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YES i've done a search...

69fury

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lawrence KS
I've done a search and seen millions of threads about how to avoid this situation but not many on how to cure the upper shackle weld nut, and none on how to do it without welding

Is there a strong, NON welding method to put a new nut in the frame for the upper shackle bolt to mount to? Using PB Blaster and MAPP gas i've gotten front and rear leaf eyebolts out, and the upper shock mounts out, BUT the driver's upper shackle weld nut tore free, and i'm leaving the passenger side soaking longer (will heat again).

It appears that the nut actually sits in a pocket that bulges the frame rail towards the shackle itself, otherwise i could slide a big ol' washer and new nut in there...

any non welding tricks?
 
What 93gc40 said. In my case, I didn't even drill a hole. I took off my rear bumper and fished a flat washer and new nut in through the access hole. Been there for 5+ years.
 
that's great to know- i haven't gotten the broken weld nut out yet, but saw the "pocket' it sits in for the upper shackle mount. I was concerned that a nut there would not support the frame sufficiently without really cranking the torque and siezing the shackle tight.

if you put a washer in first over the "pocket", is the goal to somewhat crush or "bell" the washer into the pocket to wedge it in/lock it, so that the buldge/pocket/and nut is supporting the jeep instead of the bolt on frame?

My main fear is that the bolt will hammer up and slowly (or quickly) chizel it's way up through the frame rail... I hope i am explaining this adequately.

I already have the bumper off- that's when i noticed the buldge/pocket for the nut.
 
Me, I'd get rid of most of the threads in that weldnut first. If you don't, you'll ruin the threads on the bolt trying to get everything tight.

I used a washer just to make sure the new nut had a good surface to crank down against.
 
Me, I'd get rid of most of the threads in that weldnut first. If you don't, you'll ruin the threads on the bolt trying to get everything tight.

I used a washer just to make sure the new nut had a good surface to crank down against.

I'm not sure what you mean, for the upper and lower shackle mounts it will get new nuts and new bolts. the only thing i will reuse is the weld nuts in the front leaf mount locations- as they didn't break out. I'll see if i can find a tap to chase them out with.

Thanks for the help-i didn't know if a thick fender washer would do the trick of letting the nut support the jeep, and be strong enough to not bell completely and pull through the hole...

I'm thinking of a washer just thick enough to take a bell shape into the pocket and capture the nut a bit. 1/8th inch sound appropriate?

this is my daily driver so i want to get it right and not have the bolt tear up into the frame rail under weight..
 
that's great to know- i haven't gotten the broken weld nut out yet, but saw the "pocket' it sits in for the upper shackle mount. I was concerned that a nut there would not support the frame sufficiently without really cranking the torque and siezing the shackle tight.

if you put a washer in first over the "pocket", is the goal to somewhat crush or "bell" the washer into the pocket to wedge it in/lock it, so that the buldge/pocket/and nut is supporting the jeep instead of the bolt on frame?

My main fear is that the bolt will hammer up and slowly (or quickly) chizel it's way up through the frame rail... I hope i am explaining this adequately.

I already have the bumper off- that's when i noticed the buldge/pocket for the nut.

You have to torque the bolt to mfg spec when you are done. That's some 70 ish ft/lbs. There is a spacer in the bushing and it is meant to be squeezed between the frame and the outer mouting ear, that's what holds it in place and supports the shackle and the Jeep. When the torque is correct, there is no sheer force exerted on the bolt.

Ron
 
You have to torque the bolt to mfg spec when you are done. That's some 70 ish ft/lbs. There is a spacer in the bushing and it is meant to be squeezed between the frame and the outer mouting ear, that's what holds it in place and supports the shackle and the Jeep. When the torque is correct, there is no sheer force exerted on the bolt.

Ron

Ron's the MAN! Got the physics on it! Good point about the center sleeve-I hadn't thought of it being under compression that makes me feel tons better about the whole process.
 
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