I've searched around, but most of the threads I've found were old and I'm not sure if the upgrades in them are even being sold anymore. Mostly wondering if there are any comparable to Jeepers & Creepers? I've considered making my own, but for something this integral I'd rather have someone more experienced than me making it.
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Battery cables upgrade
- Thread starter Dest
- Start date
MT Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Helena, MT
Link check?
Last edited by a moderator:
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
MT Mike
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Helena, MT
Oops. Fixed. :cheers:
iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
I run his cable setup as well, great quality and awesome guy to deal with making those cables worth every penny to me.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Happened across this - bear in mind that Geocities shut down, and I had to move the site. www.kelleyswip.com is where I am online now, in case you want to check...
(I know it's been a while - Geocities shut down in October. I know I haven't finished putting the new site back together - on the heels of my wife having a new hip installed, we're looking at her getting a new knee next week...)
(I know it's been a while - Geocities shut down in October. I know I haven't finished putting the new site back together - on the heels of my wife having a new hip installed, we're looking at her getting a new knee next week...)
- Location
- NE Texas
Jon, You're not a WJ fan? haha
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
It's not that - I just don't have any measurements (yet) for anything else.
@Joe - yeah, but she's put up with me for so long as it is, I don't think I could find anyone else that would tolerate me anywhere near as well! Besides, I'm happy that we can find a way to fix most of her troubles - the only thing we could do to really fix me would be to download my brain into a new cyborg body...
joe_peters
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Grants Pass, OryGun
I nominate your Wife for Sainthood, and come on Jon, we all know you are already a cyborg! :roflmao:
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
You'll have to second - the manager at my local nominated her fro sainthood years ago...
I wouldn't mind being a cyborg - but Julie's already closer than I am at the moment (I haven't had anything replaced yet. I'm waiting for new eyes to come out tho, I'd like to have those. I'll take mine with IR night vision and inbuilt rangefinder, please...)
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
It's got naught to do with cruise/speed control.
If you check the OEM alternator output lead, you'll likely note a short segment of smaller-gage wiring just before the PDC/distribution point (it's four number gages smaller. If it's not there, you've got an OBD-I PDC - and you'll find a pair of MAXI fuses labelled "Generator" in there.)
This smaller-gage wire segment is a fusible link - essentially, a high-current fuse. It's there to protect the vehicle electronics if your alternator's field coils should happen to get full battery voltage, instead of the 0.5-4.0VDC normally fed to them by the regulator circuit.
If the alternator coils get full battery voltage, a few things happen all at once:
1) The diodes tend to "short through" - and the AC voltage inside the alternator isn't recitifed (converted) to DC voltage for the vehicle anymore. PROBLEM.
2) The alternator's output current swings to well past the maximum rated output - we're talking something like a surge of 400-600A. PROBLEM
3) The output voltage also takes a huge jump - we'll be seeing something like 90VAC coming out of the alternator. PROBLEM.
Normally, the regulator keeps overcurrent conditions down by regulating the alternator's output voltage (trust me - it's workable. Current and voltage in a closed circuit are mathematically related...) so that enough current is provided to keep systems running and keep the battery topped off - once the engine is running, the battery gets recharged (from the high-current start) and is along for the ride, if everything is working right.
Now, if you were to replace the alternator output lead, you run into eliminating the OEM circuit protection device - which suddenly increases the risk of electronic damage and engine bay fire. Ouch.
By offering the ANL fuse option, I give you the ability to restore that fuse protection for the vehicle - it works in the same manner as the fusible link (or any other fuse,) but the ANL fuses are easier to find than large-gage fusible link wire, and the fuse can be changed inside of a minute using nothing by a 9/16" wrench. PROBLEM SOLVED.
When I devised that kit, I narrowed the field down to MAXI fuses, AGU fuses, ANL fuses, or MEGA fuses.
MAXI - Large plastic blade fuses, looks like an enlarged ATO/ATC fuse (and you've got plenty of those in an XJ.) Only available up to 80A, and I don't like having to "gang" fuses to protect a circuit.
MEGA - Available up to about 400A, but only really available from industrial electric/electronic houses.
AGU - A large glass tube fuse, kinda like a bigger version of the old AGC fuses that used to be in cars. Available up to around 300A, but I didn't like the idea of putting a glass tube underhood on a 4WD.
ANL - A plastic wafer fuse, mounted by the slotted contact tabs. Can be changed quickly and easily, the fuse block footprint is comparable to the AGU and MEGA fuses, and available 60-600A. Rugged and reliable, and ratings 100-300A can usually be found in autosound houses in a pinch.
You can probably guess why I selected the ANL fuse. As most people here can probably tell you, I design for reliability, simplicity, and ease of servicing (my thumb rule is "The next poor schmuck to work on this will be me - in the dark, with my Multi-Plier and Swiss Army knife, and maybe a rock.") I build everything like I'm going to put it on my wife's vehicle (I'm a mechanic - she's not. I don't care so much if I break down - I damned sure do care if she has trouble!)
But, as I said at the start, the ANL kit has nothing whatever to do with the speed control system - it's a safety device. Most other outfits that make custom HD battery cabling won't do the alternator cable for that reason (J&C has told me that's why they don't do the alternator cable as part of their kit,) and some of the outfits that do don't do anything to restore that fuse protection.
Every vehicle I've ever worked on, made since 1950, has had a fuse or fusible link in that circuit. I've not seen one that was blown, but we can readily assume that the engineers won that argument with the accountants for a reason (even if Legal did help Engineering. Consumer safety, y'know...)
Make more sense now?
- Location
- WA state
His cables are awesome. Definitely worth the $$ Second to none. Great guy and fast shipping.
As far as the ANL link cable. If you are not planning on upgrading the alt from stock, then I would not really worry about it. IF you are then get it and get the fuse to match.
I ordered the 1GA kit with the 4 main cables + Alt. ground cable.
As far as the ANL link cable. If you are not planning on upgrading the alt from stock, then I would not really worry about it. IF you are then get it and get the fuse to match.
I ordered the 1GA kit with the 4 main cables + Alt. ground cable.
Another plug for Jon's cables... I installed the full kit on my '96 about 2 years back and haven't had a lick of trouble since.
If you upgrade the cables that will go a LONG way to give you a great base for upgrades and attachments you 'will likely' add to your Cherokee in the future.
If you upgrade the cables that will go a LONG way to give you a great base for upgrades and attachments you 'will likely' add to your Cherokee in the future.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
... and you own a Cherokee? :roflmao:Jon, you could get a divorce and remarry instead of replacing her one part at a time...
BTW, 5-90, I discovered this Saturday at the junkyard that some vintages of Ford pickups (F-150s and 250s, as I recall, looked like 90s or later construction, didn't check) have two ANL "sockets" stock from the factory, they're up on the firewall on the passenger side in the engine compartment. They come with 175A fuses in them, and either 1 or 2 gauge wiring, haven't checked yet. Sorry I don't have more specifics, I was mostly going nuts with the lineman's pliers and not really paying attention to the vehicles. Some nice looking contactors right next to the fuse sockets, too. I got a bunch of them and plan to use them to build a winch controller.
Coastie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Upper Peninsula, Michigan
Jon's cables are the best! Went to him when I did my 136A upgrade.
Similar threads
