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TRANSFER CASE DROP PICS

Good luck getting the studs out without major damage,another good reason not to do a TC drop and just do a SYE kit.Do it right and do it once!
 
Bolt/stud combo on both sides.

Depending on your rust quotient start spraying those studs with PB blaster, then double-nut them and turn them out--if they are real stubborn you may have to invest in a stud remover.

You didn't mention your year--00-01 with a LP D30 and a tc-drop will be adding more problems than it fixes.

Note: if you don't modify the tc shift linkage you can expect problems when the body flexes and the linkage pulls the tc out of gear on you.

As said, SYE is the real way to go.
 
yes be very careful when trying to remove the studs (one on each side). definately soak them with PB blaster for awhile. id personally also try the double-nut method and heat first, it worked for one of the studs when i did it but didnt for the other. long story short i ended up having to drive it to a shop so they could weld a nut onto the stud and back it out that way. everything else we tried didnt work because we stripped the threads so badly (failed at: double-nut, stud extractor, vise grips, cheapo welder that couldnt even get it done)
 
Quickest and cheapest fix is probably a hack and tap SYE running a front auto driveshaft in the rear (assuming you have an auto)
 
Any suggestions for the SYE kit at a good price?And i can use a front shaft a from a 97-01 auto Cherokee without doing any work to the shaft, is that correct?
 
tc drop is easy but a sye is the way to go. like they said heat and use two nuts to lock on to the stud and it should come out easy. some where there is a good write up on a diy hack n tap. it will coast you around 100 to 150 dollars
 
The double nut trick failed everytime I tried it and on 3 different xj's. The nuts just strip out easily. The best way that worked like a charm was grinding two flat surfaces on the side of the studs with a dremel or grinder and then use a pipe wrench to twist the stud out. They come out like butter cuz the grinding heat melts the locktite.
 
mcdavid123 said:
Quickest and cheapest fix is probably a hack and tap SYE running a front auto driveshaft in the rear (assuming you have an auto)
Click to expand...

You have got to be shitting me!!!

He can do a t-case drop for $14, or a Rusty's 1" drop cross member for $119 (which is an improvement over the stock X-Member), or he could actually measure the angles and shim accordingly ( probably about $30 in shims).

It's not like he's got a ton of lift, it's only 2".

As far as the studs. Soak. Remove the cross member. Re-soak and heat if needed with a small torch ( won't hurt either way)Spin on one nut, spin on the other nut behind it and jam them together. Back out stud.

Ron
 
Zuki-Ron said:
You have got to be shitting me!!!

He can do a t-case drop for $14, or a Rusty's 1" drop cross member for $119 (which is an improvement over the stock X-Member), or he could actually measure the angles and shim accordingly ( probably about $30 in shims).

It's not like he's got a ton of lift, it's only 2".

As far as the studs. Soak. Remove the cross member. Re-soak and heat if needed with a small torch ( won't hurt either way)Spin on one nut, spin on the other nut behind it and jam them together. Back out stud.

Ron
Click to expand...

Yes, with just 2" or 2 3/4" of lift and a HP D30 I would certainly give the tc drop a shot.
 
DSCF4899.jpg



That was my homemade t-case drop. I twisted out the factory studs and replaced the bolts with 1.5" longer ones and use BIG (BEEP) NUTS as spacers.
 
muddeprived said:
DSCF4899.jpg



That was my homemade t-case drop. I twisted out the factory studs and replaced the bolts with 1.5" longer ones and use BIG (BEEP) NUTS as spacers.
Click to expand...

only problem is that the threaded hole in the spacers(nuts) is much larger then the threaded bolt shank diameter and the whole transmission cross member could shift/twist slightly. for me, there is too much of a gap between the spacer hole and the bolt shank.
 
89xj said:
only problem is that the threaded hole in the spacers(nuts) is much larger then the threaded bolt shank diameter and the whole transmission cross member could shift/twist slightly. for me, there is too much of a gap between the spacer hole and the bolt shank.
Click to expand...

I had em really friggin tight and it never moved. You can tell if it moves by looking at the mud stains around the nut LOL. I only had this on for about 3 months until I got a sye. The t-case drop didn't cure my vibes with only 2" lift so I had no choice but to go sye.
 
I just got 1" square tubing from local metal yard, cut to length, drilled holes, painted, got one inch longer bolts, pulled studs with double nut trick, and installed with jack lowering the cross member. Done!
 
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