I searched for this on the Modified Tech Discussion and couldn't find an answer. 1995 Cherokee Sport, 5" lift and 33" tires. I'm going through wheel bearings every 6 months, off roading a little bit in between. I can't figure out why they keep getting junked so quickly. Any thoughts? Where can I get stronger ones, or do i need to upgrade to a whole new front axle?
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D30 wheel bearings
- Thread starter pwa2
- Start date
TRAILREADYXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
Try Timken bearings and make sure they are properly torqued.
andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
Get them from chrysler. Alot of the parts house replacements are cheap and not the best quality.
I have not bought a new one in quite a while though. I just goto the salvage yard and pull them with the axleshafts to get spares for both.
I have not bought a new one in quite a while though. I just goto the salvage yard and pull them with the axleshafts to get spares for both.
andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
pwa2 said:
IMHO, no. Switch to a D44 instead.
- Location
- Hartsville, South Carolina
Agreed, I did a front 44 conversion for clase to that.andyr354 said:
awspence
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salisbury, North Carolina or NCSU
sounds to me like you arent torquing them tight enough
the torque you apply to the hub nut is critical for long bearing life
the torque you apply to the hub nut is critical for long bearing life
TRAILREADYXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Raleigh NC
awspence said:
X2... I have also seen them wear down due to over torquing. Proper torque is critical.
andyr354
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Central KS
The FSM states 175 ftlbs for them.
Hate to hijack, but do you think used units need to be torqued to the same amount? Just seems like that nut is never that tough to break loose when I take a used unit appart even if the bearing is good.
I always thought the bearing bottomed out on itself inside and the torque was not super critical as long as it was good and snug.
Hate to hijack, but do you think used units need to be torqued to the same amount? Just seems like that nut is never that tough to break loose when I take a used unit appart even if the bearing is good.
I always thought the bearing bottomed out on itself inside and the torque was not super critical as long as it was good and snug.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
andyr354 said:
Not so. Wheel bearings tend to require a certian amount of "preload" (provided by the stub shaft nut) in order to handle the load of running the wheel with the vehicle weight as a load. Not enough preload? Bearings fail. Too much preload? Bearings fail (but a bit slower...)
I've had to do this a couple of times, and you want to torque the retaining screws (from the backside) to 75 pound-feet. The stub shaft nut gets torque to 175 pound-feet, but you can apply never-seez to the threads, and then torque to 87 pound-feet (which works neatly - I did it on my 88 about five years ago - and is easier to hit...) You essentially use the never-seez as a "torque doubler" - and the significant reduction in friction makes the torquing process a bit more accurate anyhow.
Get Timken bearings - I think that's what the OEM units I've pulled out of three XJ's were (two failing at ~250kMiles, one pulled apart upon removal at ~180kMiles) - so that's what I put back in. Besides, I've been using Timken bearings for a number of years with good results. IMO, they're worth the $80 each I end up paying at the local...
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
87manche said:
Hell, everyone else around here pays at least $95.
Advantages of dealing with a small shop - I've been dealing with the same small shop for 10 years, I send them a lot of business, I've turned them on to a few new suppliers, and I therefore get jobber.
I've been dealing with the same dealer parts department as well for about 10 years - so I get jobber there, and I've been able to borrow their paper catalogues so I can copy them...
Stick with the smaller shops, it's reallly worth it! You might pay some more for some parts, but you'll be dealing with a better calibre of parts guy, and you'll probably note your prices getting better. I don't deal with a major chain except for fluids and such - since I can't get better deals on those from the local (which already tries to sell the stuff to me for cost. Problem is, they don't deal in the same volume as the majors - so retail elsewhere is better than cost there. That's made up for on other stuff, and they know what I've been up to...)
5-90
hah, I've done 2K worth of business with the local parts store in the last 8 months, I can't even get a discount. After my pinion bearing debacle they'll get none of my business.
I wish I could find a local parts place in this town tat didn't suck. But the Napa is outrageoues, and the cahin stores are, well, chain stores.
I wish I could find a local parts place in this town tat didn't suck. But the Napa is outrageoues, and the cahin stores are, well, chain stores.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
87manche said:
Look for a "mom-and-pop" - the store I deal with is actually two stores owned by the same guy. He has the advantage of hiring unblananced people to work the counter (it's a plus) and I'm the guy they use to break in the new kids. Since I used to work behind the counter myself, I have fun with these kids...
As far as fasteners, find a good tractor store (when I lived in IN, I spent a LOT of time at Quality Farm & Fleet!) since they've got just about the best stuff. Brass and stainless can usually be had at marina shops, but the steel stuff at tractor/farm stores can't be beat (since it's mostly made to go in Diesels, which requires good gear!)
I remember spending time at the NAPA back there as well, and doing fairly well. I guess since they've started hiring "parts droids" out here in CA, tho, they're getting infected everywhere. Damn...
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
87manche said:
Oh. If you've got a Fastenal, keep going there! I've got one locally to me as well (since I don't have any farm stores handy, it's a good replacement) that has gotten to know me. No discounts there, but their prices aren't bad, and they do carry a decent selection of "exotics" (anything other than standard SAE5, SAE8, and ASTM grades.)
If I need anything really exotic, I either redesign the project or give Small Parts, Inc. a call (really exotic, like titanium, ceramic, and like that...)
5-90
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
87manche said:
Check out my website - there's a "recommended reading" list that I'm working on. You'd probably find it interesting...
5-90
Well the first hub replacement I had done at a small shop. The second set i just got was from a different garage...a franchise. Anyway, I have no idea what torque either one uses, but will 4wheeling on rocks ruin my bearings? I'm at the point where my XJ is such a money pit I have to sell it...I mean what's the point of owning a sick off roading XJ if you can't afford to off road with it?!
xrayjeeper83
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jax, FL
Not to hijack but how can I tell if my bearings are bad?
Andrew
Andrew
