• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

shock valving opinion

muddeprived

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA
90% DD, 10% light/moderate 4wheeling

31" LTB's on steel wheels.
4.5" RC Long arm kit
t-case skid/detours backbone/xrc8/hitch/30"spare/100# cargo (weight)

Preferred wheeling type and style: mud/forrest trails | slow and careful style







255/70 valving

or


170/60 valving?

Which valving would be best for this type of rig?
 
Go for the 255. I'm running 360/80 in front and love it with 255/70 out back. I think 255/70 is about the lightest you'll hear someone on here recommend for our XJs.
 
90% DD, 10% light/moderate 4wheeling

31" LTB's on steel wheels.
4.5" RC Long arm kit
t-case skid/detours backbone/xrc8/hitch/30"spare/100# cargo (weight)

Preferred wheeling type and style: mud/forrest trails | slow and careful style







25570 valving

or


170/60 valving?

Which valving would be best for this type of rig?
I have a pair of 10" travel 7100 shortbodies that would work perfect for the front of your jeep! There the 360/80 valving, which I run in my cherokee
 
Does anyone know what old man emu's valving is on their long travel shock? I had em before and loved how they rode. The valving was perfect for me. But their shocks are too short so that's why i'm considering bilsteins.
 
255/70 is fairly soft. 170/60 is for dual shock applications.
 
I agree the 255/70 is a lil soft, I was running the 5150s with that valving with RE coils. I didnt like the ride, was to soft, seemed like it would really lean easy. I changed the coils to BDS they are a lot thicker coil, I like the setup much better on and off road.
 
Thanks for the info. I'm trying to decide which would be a better first-mod to eliminate the stiff rear end:

HD shackle relocation brackets

or

Bilstein shocks


I have a vertical shackle angle with 4" springs so i figured if I change it to 30-45 degrees with the relocation boxes then it would improve the ride quality in the back. The problem is I can't seem to get a straight answer on how much the relocation boxes lift the rear end? Some say 3/4", some say 1", and other says 1.5". If it's 1.5" then it's too much lift (rake), if it's 3/4" then it's perfect.
 
Getting the shackle angle better will help a lot! I put those on as well, for me it added prolly close to an inch. Sits a lil higher in the rear now, but it rides so much beter. When I put my spare tire in and spare parts (or passengers) it rides at a even level witch works out for me better then a sagging rear end when wheeling.
 
Getting the shackle angle better will help a lot! I put those on as well, for me it added prolly close to an inch. Sits a lil higher in the rear now, but it rides so much beter. When I put my spare tire in and spare parts (or passengers) it rides at a even level witch works out for me better then a sagging rear end when wheeling.

What does your rear suspension consist of? (shocks/springs/shackle angle)


Thanks!
 
I got 4.5 inch RE leafs that sit at 6" never settled, 1 inch boomerange shackle and the shackle relocation brackets. The shocks are 12" travel 5150s 255/70 valving, the angle on the shackle is probally around 50 degrees. I planned to run a 6.5 inch lift, the RE springs messed me up on that one! It articulates good but it sits around 8 inches in the rear when not loaded. You mentioned in the top post that you like the slow and careful stuff, prolly dont need to go 5150 or 7100s, The reservore is not going to do much. I think you would be happy with the 255/70.
 
Back
Top