TOTM: Unibody Stiffening

[crazyjim]

Ok boys and girls, this is it, the first Thread Of The Month for the Jeepspeed section, and I'm going to start with what I think is one of the most important topics you can possibly cover for the XJ... UNIBODY STIFFENING. We all know too well how destroyed our bodies become over time, let's see how you all remedy that!

[ratboy93]

well i havent had to deal with this plague...YET its only a matter of time before you have to repair the body strengthened or not. i have heard of people laying a plate over a tear in the body but the strength has already been affected. but i do not have any picture proof of plate work to fix tears

[xcm]

heres my front thread, very basic, run of the mill front frame stiffening http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016379

if i was going to do my frame stiffeners again, today. i'd go with ruffstuff again, but i would fab up a way to tie in the stock seat bolts into the frame stiffeners, the outside studs pretty much get in the way, so tieing em in would be allmost effortless.

[crazyjim]

Post the pictures and info in this thread

[xcm]

=\ thats gonna get messy quick, but ok! i'll pick a couple pics to quote

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/637/dscn0114o.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/i/dscn0114o.jpg/)

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/9264/dscn0113s.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/dscn0113s.jpg/)
removed the front axle, loosened brake lines, removed front fender support, cleaned paint,
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2259/dscn0115p.th.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/dscn0115p.jpg/)
started on the passenger side, it's easier, there is bending involved, and lets just say im glad i didnt need the upper control arm bolt hole , as it didnt line up.
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2825/dscn0108i.th.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/dscn0108i.jpg/)

i started up front, and moved back, bending as i went, as pictured. it came out nicely bent.
http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/7766/dscn0112z.th.jpg (http://img682.imageshack.us/i/dscn0112z.jpg/)
on drivers side, had to notch around a tnt trackbar bracket,
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1599/dscn0118z.th.jpg (http://img7.imageshack.us/i/dscn0118z.jpg/)




in anticipation of new tube bumpers, and a general 'while the welders out' we plated up the front.
http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/1482/dscn0122n.th.jpg (http://img37.imageshack.us/i/dscn0122n.jpg/)



http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6647/dscn0123a.th.jpg (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/dscn0123a.jpg/)
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/4121/dscn0121.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/dscn0121.jpg/)
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3088/dscn0123x.th.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/dscn0123x.jpg/)


http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5990/dscn0125o.th.jpg (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/dscn0125o.jpg/)
had to make up something to replace the steering spacer thingy...
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7160/dscn0128.th.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/dscn0128.jpg/)

[dgrigorenko]

here is the centers:

so basically i was getting tired of all the creaking that my jeep was doing even when going around corners, soooooo i went ahead and shelled out the clams (not that many for what you get), and got stiffeners from BRIANHO13 on www.hdoffroadengineering.com (http://www.hdoffroadengineering.com/). here is what showed up:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080768.jpg

at first glance i was pretty happy with what i got, although i was surprised at how light they were, but i suppose that could be because of the bazillion plug weld holes. these are made of 10ga sheet metal, which is slightly thicker than 1/8"(11GA), and slightly thinner than 3/16, which to me was a pretty good compromise of weight and strength.

one of the first things i had to do was modify where they had the crossmember bolt slots due to me having the TNT long arm kit:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080770.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080771.jpg

next i had to start taking apart some of the crossmember mounting points, and cut off the crush sleeves to fit. i also decided not to completely drop the crossmember, instead i would just lower it enough to slide the stiffeners in

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080772.jpg

next came the really dirty part: cleaning off the rubber undercoating it went fairly quickly with an angle grinder and wire brush, but what id didnt take off was the paint, which i ended up being happy about. I decided that in order to keep some sort of protection from the elements i would only take off paint where i needed to, and not off the whole rail. i mocked up the stiffeners and with a sharpie i marked where all the plug welds were going to go, and only ground off where i needed to.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080774.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080776.jpg

I also decided to use some of Krylon's "weld through" primer to prime the backside of my stiffeners. I used this not because i was planning on welding through it, but because it doesnt burn... this way there is still some weather protection, but still no paint where the welding is going to go...

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080777.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080778.jpg

Next came the mounting up... i only had 2 large C-clamps and a hydraulic floor jack, so i started at the front, would clamp and jack, spot weld, and then move back. this method seemed to work pretty well with getting things tight.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4080779.jpg

then there was the welding.... lots and lots of welding... and moving from side to side and front to back to make sure nothing got too hot.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4090780.jpg

let me tell you, there are a lot of plug welds on this thing....... IMO its kinda excessive, and something like the ones ruffstuff has is probably more than sufficient.

i then ground things down to smooth them out

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4090781.jpg

Then i used some primer that i have heard good things about, this is the first time i have used it, so i guess i will find out how good it really is. Rustoleum self etching primer... first i cleaned it up with some acetone to make sure everything was squeaky clean, then coated it up. it had great coverage in my opinion so i am happy with it at this point.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4100793.jpg

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k151/dgrigorenko/P4100794.jpg

I dont have any pics of it with final black paint on it, but i think we get the idea.


Overall thoughts on this install: not that hard, just some good ol grunt work. it took me about 3 evenings to complete, so thats not too bad either. I took it for a test drive and was VERY happy with the results. no more creaking when i drive over a man hole... i even took it up on a rock to flex it, and it barely made noise... this is a vast improvement from what it was. even just the feel on road driving is improved, it just feels much more solid than it was. now a couple of things to consider is that i do have the TNT belly skid tying these together which no doubt helps. I also have a very solid rear bumper, front bumper and the track bar brace, so there are a lot of things tying frame rails to frame rails. i think my next item on the list is plating from the back of these stiffeners to the bumper, and same on the front. i have not decided if i want to get the TMR ones or just make my own...

Final Note: i would like to thank NAXJA as a whole, and all the writups that i have read to get my rig to where it is now, and doing it right... i am glad that i can give a little bit back.

G

[xcm]

Final Note: i would like to thank NAXJA as a whole, and all the writups that i have read to get my rig to where it is now, and doing it right... i am glad that i can give a little bit back.

G


x2.
i look forward to larrythedog's contributions here, his front frame/engine bay stiffenening came out AWESOME, and i will be copying him when its time to do the front of mine!

[VAhasnoWAVES]

well i havent had to deal with this plague...YET its only a matter of time before you have to repair the body strengthened or not. i have heard of people laying a plate over a tear in the body but the strength has already been affected. but i do not have any picture proof of plate work to fix tears



thats not fixing, thats patching.

even with mild wheeling i feel my jeep twisting up when i go out. thats why i plan to add stiffeners BEFORE i even get started up with the go fast stuff. my unibody is strait and id like to keep it that way. i think as far as structural integrity goes, stiffeners are a essential for going fast... i say good first thread jim. ill be keeping up with this one to see if i can get any good idea. :)

[crazyjim]

I did my stiffening in 3 stages;

1. TNT / Treks 3/16" plate stiffeners
2. TMR 1/8" front frame plates
3. T&J / Currie Tubular frame stiffeners

I think the combination of the 3 is what made such a difference. I noticed a different right away when I did the TNT stiffeners, my dash wouldn't crack anymore going over bumps, or through driveways. But about a week later the creeks and cracks came back, this is when I decided to go all the way.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/DSCF3411.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/DSCF3409.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/DSCF3415.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/TMR%20Frame%20Plates/IMG_0589.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/TMR%20Frame%20Plates/IMG_0592.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/TMR%20Frame%20Plates/IMG_0610.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/IMG_0614.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/IMG_0617.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/IMG_0630.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/IMG_0646.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg319/digitalc0nvict/IMG_0643.jpg

[xcm]

finnally pics of jim working! is that your shop jim?
and, is that a glasspack?

[crazyjim]

finnally pics of jim working! is that your shop jim?
and, is that a glasspack?
Haha those are old, and no that's my buddies shop where the Jeep lives until she's done.

[grandrunner]

heres some of my zj. these are the tnt frame stiffeners. i drilled the holes in.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/dunerocker/stiff2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/dunerocker/DSC00047.jpg

and undercoated them
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b223/dunerocker/DSC00049.jpg

and still need to do front and rear plating.

[Ryan93]

I really like how the T&Js "tie" the front and rear suspension together

[ratboy93]

XCM!!!
dude i totally met you one morning in your driveway when i was working across the street from your house.. ill pm you

[DieselSJ]

Some from our racer -

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild006Medium.jpg

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild005Medium.jpg

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild004Medium.jpg

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/dimpledies.jpg

Note that this isn't all that we did. We plated the frame for basically the entire length of the car. The tube stiffener ties the front and rear suspension points together AND also ties bottom of all the cage hoops.

From there, we have a lot of sections in the car where we tied the cage into the body. You can see them along the front fender and along the a-pillar. We have plates like that all over the car.

[tcm glx]

1. TNT / Treks 3/16" plate stiffeners
2. TMR 1/8" front frame plates
3. T&J / Currie Tubular frame stiffeners

I will tell you guys right now... Jim is absolutely right on this subject, and this is the way to go!! Makes a huge difference in performance.

I will also tell you, I have seen many people say " i do not need them yet "..... I would HIGHLY HIGHLY suggest you do this to your XJs as early in the build as you can, it will save you later from having to repair, and replace things.....

Do it first, and save the headaches later!

[Larrythedog]

Note that this isn't all that we did. We plated the frame for basically the entire length of the car. The tube stiffener ties the front and rear suspension points together AND also ties bottom of all the cage hoops.

From there, we have a lot of sections in the car where we tied the cage into the body. You can see them along the front fender and along the a-pillar. We have plates like that all over the car.

I think this is probably the most important thing you could can do. While the frame plating in key points is critcal, i feel tying the cage to the body everywhere you can will give you the most rigidity possible.

[Jaynen]

So to what extent can you do those three things without them being tied to a cage? Do they interfere with any other parts you might be putting on so you need to plan for that?

[crazyjim]

I think this is probably the most important thing you could can do. While the frame plating in key points is critcal, i feel tying the cage to the body everywhere you can will give you the most rigidity possible.

I completely agree here. I'll have plenty of plating once my cage gets finished as well.

So to what extent can you do those three things without them being tied to a cage? Do they interfere with any other parts you might be putting on so you need to plan for that?

If you're talking about mine, it's hindered me a bit but nothing that can't be overcome. It prevents most crossmember's from most long arm kits from just being "bolt on". Bit honestly I'm past the point of bolt on items, and will be building my own arm mounts. Also, I'm still fighting with ideas on where to tie in my cage, there's a good chance my T&J stiffeners will be coming off temporarily.

[FiveNdime]

I found this thread because today it was evident that I need to really do something about the twisting. I bet we have all been on the trail and had to open the back hatch and were unable to get it latched again till we got to flatter ground, or just smashed it closed. Today I parked one tire up on a curb stop at the store and when I went to shut the groceries in the back the hatch hit my rear bumper (aftermarket bumper). I really thought to myself that NO, this has to be taken care of NOW, especially since I wheel it quite often. I will be searching and posting up what I will do in the future for my strengthening strategy. This thread has been very helpful thus far.

[DieselSJ]

Note that all this frame stiffening and plating is great, but our old un-plated car never cracked or broke a rail. IMHO, cage and overall structure is more important than these frame plates. The biggest problem area is the spring bucket. That was a constant battle of realigning the bump cans because the pockets kept deforming. And if you are already cracking, there is very little you can do to save it.

No, I'm not pulling on it - that is the extent of the deformation.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild015Medium.jpg

Look at the back side of the bucket -
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild016Medium.jpg

Cracks, failing spot welds, entire fenderwell structure was failing.
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild017Medium.jpg

A couple of the trans tunnel - she was a twistin and a tweakin...
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild019Medium.jpg
http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild023Medium.jpg

[GrimmJeeper]

my buddy told me on saturday that following my XJ down the freeway was like watching a stripper, the ass was shaking the whole time :roflmao:

all the spotwelds around my hatch are pulled out, and i've got cracks all over the place in the back end. i'll be junking this shell and plating and caging the new one before i start beating on it this time, as was mentioned earlier once they start you will just be chasing them and making repairs constantly.

I'd like to add to this topic plating and re-enforcing the leaf spring pockets, mostly in the front but in the rear as well. this area takes a lot of abuse, and is only supported by the floor pan and the thin cross brace that runs under the front of the rear seat. Something like Poly Performance's leaf spring mounts (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-Jeep-XJ-Rear-Spring-Hanger-Bracket-p-20685.html), or what the Fat City boys did on Stobaugh's build thread (http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244877550&postcount=33), would be a good idea.

[xcm]

also, dont XXXX with the area near the rear, where people commonly 'tuck n fold' that was a big mistake for me, IMHO. same with rear fender cutouts.

[kastein]

also, dont XXXX with the area near the rear, where people commonly 'tuck n fold' that was a big mistake for me, IMHO. same with rear fender cutouts.
X2, if you are going to cut out the rear fenders, do a good job welding them back together with something structural. The best thread I've seen on this subject was StumpXJ's - http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1011630

[srmitchell]

I am running the hd offroad stiffeners.

These along with a rigidco front bumper, the jeep feels solid.

Like Jim said, once mine were welded, it was quiet, but after one wheelin trip, all the noises were back.

Up next are the front and rear stiffeners.

Is there a way to setup those t&j tube stiffeners for people with no lca mounts? (Longarms.)

[DieselSJ]

I'd like to add to this topic plating and re-enforcing the leaf spring pockets, mostly in the front but in the rear as well. this area takes a lot of abuse, and is only supported by the floor pan and the thin cross brace that runs under the front of the rear seat. Something like Poly Performance's leaf spring mounts (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-Jeep-XJ-Rear-Spring-Hanger-Bracket-p-20685.html), or what the Fat City boys did on Stobaugh's build thread (http://naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244877550&postcount=33), would be a good idea.

Our front -

http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad105/js1717/Racecarbuild003Medium.jpg

It was not enough. Stuff moved around at the Mint. There is more being done to this area now to reinforce it.

LOL, this was a pic from the build. You know it is a Jeep when it leaks before you even get it running...

[EricsXJ]

Mine's not built for JeepSpeed but frame stiffening is a good idea no matter what type of wheeling you do. Similar to a lot of the previous posters here's what I did:

- T&T 3/16" frame stiffeners
- T&T bellypan
- TMR front frame plates
- 2x6 x 3/16" rockers also tied into frame rail
- cage tied into everything

- still have rear frame sections left to do

pics:

http://www.ericsxj.com/unibody/3976.jpg

http://www.ericsxj.com/unibody/4134.jpg

http://www.ericsxj.com/unibody/4325.jpg

http://www.ericsxj.com/unibody/4349.jpg

http://ericsxj.com/cage/5449.jpg

b-pillar tie-in:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/5245.jpg

rear / interior:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/5554.jpg

front:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/5723.jpg

front unibody tie-ins:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/5730.jpg

http://ericsxj.com/cage/5741.jpg

the cage extends through the roof also:
http://ericsxj.com/cage/5853.jpg

Each step of the way I noticed improvements in how stiff the unibody was becoming. The most noticeable improvements I'd say were the initial T&T stiffeners and the cage, but it all helps in overall stiffness.

[xcm]

http://www.ericsxj.com/unibody/4325.jpg


very nice!

[Starboard M]

I made my own TMR knock offs for the front of my Jeep. Minus drilling all those holes, it was a pretty easy fab project.

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=970131&highlight=homemade+frame+stiffeners

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/StarboardM/Stiffeners/Picture124-1.jpg

[J Money]

Here are the Pirate Lab Chromoly Frame stiffeners. They extend below the LCA mounts and also brace the steering box. There is TONS of prep work involved, but they turned out really good.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/dabgpimp/IMG_3180.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n270/dabgpimp/IMG_3186.jpg

[Mike L]

Here are the Pirate Lab Chromoly Frame stiffeners. They extend below the LCA mounts and also brace the steering box. There is TONS of prep work involved, but they turned out really good.

I remember seeing your original post. That looks good. Did you ever paint it?

[J Money]

I remember seeing your original post. That looks good. Did you ever paint it?

Thanks man! I have been so lazy and still haven't painted hem yet. I keep wanting to add to them and wanted to avoid the prep work. But I lagged so long now I have to sand them anyways.

[Ryan93]

prep work just tedious ripping off all the factory underspray?

[BRIANHO13]

prep work just tedious ripping off all the factory underspray?

A small torch will do wonders, just be careful and make sure you do it outside (very well insulated area).

[Mike L]

A small torch will do wonders, just be careful and make sure you do it outside (very well insulated area).

Ventilated?

[BRIANHO13]

Ventilated?

Yes, wow talk about brain fart.......Ventilated, very ventilated.

[kastein]

A wire wheel in an angle grinder blows that stuff away like you wouldn't believe.

Clogs up even a 20 grit flap wheel in a new york minute though :barf:

[xcm]

A wire wheel in an angle grinder blows that stuff away like you wouldn't believe.

Clogs up even a 20 grit flap wheel in a new york minute though :barf:

i find that to be grinder wheel abuse, and the smell isnt too pleasant either!
not all underbody's are the same, sometimes it's thin, sometimes its 1/4" thick in spots... try a grinder wheel at the 1/4" spot, you wont get very far!

cook it with a plumbers torch, and it peels right off with a flat knife.
in another thread, someone recommended brake fluid.

[kastein]

I said wire wheel, not grinder wheel. Big difference :lecture:

A grinder wheel would make a truly off-putting smell, you are correct on that.

EDIT: yeah, brake fluid does a pretty good job of removing it. So does brake kleen but I would be wary of doing that since it produces phosgene when you start welding and there is some left in a crevice!

[Larrythedog]

EDIT: yeah, brake fluid does a pretty good job of removing it. So does brake kleen but I would be wary of doing that since it produces phosgene when you start welding and there is some left in a crevice!

X2 theres enough crap to deal with when welding the uni-body without throwing brain damage or death into the picture.

[xj9140]

X2 theres enough crap to deal with when welding the uni-body without throwing brain damage or death into the picture.

your thinking of brake parts cleaner, not brake fluid, big difference

[xj9140]

I couldn't get a clamp on this spot because of the factory shock mount so used a self tapper to bring it flush, worked good.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture059.jpg

[kastein]

Xj9140, read the post he quoted - I said both work and noted to avoid brake kleen on things being welded

[xcm]

found this in xj9140's thread over in mod tech, and thought of this thread.
I brushed on a bunch of brake fluid to remove the under coating. Scrapes of with a putty knife real easy

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture044.jpg

my 3/16 plates

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture056.jpg

I marked were to grind
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture057.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture058.jpg

when I pulled my leaf spring the damn welds broke on the nutsert deal
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture063-1.jpg

I had to cut a another hole in the floor and install a new nut, PITA
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture061.jpg

I welded in a nut attached to some flat bar (see far left) those other plates are for plating the leaf pockets
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture064-1.jpg

The rears complete, still need to finish the rest

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture116.jpg

[winkosmosis]

Why doesn't anyone make a brace or big skid plate that ties the framerails together along almost the whole length between the tires? It doesn't have to be one piece, it could be 2 that bolt together. Hell, you could connect to the pinch seams too and have a nice flat underside with some 3Dness for more rigidity.

Similar to this, but filled in for protection. BTW note that this Miata has a more protected cat than almost all of us :D

http://www.flyinmiata.com/images/misc_images/IMG_9008.jpg

[DieselSJ]

Why doesn't anyone make a brace or big skid plate that ties the framerails together along almost the whole length between the tires? It doesn't have to be one piece, it could be 2 that bolt together. Hell, you could connect to the pinch seams too and have a nice flat underside with some 3Dness for more rigidity.

Similar to this, but filled in for protection. BTW note that this Miata has a more protected cat than almost all of us :D


Because you have a driveshaft (or two) and some other things that hang down below the rails. Look underneath with your suspension extended and see where you could tie the sides together.

[vetteboy]

Well, kinda...

http://pages.prodigy.net/dmacock/links/DSC01133.JPG

http://pages.prodigy.net/dmacock/links/DSC01139.JPG

http://pages.prodigy.net/dmacock/links/DSC01617.JPG

And I'd say my cat is pretty well protected. (upper left above the rear diff)

http://pages.prodigy.net/dmacock/links/DSC01442.JPG

[DieselSJ]

Yeah, it is protected...a little too far back to get hot enough to actually do anything, but at least you won't smash it.

[xj9140]

Xj9140, read the post he quoted - I said both work and noted to avoid brake kleen on things being welded

I only wanted to clarify

Here my cross member, Its 8" flat bar
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s74/4x4hiker/Picture117.jpg

Originally I planned to brace it, Ive beat on the rig pretty good, hasnt bent yet

[DieselSJ]

Suggestion - link this thread (and the other TOTM threads) into the FAQ thread.

[crazyjim]

Suggestion - link this thread (and the other TOTM threads) into the FAQ thread.
Good idea!

[VAhasnoWAVES]

then you can list them month by month for quick reference.