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Newbie with a question....

mizzutgr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
missouri
I am starting to build my 99 - thinking about a 3" lift on 31's, but I'm also thinking that since I have the crappy d 35 rear I might as well swap it out at the same time. My question is - What rear should I go for? I am looking for something that will go in with zero problems- no mods ( is that possible?) I was thinking about calling some junk yards - is there a specific year of jeep I should ask for? and about how much $$$$ should something like that go for used. Thanks
 
8.25 with limited slip, direct bolt on as long as you take it from an XJ. Also 96 and newer had the better 29 spline 8.25. You can pick them up for a decent price.
 
Some older xjs came with a dana 44 rear that will bolt right in. Also newer xjs without ABS came with 29 spline 8.25" rears that are also pretty good. Either way you'll probably end up losing your ABS function and will want the driveshaft that came with the axle as well. You're dana 35 driveshaft will likely be too long.
 
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I have the crappy d 35 rear I might as well swap it out at the same time.

You SURE?
My '99 has the 8.25

axlechart.jpg








EDIT:
Guess ya got the ABS.
I was a little slow in my post. was looking for the ID chart.
bowdown.gif
Thanks soopergoober, didnt know that info.
Learn sumpin new every day.
 
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If you want to keep your ABS, you'll have to stick with the D35 you have. Or, search out how to make an axle swap to probably a Ford 8.8 with disc brakes and learn how to keep the ABS. If you're just going to 31's, and want the ABS, then it would be much simpler to keep the D35. If you go to 33's, then decide how badly you want the ABS. A later model 8.25 ('97 up) or an XJ D44 will bolt right in......but no ABS.
 
the dana 44 are in the 87-88 xj so hit the junkyard looking for them, but its a direct swap i think you need to start thinking about what you really want to do with the xj cause if your going to go bigger you might aswell search for a 44 or a ford 8.8 (which is not a direct bolt in and you need wheelspacers) and keep the d35 cause with 31 you shouldnt have very many problems unless you like the skinny peddle alot
 
Drifto 77 might be right- the case does look like the 8.25. I guess the jeep people that service my ride mis-identified it. I crawled under it to see if I could fing any markings and I came across a Chrysler logo and some serial? numbers on the front side of it near the u-joint conection. So I guess I'm in luck with not swapping it out. The front has a dana logo on it but I have no idea what it is - I am very new at this. I was looking at the Rough Country 3" lift to put on it - anybody have an opinion on that brand? Thanks for the quick replies.
 
not trying to hijack but Iam thinkin about swaping in the Sterling 10.25 and D60 from my old truck, never put anything that big in something like a jeep though, whats involved in somthing like that? Iam about 1000% sure the frame needs to be reinforced what else?
 
A good indication of an 8.25 is a wide flat area on the bottom of the housing right at the diff cover and a plastic filler hole plug. I THINK the D35 has a threaded filler?
 
A good indication of an 8.25 is a wide flat area on the bottom of the housing right at the diff cover and a plastic filler hole plug. I THINK the D35 has a threaded filler?

The OEM D35 in my 90 is plastic.

Look for the "RHINO" nose of the 8.25.
 
Drifto 77 might be right- the case does look like the 8.25. I guess the jeep people that service my ride mis-identified it. I crawled under it to see if I could fing any markings and I came across a Chrysler logo and some serial? numbers on the front side of it near the u-joint conection. So I guess I'm in luck with not swapping it out. The front has a dana logo on it but I have no idea what it is - I am very new at this. I was looking at the Rough Country 3" lift to put on it - anybody have an opinion on that brand? Thanks for the quick replies.
there is alot of good info about this company on this forum but from the sound of it you definely want to go with a full leaf pack if you can, but with your 3 inch you should be fine with anything cause it does not sound like your going to wheel super hard ...Yet! and all cherokee came with a Dana 30 front
 
...Yet! and all cherokee came with a Dana 30 front

dont forget depending on the year they can be a little different. 2000-01 are standard cut low pinion while before that theyre high pinion reverse cut. i forget which years exactly but the earliest years also had the failure prone vacuum CAD system (central axle disconnect)
 
I THINK the D35 has a threaded filler?

on some yes. my 89 has a threaded filler, but it also has the LSD. probably because the need for special addative for the friction plates, they installed the threaded filler. most others ive seen are a rubber plug.
 
Well! If we are going to be picky here, not ALL XJ's came with a D30 front.

The ones from South America had a D44 option ;-)
 
8.25 with limited slip, direct bolt on as long as you take it from an XJ. Also 96 and newer had the better 29 spline 8.25. You can pick them up for a decent price.
I don't see him mentioning ABS in the OP but maybe I just can't read, that's been happening recently. Also it's 97 and newer, plus the latter part of the 96 model year - you can't be sure a 96 8.25 is 29 spline unless you open the case and count the splines.

Drifto 77 might be right- the case does look like the 8.25. I guess the jeep people that service my ride mis-identified it. I crawled under it to see if I could fing any markings and I came across a Chrysler logo and some serial? numbers on the front side of it near the u-joint conection. So I guess I'm in luck with not swapping it out. The front has a dana logo on it but I have no idea what it is - I am very new at this. I was looking at the Rough Country 3" lift to put on it - anybody have an opinion on that brand? Thanks for the quick replies.
If you have ABS, it's a 35. If you don't, it could be either. Look at the cover and look for a flat bottom lip on the diff casing (it'll look like two triangular flanges sticking out at 5 oclock and 7 oclock when looking at the cover from the rear of the vehicle) to see for sure.

I'd go for it, when lifting is a perfect time to swap out axles since you'll have the springs out and the shocks off anyways, and probably the brake line as well, leaving the axle connected by only the sway bar (which you should be junking anyways, it's a toothpick and does nothing once you've put stiffer lift springs in, just gets in the way) and emergency brake cables.

EDIT: this is also a perfect time to gear up. If you have a 4.0L and manual... you are LUCKY! Get the axles out of an auto with the 4.0 and they will almost definitely be 3.55s (check to be sure) which brings you to approximately factory gearing ratio with 31s/32s. If you have an auto with the 4.0, you can either try and find the axles out of a 2.5 manual which are likely to be 4.10 gears, or pay to have gears installed which gets expensive.
 
If you have an auto with the 4.0, you can either try and find the axles out of a 2.5 5 speed manual which are likely to be 4.10 gears

FIFY :cheers:

2.5 AX-4s (like the set I gave you) don't have 4.10s.

2.5 AW4s have 4.56s as well. But I've only seen them first hand in pre 90 XJs (which meant no 8.25 and a CAD D30).
 
Oops, forgot that bit... apparently I can't write either :roflmao: specified tranny on everything except the important bit.

Yeah, I don't think the 2.5/AW-4 combo was offered past the AMC/RENIX era. I see a part number for a 2.5/AW-4 bellhousing in my 88-90 parts catalog, but there is only one bellhousing on the same page in my 91-93 catalog and it's for the 4.0/AW-4 combo. The available axle ratios also only go up to 4.11 in my 91-93 catalog while they go up to 4.56 in the 88-90 catalog.
 
I bought my 99 bran' spankin' new. Got it for 19,5 I-6, 5 speed , power windows-locks ,air and cruise. I love it- I will never get rid of it. The dealer tried very hard to get me to buy the automatic- he even argued with me about re-sale value ect,ect. I'm also thinking that since it has the 8.25 in the rear I'm gonna check out a locker for it. Any opinions on a good middle of the road brand I should check out? Also, should I lock the front or the back first. I don't know when i'll have enough $$$$ to get a second locker for it so I might as well put the first one where it helps the most. Thanks for the input, you guys are a ton of help for us first timers.
 
I bought my 99 bran' spankin' new. Got it for 19,5 I-6, 5 speed , power windows-locks ,air and cruise. I love it- I will never get rid of it. The dealer tried very hard to get me to buy the automatic- he even argued with me about re-sale value ect,ect. I'm also thinking that since it has the 8.25 in the rear I'm gonna check out a locker for it. Any opinions on a good middle of the road brand I should check out? Also, should I lock the front or the back first. I don't know when i'll have enough $$$$ to get a second locker for it so I might as well put the first one where it helps the most. Thanks for the input, you guys are a ton of help for us first timers.

You might aswell get a selectable locker where your open intell you flip the switch !! Arb,ox, elocker all work good but run you some money , and if your opening up the diff you might as well decide what size tires you want to run and get those gears cause anything lower then (ibelieve but could be wrong ) 3.73 gears you need a new carrier which means you got to buy another locker so really since your jeep is at baby age you should planon how high you want it and what size tires you want and work around that
 
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