trailer hitch nutcerts

[docchaynes]

DC wants 38.50 each for the sill reinforcement plates ( nutcerts or nut strips) that mount the trailer hitch.

Is there another source?

[RichP]

The insert plates are usually about $17 a piece at the dealer, that comes to $34 for a set plus shipping. If you have a 96 or 97 and newer you should already have the passenger side one in there, the tailpipe hanger mounts to it.

[andyr354]

I just made my own from some 1" x 3/16" flat. Slide it in, mark hole locations, drill holes, weld nuts to back side. Simple and cheap.

Andy

[AlohaBra]

If you buy a new hitch, it comes with new bolts which have a wire so you can pull through from the frame rail and then use a nut below.

Maybe you can fabricate this thread wire for your bolt.

[mojpboy]

Whos is "DC"?

[andyr354]

Daimler Chrysler.

Mercedes (Daimler) owns chrysler.

[AlohaBra]

Yeh...they make the Jeep.

[RichP]

If you buy a new hitch, it comes with new bolts which have a wire so you can pull through from the frame rail and then use a nut below.

Maybe you can fabricate this thread wire for your bolt.

They are pretty weak that way, the plate with the nuts welded on spreads the load out the entire length, the drop thru bolts do not.

[ILLXJ]

I just made my own from some 1" x 3/16" flat. Slide it in, mark hole locations, drill holes, weld nuts to back side. Simple and cheap.

Andy
I made a set, took about 20 min. JIM.

[JEONLYEP]

X3 for making them...

DAryl

[docchaynes]

My 96 must be in the transition. Not nut on the passenger side even though the tailpipe hanger in bolted on ( to what, I don't know).

Should I only expect to put in three bolts per side? No way to get in that forward bolt ahead of the frame hump?

[Matthew Currie]

They are pretty weak that way, the plate with the nuts welded on spreads the load out the entire length, the drop thru bolts do not.

Not only that, but if you ever have to take them out, they can be a [sorry, can't use the expressions in my head on a family oriented forum, but think of nasty and despicable acts perpetrated on all the wrong victims, and you'll be close] to get apart again, and if you have to torch/grind/hack them apart, you'll end up having to fish the pieces out of the frame too, assuming you've managed to protect the fuel tank or remove it so you don't blow yourself to kingdom come.

I've removed bodged-in U-haul hitches from the last two Jeeps I got. Nut strips are really a lot better, and if you contemplate ever having to remove the hitch (for example to install a skid plate, etc.) 35 bucks will be seem cheap at the price.

If you're fabricating your own, the hindmost hole will be a problem, but that one at least should be easy enough to put a bolt through. You can cut a big square washer for it to spread the stress.

[ILLXJ]

My 96 must be in the transition. Not nut on the passenger side even though the tailpipe hanger in bolted on ( to what, I don't know).

Should I only expect to put in three bolts per side? No way to get in that forward bolt ahead of the frame hump?

A 96 won't have the pass. side strip. The exhaust hanger has different weld nuts in the frame. JIM.

[XJ_ranger]

am I the only one who thinks its worth $60 to not have to deal with making some part or fishing some nuts thru the frame?

[ILLXJ]

am I the only one who thinks its worth $60 to not have to deal with making some part or fishing some nuts thru the frame?
I don't know about you, but I don't make $180 an hour.:spin1: :doh: Like I said took less than 20 min. to make a set. JIM.

[docchaynes]

A 96 won't have the pass. side strip. The exhaust hanger has different weld nuts in the frame. JIM.

So the exhaust bolts back up through the hitch to the new nutcert? Lookls like it may go from two bolts to one.

[andyr354]

am I the only one who thinks its worth $60 to not have to deal with making some part or fishing some nuts thru the frame?

For me it woudl be $60 and 2.5 hours of driving for the round trip to the nearest dealer. So it was a no brainer taking 30 mins to make my own.

[brak]

am I the only one who thinks its worth $60 to not have to deal with making some part or fishing some nuts thru the frame?

i had to fish the bolts through the frame on my old TJ , and my old honda civic that i put a hitch on, it isnt too difficult.

as for the nutserts. anyone over hear of have both sides on it from the factory ? i bought my XJ used (01 sport), but it has no evidence of the a hitch or hitch wiring. both strips are rivited down. hitch went on fine except for fighting with old rusty nutserts.



:piratefla

[RichP]

am I the only one who thinks its worth $60 to not have to deal with making some part or fishing some nuts thru the frame?

If I had given it more thought and not been in a hurry to get the skid on I would have made a template out of cardboard of the plates and put them away for making future ones but in 98 who woulda known the XJ would be discontinued. Would have used some 1/2 thick steel though as I don't weld so welding nuts on is past my capacity with no welder around. As it is I have a passenger side one that came with the OEM gas tank skid as part of the package but being a 98 it already had the passenger side one in. Even though I lathered up the bolts with anti-seize they still rusted and were a fight to get out after only two years. Ended up chasing the threads when I got rid of the rear hook and put the tomken rear bumper on. I dread having to replace my fuel pump, already know it's going to be a battle that I sure as heck won't want to tackle out in the driveway in the winter.

[andyr354]

the rust is another reason to make your own. I used Grade 8 cad plated hardware that will resist corosion a heck of alot better than the non treated factory nuts.

[docchaynes]

All good advice here. Another NAXJA member has offered me a set. Now it's down to soring wiring and deciding whether to add hook or skid at the same time.

Last night I read 23 pages of threads from search results.

Opinions?

[PhotographerMike]

I recently added a factory hitch and skid to my '96.
The exhaust hanger will need to be changed because there is much less width between the tank and springs with the skid. I had a hook welded to the exhaust and made an upper hanger out of a gate latch and plate bolted in with the skid / hitch. I also used a wide exhaust donut to keep the pipe from swiging and banging.

[docchaynes]

Maybe I should bag the idea of adding the skid at this point.

Sounds like it may be hard enough to just fit the hitch . . .

[ILLXJ]

So the exhaust bolts back up through the hitch to the new nutcert? Lookls like it may go from two bolts to one.
It's been a while but I believe so. JIM.

[ILLXJ]

Maybe I should bag the idea of adding the skid at this point.

Sounds like it may be hard enough to just fit the hitch . . .
Check with this guys. Hitch & skid all in one. JIM.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97787

[Lawn Cher']

I dread having to replace my fuel pump, already know it's going to be a battle that I sure as heck won't want to tackle out in the driveway in the winter.

I shit you not, my fuel pump went out the weekend after I spent several evenings after work removing my hitch and reinstalling it with a skid in place. I cut a hole in the floor of the trunk and made a nice stainless cover plate.

[docchaynes]

My bargain $50 hitch is gnawing at me piece by piece. I priced the M12 - 1.75 x 40 8.8 strength bolts in stainless at $44 for two packs of five. I guess the stainless will make them more likely to hold up to the corrosion and accessable for me to add a skid later.

What about washers since these are not flange head? Wave washers, lock washers? I'd hate to have one of those boogers rattle out.

[ILLXJ]

Just use grade 8 bolts, they will rust in & you will never have to worry about them coming out. JIM.

[docchaynes]

Nature's lock-tite!

[andyr354]

Wish they had not redesigned the gas tanks. On a Renix rig you don't have to drop the tank to get the fuel pump out, so you are saying you do on a 91+ rig? or is it just 97+?

[gmars]

Reminds me that it's going to be at least a weekend in dropping my skid, hitch and tank to get my farting fuel pump/filter/reg out this winter. AARGH! Why Chrysler, why? they're scaring me/us out of every owning a Mopar ever again, let alone going through the expensive babysitting of owning an XJ or Jeep EVER AGAIN. Engineering and maintenance shouldn't be such an elusive concept to save $ during (re)design.

[Blaine B.]

$38.00 is less than your favorite bourbon......deal with it.

[docchaynes]

Heh, true . . . but Mopar wanted that for each side and that's two bottles. Couldn't give up that second bottle , I think I'll need a drink by the time I get them installed.

One of the forum members hooked me up. I should have asked him if he'd trade for some Elijah Craig.

[RichP]

All good advice here. Another NAXJA member has offered me a set. Now it's down to soring wiring and deciding whether to add hook or skid at the same time.

Last night I read 23 pages of threads from search results.

Opinions?

Reading can't hurt :D

It's easier to to every thing at once IMO. Use plenty of anti-seize.

[docchaynes]

I got some grade 8.8 bolts and German wave washers and slathered them down with copper anti-seize. I'm waiting for the urethane bushings to start the spring install. I thought I read somewhere to avoid the Crown's but that's what came in the mail. Got to be better than my clapped out stockers.

eTrailer screwed up my wiring order so I sent their stuff back hoping to find a way to salvage the chopped 7-pin on the Mopar junk-yard hitch.

I'll remove the sway bar from the rear during the spring install.

I sourced some Monroe Reflex rear shocks. Will they still work if I do a 2" lift later?

And , does anyone have a stock gas tank skid they would llike to part with?

[Zoro]

Yeh...they make the Jeep.
No, they KILLED the Jeep

[docchaynes]

Yeah, I thought this new JK would be the works. But, it's so long, wide and heavy. It's a half ton heavier than my XJ.