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Help me paint the heep ?

mojojojo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Gresham, Oregon
If all goes well the jeep and exo-cage should be ready for paint this weekend !

Got lots of prep work to do and since you just cant trust the weather man these days i figure i'd reach out to my NAXJA bruthas for a hand !

Assuming it really is done and ready to roll by saturday, i could use a hand with some sticker scraping, a lil sanding, and some light grinding. Taping and prep work and then some primer and paint ! my goal is to prep and light prime the body and hopefully paint on Saturday. Then hit the cage on Sunday.

No offence to anyone, but i'd prefer 1-2 guys that have some experience doing a rattle can paint job, rather than 5-6 guys who don't, bumping into each other etc...

Post up if yur free and interested in helping out and i'll PM you details.

Thanks !



So close to being done I can hardly stand it ! :shiver:
 
I'd love to lend a hand - going to have to see if I can talk the wife into letting me go for the weekend and drive down there. Think it's something like 7-8 hours from Whidbey.

And I know how to rattle-can, it's part of my job actually, heh. No shit, been to professional paint school which involves painting with piss-cans.
Did my hatch on the last XJ I had after swapping it out... Smashed the original against a tree (which is when I found out they are fiberglass on that bodystyle). Replacement was blue, it clashed horribly. Sanding and three cans of spray later (one primer, one flat, one clear)...
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Rod,
I can't be down there for the weekend but I can offer a tool for removing the stickers easily and quickly. I could bring it next week (probably not the timing you want) or if JeeperMatt comes down maybe he could pick it up on the way down?

I also have a chemical that I can donate to help with the sticker removal.

Rattle can jobs can turn out ok if you know what you are doing, the prep is good and is done well.
Are you sure you want to rattle can the cage? If I were you I would use POR 15 and brush the cage. I find it holds up much better to the abuse it will see than any rattle can stuff and it is much easier to touch up later. I wouldn't use it on the body but on the cage I would use it. If you want more ideas on this let me know, I have re-painted my halo several times with different paints.

Let me know if you need the tools.

Michael
 
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Think it's something like 7-8 hours from Whidbey.

I usually assume about 4 hours drive for me to Portland and it takes me about 1 hr to get to Oak Harbor from here for me.

5 Hrs should be a reasonable estimate without Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia commute traffic.

Michael
 
I've got some exp, Let me know if you could use a hand. im close to you and available.
 
I've got a magic eraser for the stickers and can get it to you as early as today. I'd love to help. shoot me a pm or I can pm you when I get off work.
 
Matt - thats a hell of a drive man, i'm not expecting anyone to drive that far just to help out. I think There are enough local guys willing and able, but i will deff keep you in mind if it looks like i need the extra help. (would be nice to have a "pro piss-canner") lol

Michael - i think ive got enough tools and ive got a decent size can of acetone already. if Matt ends up coming down I certainly wouldnt turn down whatever u got though.

Scott and Darren - You gotz mail !

Oh and Michael... you gotz mail too
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Thanks guys !
 
The weekend is looking pretty good right now.

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Let me know if you need another hand. Are you going to paint the body one color, and the tube work another?

Thats why i am panicing about getting it done. looks like a small but perfect weather window for saturday and sunday.

As far as color goes, yes, deffinately black for the cage and i am still torn between a dark blue metalic or a charcoal metalic for the body. The blue i hope will be close to the factory color. the charcoal i have used before, infact thats what i used for the base / background on the hood. Guess i need to decide soon so i an go shopping :confused1

PM inbound "D"
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Hey Mojo I Rattled my Jeep a couple times now. However Whenever I paint anything it rains. Doesn't matter what the weather man says it rains. :(

I have stuff to do on Saturday, but if you need a hand on Sunday let me know
 
i have a gun... i cant belive you did all that work and now your thinkng or rattle canning it; just dont seem right. theres other options if your interested " dono how chep your paint is."
id offer my help rod but i dont think ill be able to move much come sat/sun. too bad there was just a little more time we, could pull someting phat off.
id say stay with the blue. :) hope it turns out good. looks awsome already.

GL man and let me know if you need any advice.
Bronze.
 
I already have plans but could give you advise on removing the stickers. If you want them to come off really easy and not leave adhesive use a heat gun. Obviously don't let the stickers or the body get to hot but warm up the stickers a bit and they will peal right off usually with no residue left over. I memoved all the window tint out of my Jeep and this method, left absolutely no adhesive behind!

Also with painting make sure you do a good job with prep work and your paint will look good. I would wet sand the whole Jeep, make sure you clean it good and and use good quality tape and real overspray paper. Paint will go though newspaper.

Have fun.
 
id be willing to help but i got work saturday and a double header softball game on sunday. sorry man.
 
thanks for all the advice guys. I've done a cpl rattle jobs before, but still will take all the advice i can get.

So i am thinking of doing a dark grey or black metallic base, and then lightly dusting that with a dark blue metallic. like literally about 2 feet back and just barely hitting it with the blue. Kind of going for a pearl effect....

Any advice on that ? thoughts ? is there a better way to achieve this effect ?

I am not super concerned about quality since the rig is already dented up really bad. i'll do some prep work, but prob wont be wet sanding and all that.
 
...So i am thinking of doing a dark grey or black metallic base, and then lightly dusting that with a dark blue metallic. like literally about 2 feet back and just barely hitting it with the blue. Kind of going for a pearl effect...

...Any advice on that ? thoughts ? is there a better way to achieve this effect ?
I'd recommend using flat colors since they don't run that easily. Gloss paints run very easily, so it takes longer to get a good coat and finish since you have to paint in lighter coats. With flat, you can spray a good, thick coat once, touch up with a second maybe 10 minutes later. Then you spray some clear (also available in piss-can) to get the shine and finish.
Trying to get a pearl effect with spray-cans is kinda difficult just due to the nature. The way you'd like to do it is going to end up looking like overspray and it's difficult to get even coverage as the cloud is going to disperse and settle differently, especially spraying outside, even in a slight breeze. However, try spraying maybe another 6-10 inches farther back then the base coat. Also, if you feel like putting the time into it - lay down the base coat, then clear it when it's dry enough. 'Dust' with your 'pearl' color, then clear over that as well. This way the base coat has a shine to it, and the pearl (which is basically going to be intentional overspray) will have a shine to it as well. Should provide some depth and the shine desired, however it's not going to pop in certain light and angles like a true pearl paint job will. Spray paint isn't setup to refract light differently at different angles, so it's going to look the same from any angle, in any light. You're more than likely going to end up with a good paint job that looks like it had overspray from another project.
However, going back to paint type - if you pick the colors you want in a gloss metallic, you should get a better effect than flat. Or base coat in flat, clear it, then dust your pearl in a glossy metallic. The light will reflect differently and shine and sparkle more than a flat with clear. Honestly, this is the way I'd do it - with the flat base cleared then dusted in a gloss metallic, also cleared.

mojojojo said:
I am not super concerned about quality since the rig is already dented up really bad. i'll do some prep work, but prob wont be wet sanding and all that.
If it rains, you can wet sand with a fine grit sandpaper or emory cloth. Just pull the rig out, let it rain on it, and sand as it's raining... lol.

Even dented up, you can still get a decent paintjob. As previously stated, a good paint job is all in the prep work. Honestly all you should have to do is scuff-sand the entire rig, wipe clean with a lint-free-ish cloth, DON'T spray alcohol to clean it up - some alcohols leave a residue that'll lead to the paint cracking as it sets up. Scuff-sand, give it a good, proper, even coat of primer. Let the primer set up, wipe again with similar cloth, then spray light coats of the base. Don't start spraying pointing at the area - you want to use smooth, sweeping motions. Start spraying before the area, sweep across it, stop spraying past the other side. Start spraying again before the area, sweep back across, stop once past. Repeat, repeat, repeat until your panel is covered. Be sure to shake the can every couple passes to keep things mixed and agitated properly. If you use a flat, you can get a decent first coat on that'll set-up quickly, allowing you to re-coat in about 10-15 minutes.
 
Good stuff ! thank you !

So when u say you'd do it "with the flat base cleared then dusted in a gloss metallic, also cleared."

would u just use a flat black base ? or use a flat metallic base ?

I think ive got some flat, gloss, and maybe even some metallic out in the garage. Maybe ill do a lil experimenting today and see how it looks. When you mentioned it might end up looking like over spray, it makes me nervous. Ive had that effect before (unintentional) from painting wheel wells and touching up sliders etc... YUCK !
 
Rod, how is the prep going to go? start off the day taping/papering stuff. remove decals, and sand? do you plan to primer aswell? I've learned the best results start with the prep work. this is one area i feel i'll be the most help
 
Forgot to ask earlier if we're on the same page when it comes to the pearl part of things... I've heard people refer to metallic as pearl, etc.. when they're two very different finishes. Technically pearl is an additive in the clear coat that gives it a multi-color appearance, so when light hits it, or when viewed from a different angle, it appears to change colors and tints somewhat.

If you want some sparkle to the base coat that metallic provides, then by all means use it! If you don't care if the base is sparkly, if you're ok with a monochromatic appearance that's just color, so sparkle, then paint it in solid (no metallic, etc - just the color). The clear spray will provide the shine and sheen, making it look like gloss. Basecoating in gloss THEN clearing over it doesn't really gain anything other than some extra layers of protection, so personally I don't waste time trying to get a good coat with a gloss base coat when the same look can be achieved much easier via flat w/ clear.
In the end, what you wish to achieve is up to you. Personally I'm not one much for metallic spray and stuff, especially on a trail rig. Flat makes for much easier touch-ups. Granted the clear means you've got a bit more sanding made out for you, however it's really not that much work.
That also ties into it a bit - how you wheel and how often you bang off of things. For example, I painted my sliders a flat black, the cheapest available from Autozone. Reason being - they see rocks. A lot. I see no point in spraying on bedliner or some glossy finish then having it come off the next time I hit the trails. With this in mind, consider how you 'wheel and that'll help determine what the ideal way to paint your rig is. Seeing as how you said your rig is dented up and stuff already, sanding and stuff for touch-ups will be more labor intensive since you can't block-sand it due to surface imperfections.

AAaaannnyyyhow, see what kind of results you can get with what you have, lemme know if you have any questions (feel free to PM some pics and stuff if you'd like) and I'll see what I can do :)

**Edit - I'm sure you're trying to get this done on a budget, but if you can find some acrylic polyurethane in clear or the colors you want, that'd be pretty badass. It does strongly recommend (read - require) a respirator of some sort due to its chemical composition. It's what we use to paint our planes, and it holds up pretty damn well considering what hits it (bugs, rocks, rain, birds...) at a few hundred mph. It also dries with a nice gloss to it, eliminating the clear coat step. Just get some good prep work done, good coat of primer, and poly the thing. Couple coats of poly with proper step-up time between and it'll be good to go.
 
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