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SYE for 242

X

XJIDAHO

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Wilder, ID
I was wondering why I can't find a slip yoke eliminator for the NP 242? Does it not require one, or do they just not make one? I plan on going with a 6 inch lift so I can clear 33s.
 
XJIDAHO said:
I was wondering why I can't find a slip yoke eliminator for the NP 242? Does it not require one, or do they just not make one? I plan on going with a 6 inch lift so I can clear 33s.
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tom woods has a high bucker kit, rubicon express makes a hack'n'tap that works just fine for much cheaper, preferences and funds, they are out there though.
edit: and yes, you will need one
 
again when tom was at six states he built for me a cvds for the Currie 242 flanged sye six states sold.

It's basically a 231 tailshaft and housing w/a double row bearing. You can see the exact instructions I used eight years ago on his site, it looks like the 231 in the pix.

It has held up great for 114k miles, though i don't off-road alot, if you think about it the vast majority of the time i drive it's only the rear ds doing the spinning.

So I'm not qualified regarding how it would fare in 4wd for the long term, i must admit. it's a full re 4.5 lift, the oem front ds/angle is very happy with the re 4.5 coils, and with very little shimming in the rear all is good.

The Japanese bearing seems to be doing fine with that mileage, and the seal isn't leaking. :worship: ('98 classic)
 
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mikeny59 said:
again when tom was at six states he built for me a cvds for the Currie 242 flanged sye six states sold.

It's basically a 231 tailshaft and housing w/a double row bearing. You can see the exact instructions I used eight years ago on his site, it looks like the 231 in the pix.

It has held up great for 114k miles, though i don't off-road alot, if you think about it the vast majority of the time i drive it's only the rear ds doing the spinning.

But I'm sure but not qualified regarding the innards and how it would fare in 4wd, i must admit. The Japanese bearing seems to be doing fine with that mileage, and the seal isn't leaking. :worship:
Click to expand...

The SYE deals with your rear driveshaft, not the front, so i'd say it held up Pretty darned well!!
 
Thank the lord, i guess i was also trying to say that from what i've heard the 242 isn't as popular for traditional 'wheelin, but it's getting late for me and i'm segueing into another topic.
segueing into another topic..
segueing into another topic...

:helpme:
 
If you're not going the hack and tap route, you'll have to split the tc case and have plenty of patience and confidence. If I could do it, you surely/probably can. Except next time I would have pulled the t/c versus doing it on my back :anon:

Oh yeah, an old bed comforter makes a wonderful surface when lying under yer xj for anything more than five minutes :wierd:
 
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like I said, I have a Currie which basically replaces the yoke with machined flanges, and a funky front u-joint yoke.

talk to tom woods.
 
Rickady said:
Does any one offer a SYE that is NOT a hack and tap for the 242?
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Not really, which is why I just pulled my 242 in favor of a 231 with SYE. Not like I need full time 4wd in socal.
 
markw said:
Not really, which is why I just pulled my 242 in favor of a 231 with SYE. Not like I need full time 4wd in socal.
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wanna get rid of the 242? would be a nice addition to my collection.
 
Rickady said:
Does any one offer a SYE that is NOT a hack and tap for the 242?
Click to expand...

Tom Woods, I have it on mine. Its basically a professionally done Hack & Tap. and if you have a later model, he puts a yoke style output instead of a flange, which IMHO is a better set-up for a CV. I tried the RE H&T and if left the flange a ways fromt he tail of the housing, can cause flexing. The T/W's set-up keeps every thing nice and short. And he has a better seal set-up now, so no leaky. Granted its got a big buy in price, but its worth it.
 
Rickady said:
Does any one offer a SYE that is NOT a hack and tap for the 242?
Click to expand...

Yes. I have the Tom Wood's setup and I have no regrets. I like the 242 for dealing with snow so I did not want to convert to a 231. Unless you are not planning on using a front shaft from a yard, the TW setup is not that much more expensive than the HacknTap.

Free advice: When you lift your rig do not put on a TCase drop. After it's lifted do the measurements and send them to TW. Install SYE and DS and then figure out what size shims you will need. Your rig will most likely be undrivable at 6" and no TCase drop until you get the TW SYE and DS installed. He ships fast so it may only have sit for a week.

Good luck.
 
redsand187 said:
What is the difference between the RE1801 and the RE1807? It says for later then 96, but what changed on the tailshaft in 96 on the 242?
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I THINK the spline count went from 21 to 23
 
Skullvarian said:
I THINK the spline count went from 21 to 23
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I believe you are correct. Tail cone is absent on the newer style as well.

I have the 242.
I did the RE H&T.


It's not the most popular choice for wheeling, no. I figure I'll wheel it till' it goes and upgrade from there. Besides, I don't really have the cash to swap in a 231 just because. So far....so good.
I know of one feller that has the 242 and wheels pretty hardcore. He, to my knowledge has yet to have issues either. I'm sure there are others as well.
JMO.


Hale
 
redsand187 said:
What is the difference between the RE1801 and the RE1807? It says for later then 96, but what changed on the tailshaft in 96 on the 242?
Click to expand...

No change in the spline count at all but the pre 96 comes with a wet seal housing in the kit as you remove the tailcone which also holds in the oil. There is no tailcone on the 96+.
 
Gojeep said:
No change in the spline count at all but the pre 96 comes with a wet seal housing in the kit as you remove the tailcone which also holds in the oil. There is no tailcone on the 96+.
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The reason I ask is I have heard of someone using a TJ Hack and Tap on a early Cherokee without any problems. Is it possible? What else do they include in the early kit that ads 100 bucks to it?
 
redsand187 said:
The reason I ask is I have heard of someone using a TJ Hack and Tap on a early Cherokee without any problems. Is it possible? What else do they include in the early kit that ads 100 bucks to it?
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Only the seal housing and seal is extra. When I made my SYE using a yoke from a Corvette instead of a flange, I only needed the seal housing so sold the rest of the kit off to someone with a 96+ transfercase.
 
http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html click on tech info, go to bottom 231/242 conversion.

This the Currie conversion. In photo 23 it show the flanges mating w/grade 8hardware, then a spicer yoke mates to the rear flange (you don't see).

The bolt you see in the center may remind one of an r/e h&t, But I assure you it is inserted into a brand new 231 tailshaft that was not "raped and snapped" to jury-rig an inferior set-up.

I just crawled under my jeep with a disposable camera, by tomorrow pix will be up.

Don't let the flanges (that do give you a DOUBLE row output bearing) and the re style bolt/washer the wrong impression. They are light years apart.

Though my knowledge is limited in many areas, I've been posting here since '97 - circa Beezil (he helped me via the phone put the thing togther one afternoon in '99) - and in at least this thread trust me. peace.
 
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