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Tune up ?

HogWash

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
IM getting ready to do a tune up on my 87 chero.I would like some insight on the products that I can purchse at a local auto store.(ex. spark plugs,wires)What should the gap be on the plugs,what brand?ANd what kind of wires(brand).The motor is all stock,but is missing ,so im figuring its time for a tune up.Any help would be great.Thanks
 
spark plug gap is .35...I think
use champion plugs
replace the wires, cap, and rotor button
while you're at it pour a can of Seafoam slowly through the TB while the engine is running.
 
The stock Champion plugs work well, some say the truck plugs are better. I prefer a silicon plug wire, spiral wound solid core, with a long spark plug boot (Accel, Blue Max etc.). With a stock (resistance) coil to cap wire.
The distributor cap can be a sore point. I actually change mine about twice as often as I change the plugs. My plugs seem to last forever, I just regap them every couple of years. I have a whole box full of perfectly good plugs that I have swapped out unnecessarily.
Seperate the coil from the ignition module, gently clean the contacts, between the two. Clean the dipstick holder and the head to firewall grounds.
Avoid any miracle sprays or other snake oil. A quality electrical contact spray being the exception.
An occasional miss at idle, really doesn't mean much and is often kind of a generic Renix thing. I really don't know exactly how I got mine to idle correctly and fire without missing a beat at idle. Got lucky I guess.
An occasional can of gas tank added injector cleaner (brand name), sometimes seems to help. At the very least it also works as a gas tank dryer and the fall and winter months are known for condensation building up in the fuel tank. Which can sure enough cause a miss, especially on a cold motor.
The miss is often moisture and/or corrosion in the distributor cap tower and/or cable boots and the plug ends. Sometimes cracked or leaky plug wires and sometimes the inside of the distributor cap, the gap between the rotor and the lugs, gets a buildup of corrosion and the gap grows. Carbon dust in the cap can also cause occasional strange ground paths for the high voltage spark.
Sticky injectors are harder to find.
A good trick is to hook up a tinming light to each plug cable (one at a time) and point it at a dark spot (any old spot will do), you can see a miss pretty quick. Helps narrow down which cylinder is causing the problem.
 
When I usually start it up after being warm,it revs real high like 2500 rpm what could cause this?I changed 1 of my injectors #6 I think about 6 months ago,and run seafoam in it about 1 every other fill up or when I get around to going to the auto parts store.
 
The Renix "hot start" is well known phenominum. Keeping the IAC clean (just dumping sea foam down the TB throat deosn't get it) helps. A fairly fresh battery also seems to help, the starter sucks down a bunch of juice the IAC needs to operate.
It often seems to happen on a warm motor, during a short stop (motor off for only a couple of minutes). Sometimes first thing in the morning when the battery is likely a little weak and things are stiff anyway.
I've never heard of a cure for the occasional hot motor rev. The high rev at cold start, is often a sticky IAC and low voltage.
 
8Mud said:
The Renix "hot start" is well known phenominum. Keeping the IAC clean (just dumping sea foam down the TB throat deosn't get it) helps. A fairly fresh battery also seems to help, the starter sucks down a bunch of juice the IAC needs to operate.
It often seems to happen on a warm motor, during a short stop (motor off for only a couple of minutes). Sometimes first thing in the morning when the battery is likely a little weak and things are stiff anyway.
I've never heard of a cure for the occasional hot motor rev. The high rev at cold start, is often a sticky IAC and low voltage.
Were is this IAC and how do I get it loose again.What is the OEM on CCA on a battery?I beleive mine is real low any way,so I replacing soon withan Optima,any suggestions on which one and were I can get one pretty cheap?
 
HogWash said:
Were is this IAC and how do I get it loose again.What is the OEM on CCA on a battery?I beleive mine is real low any way,so I replacing soon withan Optima,any suggestions on which one and were I can get one pretty cheap?
the IAC is right next to the TPS on the throttle body. It's the one that doesn't have adjustments.
It's held in with soem torx screws.
procedure for cleaning
Pull it's plug
Pull the IAC itself
DO NOT CYCLE THE PLUNGER BY HAND
DO NOT LOSE THE RUBBER PLUNGER OR ROTATE IT
Gently clean the rubber plunger with a clotch and degreaser of your choice.
Soak the hole in the TB with degreaser of your choice
use a piece of pipe cleaner to get the nasty out of the hole.
Put it back like you found it.
 
87manche said:
the IAC is right next to the TPS on the throttle body. It's the one that doesn't have adjustments.
It's held in with soem torx screws.
procedure for cleaning
Pull it's plug
Pull the IAC itself
DO NOT CYCLE THE PLUNGER BY HAND
DO NOT LOSE THE RUBBER PLUNGER OR ROTATE IT
Gently clean the rubber plunger with a clotch and degreaser of your choice.
Soak the hole in the TB with degreaser of your choice
use a piece of pipe cleaner to get the nasty out of the hole.
Put it back like you found it.
Be carefull not to kink the "O" ring gasket between the IAC and TB, when reinstalling. And that the IAC seats flush again.
Best not to even mess with the plunger on the IAC, just let a drop of oil flow behind it. There is grease behind the plunger, in there for a reason, overdoing the cleaning with solvents and such, can cause grief.
I pulled mine with the wires still connected, my son turned on the igntion, the plunger tried to go into orbit.
 
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