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New to XJ's just bought my first one and have some maint. to do help appreciated

B

Ben_Dyer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sterling
well i ended up buying the XJ i wanted. has a few things i need to fix before running the trails though and would like some input on years and part enterchange-ability. Mine is a 1998 with the 4.0. here are some other specs...
1998 XJ Sport, 8.8 w/ disk brakes, 4.5" lift, slip yolk elim., 33" TrXus sTs on 15" MT rockcrawler rims, warn M8000 winch, rock sliders and full roll cage.


Things that need to be adressed before i wheel....
Replace the stearing gear box
replace engine mounts (whats a good brand for wheeling?)
replace the front brake line
change diff lubes
check for lockers
wire in the winch
replace the tranny speed sensor
replace the temp sensor
replace the exhaust manifold

Stearing gear box
Any tips on doing this?
What years will interchange on the gear box? from what napa said that from 81-95 and 99-01 they had the same gear box and from 96-98 they had a differant one. obviously there is something wrong here lol. so whats the best box to be looking for? is it a good idea to upgrade the stearing box or will a stock one work just fine.

Wiring the winch (Warn M8000)
I can not get the winch to run. it does not smell burnt or anything and seems to be in good condition. any one have a lead or link on a good site that has a step by step guid to wiring this thing?

Other than general maint. is there anything i should be looking at directly for issues that are known with the 1998 Xj's?
 
From the junkyard upgrades thread- a steering box from a ZJ can be used to replace the stock box. Same mounting, slightly tighter steering. I'll most likely be doing this this weekend
 
For engine mounts: Brown Dog --excellent mounts for under $100 I think. Do these while you're doing the exhaust manifold.

For the manifold: APC header. I would have used it, but older Cherokee's like mine require a bunch more fitting. Yours should bolt right in. While you're doing that take a look at the freeze plugs on the side of the block. They are 2" discs meant to fail if the block freezes to prevent damage. Mine were junk and new brass ones are about $3 a piece.

Then, you will want to add a section of flexible exhaust tubing to prevent damage to your new manifold.

Then check for leaks all around. Your lower radiator hose will be uncovered, may as well replace it if it looks at all funny.

Get some new o-rings for your injectors. There is one on the top and bottom of each injector. You are never supposed to reuse one because fuel leaks suck. Grease them up with Vasoline before installing. This helps them seat without damage and gas will dissolve it.

Before putting the manifolds back together, I'd grease up your O2 sensor's connection with dialectric grease (get all the connections down there ~3 of them).

May as well change your belt and keep the old one as a spare if it still looks ok.

Would be a good time to change any other hoses that look bad and your valve cover if it leaks.

Plugs, cap, rotor, wires.
 
Do a search on Durango steering box. It's supposed to be a good swap, but I forget which one. It's super specific. YJ boxes are supposed to be good also, I think the difference is that they lack the variable assist.

On the winch, is the solenoid for sure good? Know anyone else running one that you can swap solenoids to check? Maybe the remote?

I second the Brown Dog mounts. Get the poly, it'll last longer and is cheaper, but rougher. More vibes from the engine will reach you. Nothing major though. I got mine for right around $70ish.

YJ brake lines are supposed to be a good swap for doing your brake lines. Swap right in and are longer. Same for either Chevy or Dodge vans as well I think.
 
Ben_Dyer said:
well i ended up buying the XJ i wanted. has a few things i need to fix before running the trails though and would like some input on years and part enterchange-ability. Mine is a 1998 with the 4.0. here are some other specs...
1998 XJ Sport, 8.8 w/ disk brakes, 4.5" lift, slip yolk elim., 33" TrXus sTs on 15" MT rockcrawler rims, warn M8000 winch, rock sliders and full roll cage.


Things that need to be adressed before i wheel....
Replace the stearing gear box
replace engine mounts (whats a good brand for wheeling?)
replace the front brake line
change diff lubes
check for lockers
wire in the winch
replace the tranny speed sensor
replace the temp sensor
replace the exhaust manifold

Stearing gear box
Any tips on doing this?
What years will interchange on the gear box? from what napa said that from 81-95 and 99-01 they had the same gear box and from 96-98 they had a differant one. obviously there is something wrong here lol. so whats the best box to be looking for? is it a good idea to upgrade the stearing box or will a stock one work just fine.

Wiring the winch (Warn M8000)
I can not get the winch to run. it does not smell burnt or anything and seems to be in good condition. any one have a lead or link on a good site that has a step by step guid to wiring this thing?

Other than general maint. is there anything i should be looking at directly for issues that are known with the 1998 Xj's?
Click to expand...
Body parts: some you can use 97-up (sheetmetal and interior trim), many you can use 84-up (nuts and bolts, latches, etc.)
Engine parts: engine itself probably most any 4.0L. accessories, late 90s on (forget exact years.)
Electrical: 97 up for most stuff, 98 up for transmission related, 97-99 for exhaust related (O2 sensors.)
Exhaust: 97-99, maybe 96 and a few earlier years too.
Suspension: early 90s through 99 is what you should aim for.

Tranny speed sensor - which one? Starting in 98 there are two, an input and an output sensor. You can junkyard them from any 98-up XJ.
 
Are you sure that you need to replace steering box? is it leaking or do you just have alot of play in the steering wheel? Alot of the time its not a dead steering box, but it could be other issues such as toe,camber etc. you may want to look into it before you just toss in another bx, and their are also alot better options than stock steering boxes, like the durango that was mentioned earlier hydro steering, some years of wrangler etc
 
i took the jeep to a 4x4 place in Fort collins, CO and had them take a look at it. they informed me that the horrable crunching noise i get every time i turn the wheel in the gears in the stearing box. i also have a case of the death wobbles from hell. and the steering is very sloppy.

again i am not sure on which sensor. what the jeep does is that ill be cruising down the highway 55> and all of a sundden it will randomly stop accelerating the but keep running and i can still rev the engine. it will then slow down to about 30 ish and i can keep driving but no matter how hard i step on the gas it will not go past about 40. if i stop put it in park turn the engine off and re-start it will be fine. there is no loud clunk or noise when this happens its very random. also there is no lurch like the tranny is down shifting or anything. the shop said to try replacing the sensor that bolts to the bell housing.
 
hows the alignment? if you do the alignment and it still drives like crap then i'de go for the box. i have read taht the Durango is a good swap. i changed mine but kept it OEM.
as for the mounts, i agree with Brown Dog. :wave:
 
the alignment is horrable. the wheel sits almost upside down on a counter clock wise turn. and i can rock the steering wheel back and forth almost half a turn with no effect on the wheels.

Krinkle... are your injectors suppose to be able to spin? i ask cause i have never meesed with fuel lines and such and i noticed that half of mine do not and half of them do...
Darky... i am not sure what is wrong with the winch. i cant even get spark when the negative is hooked to the battery and positive just rubbing the terminal. they also had the ground wire from the battery bolted to the darn bumper. the only wires i could find that actually come from the winch is a little red wire (goes up to the remote plug under the cover) and the thick red cable and that bolts to the underside of the motor.
im in on the brown dog mounts they seem to come with good ratings thanks guys.
 
Ben_Dyer said:
help with body lifts?
Click to expand...

no such thing as a "body lift" for our unibody cherokees just to let you know. i.e they dont have a true "frame" like wranglers and such.

GMC brakelines are a good upgrade over the stock front ones lengthwise also. taken from another thread:

FRONT:: 95 GMC c1500 2wd lines - 15$ each
Left - Napa PN #38620
Right - Napa PN #38621
 
welcome, and congrats on getting the jeep you wanted, sounds like a kickass jeep to start with!
how about posting some pics? and no driveway/poseur shots, i suggest cage pics.

dont use lift motor mounts.
you cant body lift a cherokee, its a unibody.

i prefer the rubber motor mounts, like from M.O.R.E.

some durango reading: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=915103
now would be the time to plate the frame rails, if they havent been done, front and middle.
 
i know that the cherokee does not have the frame like other vehicles i just saw that BD offered an engine mount lift and was curious of the uses for such an upgrade. i am getting the classic poly mounts and have already placed the order for them.

the brake line is cracked just above the passenger braided line. i was going to pull the hard line a replace it from a JY jeep.

unfortunatly i dont have any pics of the jeep yet other than what was on CL. and i dont plan on wheeling untill i get the steering box, motor mounts replaced, and figure out why my tranny is ghost shifting.

i will have to post pics of the frame rails where they mounted the rock sliders and is looks like they plated that section but not all of it.
 
FYI - Motor Mount Lifts (mmls) are not very common on XJ, however some folks with lots of suspension lift use them for additional oil pan clearance. If you are considering these, we recomend an SYE (remember our 1" mmls raise the front of the engine 1").

If considering 1" MMLs on an XJ, be sure to check clearance between bell housing and floor. You'll need a good 3/4". Some XJ seem to get by with no interference. Other owners let the bell housing "rub" for a while until clearance is accomplished. Others use the 'sledge' fix. Perfectionists cut a small hole in the floor, then weld up a housing to accomplish clearance.
 
2 addnl items regarding Motor Mount Lifts on XJ....

One, we don't recommend the 'rub' method for bell house-floor clearance due to possible bell house damage.

Two, the fan shroud will need to be either trimmed or moved slightly to accomodate the raised engine.

We always provide additional technical advice before AND after the sale...certainly during and after installation, so if you have questions about this or any other motor mount or engine bracket issue, be sure to call. Phones are forwarded for tech assistance after hours and on weekends.
 
Simple steering gear box check..... Look under the hood while someone turns the steering wheel back and forth. Make sure you are looking straight down where you can see the steering shaft and the pitman arm below it. If the shaft moves yet there is a time delay on the pitman arm moving.... It's the gear box. I have been experiencing the same steering problems you describe. One of the guys out at Rusty's Offroad showed me this check. I'm getting ready to order a steering box from PSC. I only have three inches of lift and am running 31's. I'm just gonna do one of their reman'd OEM's. From what I gather, OSC is the way to go. Price on this one is $160.00.
 
well got the winch figured out ended uo being that they had the poitive hooked to the ground for the motor and had the motor ground (from the switch) going to the bumper. switched the wires all around to the ocrrect places and bingo she kicked right over.

Eddy did the check and it is the gear box confirmed and double checked. i am going to go with a used gear box from a guy on here thats parting out his '96. plus im getting all the sensors and the manifold thats been repaired (mine is cracked all the way around the flange and has a huge crack right at the mounting place for #6). for a good price as long as everything works like it should.

ok so new question for you guys. how long should it take for the 4.0 to heat up to opperating temp. i can drive for about 5 min before the gauge hits the half way mark. it does not go any higher than that but it seems to heat up too fast. once i noticed this i have parked the jeep permanitly untill i can get this figured out due to the known issues heat causes.
 
What do you consider halfway? Under normal operating conditions all my "small" gauges (oil/temp/voltage) point straight up at the center of the scale. Normal op temp for a 4.0 is around 205-215 degrees which is right at the middle of the scale.

My XJ takes around 15-20 minutes to get the gauge to the center of the scale, my MJ (with a brand new thermostat) takes about 5 minutes and ~1 mile of city driving to get to the same point. If your thermostat is stuck open or starting to get lazy it'll take a lot longer to warm up, if the temp goes above about 220 under normal conditions I would worry - unless normal conditions include sitting for long periods of time.

Good to hear about the winch, always nice when expensive stuff like that turns out to work and is just set up wrong.
 
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