I read you are trying to half-ass this and rip someone off just to make a profit.

Nominated...
 
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