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Aftermarket bumpers that accept stock endcaps?

ReverendOD

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fenton, MO
I was wondering if there were any 97+ bumpers that you can use the stock endcaps? Or possibly a way to back the stock bumper with maybe 2x6 tubing so you could add D-Rings to it for towing and bolt a tire carrier to it? Same for the front too.
 
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Yes they do but i have no ned for a winch plate and they dont list the one without it anymore might have to give them a call. But I have access to heavy plate and 2x6 tubing.
 
Just give Mark a call. He'll make pretty much anything you want/need.
 
adding tabs wouldnt be hard, though id suggest making/getting frame rail tie ins and going from there.

i plan to use pre-97 end caps and locate my factory fogs IN the front bumper. got to get some hooks and ill be set for a good while. itll work as a daily driver... but i got to get ride of that stupid plastic trim. it eats up a ton of ground clearance.
 
I wanted the same thing and I couldn't find any one that made one, so I built my own, It's not perfect or finished but it's a start.
DSCN0113.jpg

DSCN0114.jpg

DSCN0117.jpg


It reinforces the steering box on one side and will tie into the other side when I'm done
If you can't tell, It's 4 plates sandwiching the frame on both sides, with some spacers and a block for Drings

I know you're in MO but you might want to contact RockSolidFab/Team Willys he can probably fab something up for you

Detours backbone seems like a good system, and they could probably make it without the winch plate
http://www.detoursusa.com/xjbackbone.php
 
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adding tabs wouldnt be hard, though id suggest making/getting frame rail tie ins and going from there.

i plan to use pre-97 end caps and locate my factory fogs IN the front bumper. got to get some hooks and ill be set for a good while. itll work as a daily driver... but i got to get ride of that stupid plastic trim. it eats up a ton of ground clearance.

You mean like this..... I used 1/16" plate to make up my own endcaps. I riveted them on using bent over tabs. I used a 4" hydraulic hole puncher for the PIAA 510 's in the bumper. I didn't want to spend the effort of trying to make the factory fogs work for this application, with their funky brackets and having to make rectangular holes. Then I had the whole thing Line-X 'd

Jeep027.jpg
 
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. I used a 4" hydraulic hole puncher for the PIAA 510 's in the bumper.
Jeep027.jpg

Did you have a 4" hydraulic hole punch or did you have place do it for you. That's what I want to do to my bumper. I figured I would plasma cut a hole, weld a little 4" pipe in place and grind it flush with the front for a pefect circle. If you had it done, where was it, you aren't that far from me if you are still in Alburtis.
 
I was wondering if there were any 97+ bumpers that you can use the stock endcaps? Or possibly a way to back the stock bumper with maybe 2x6 tubing so you could add D-Rings to it for towing and bolt a tire carrier to it? Same for the front too.
Rock Rats used to make a double-tube front bumper that allowed you to use factory end caps. I dunno if they still do.
 
for the rear, I have a rigidco rear bumper and cut the factory end caps a little to fit:

main.php
 
Did you have a 4" hydraulic hole punch or did you have place do it for you. That's what I want to do to my bumper. I figured I would plasma cut a hole, weld a little 4" pipe in place and grind it flush with the front for a pefect circle. If you had it done, where was it, you aren't that far from me if you are still in Alburtis.
It's actually a portable hole puncher. It uses a lever actuated hydraulic pump with a 3 ft. or so flex line with a threaded-on die setup on the end. Basically, you drill a 9/16" pilot hole and stick this threaded part through. Then you screw on whatever size die and cutting bit for the hole you wanna cut. Then, started cranking on the pump. The bumper has a raised feature line which got flattenned out when I cut the holes, but the Line-X is very forgiving.
 
I was wondering about that contour line getting smashed too...

Take the bumper skin off and clamp it securely onto a drill press table and then use a 4" hole saw. Done carefully, it will produce a clean hole without flattening the contours.
 
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