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tips for 91 AX-15 trans removal

rysam

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Paradise, Ca.
My internal slave cylinder took a dump on me last night so I need to go in and replace it. I've never done a clutch/trans but I have the skills and tools, just short on exp. are there any hints or tips that would make the job easier or faster?

edit: 91,4.0,AX-15,231
 
I would recommend pulling the T/C seperately. Makes the job easier. I took a 9/19" box wrench and shortened it to get to all the T/C nuts. There are 6 of them. Pull the CPS before trying to remove the trans. so you don't break it. The top 2 bolts on the trans are reverse torx head 12mm if I remember correctly. Never could understand why they did that. When I put mine back together, I replaced them with regular hex head bolts. Probably be a good time for front and rear output seals on the T/C while it's out and a service too. Heck since we're spending your money and not mine, go ahead and do a SYE and a 2 low kit while it's out....:yap:
Good luck and, a friend is a big help especially putting it back in.
 
I would recommend pulling the T/C seperately. Makes the job easier. I took a 9/16" box wrench and shortened it to get to all the T/C nuts. There are 6 of them. Pull the CPS before trying to remove the trans. so you don't break it. The top 2 bolts on the trans are reverse torx head 12mm if I remember correctly. Never could understand why they did that. When I put mine back together, I replaced them with regular hex head bolts. Probably be a good time for front and rear output seals on the T/C while it's out and a service too. Heck since we're spending your money and not mine, go ahead and do a SYE and a 2 low kit while it's out....:yap:
Good luck and, a friend is a big help especially putting it back in.

Fixed.

Make sure the pressure plate (aka "hat" or "cover") fits on the alignment pins--I usually give the holes a quick turn with the tapered reamer so that it slips right on them.

Luk Gold is a good kit, includes the slave.
 
I would recommend pulling the T/C seperately. Makes the job easier. I took a 9/19" box wrench and shortened it to get to all the T/C nuts. There are 6 of them. Pull the CPS before trying to remove the trans. so you don't break it. The top 2 bolts on the trans are reverse torx head 12mm if I remember correctly. Never could understand why they did that. When I put mine back together, I replaced them with regular hex head bolts. Probably be a good time for front and rear output seals on the T/C while it's out and a service too. Heck since we're spending your money and not mine, go ahead and do a SYE and a 2 low kit while it's out....:yap:
Good luck and, a friend is a big help especially putting it back in.

E12 external Torx, threaded 3/8"-16. Match the length under the head and replace with hex heads.

Why'd they do it? That's why Torx was designed - for ease in automated manufacturing. Has sod-all to do with future serviceability.
 
when i replaced the slave on my 89, i used a floor jack under the trans and t/c sl i could slide/roll the trans back, instead of dropping the trans to the ground.

you also need to remove both drive shafts, starter, t/c linkage, trans shifter, back up and t/c switch wires and anything else connected to the trans and t/c. also disconnect the exhaust and push aside.
 
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