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Heim joints vs. Rubber bushings ( LA question)

blacklabel000

NAXJA Forum User
Location
IL
to make a long story short, i orderd four 1 1/4 heim joints and 2 rubber bushings to build my long arms with, and i *PLANNED* on building a 4 link. but after much research i decided to do a 3-link.

im using 2" DOM and im thinking the 1 1/4 joint + the 2" DOM will be too big for my upper arm.

anyway, what are the disadvantages of using heim joints all around instead of rubber on the axle end and heims on the crossmember?

if im unclear please let me know.... sometimes my words dont sound the way they do in my head.

oh and this is my daily driver, but i want it to be as capable as possible on the trail


thanks alot,
-Nick :wave1:
 
Don't use rubber bushings on a 3-link.

Why not. I think the OP is not refering to a radius arm setup(ie: TNT Y-link, and RE). Rubber bushings on one end will help cut down on vibration/harshness. Should work just fine on a 3 link setup(ie: RK).

Craig
 
There is no binding in a 3-link requiring rubber, like in a dual radius arm setup. There is also a lot more stress put on that one upper arm's joints. Rubber will make for sloppy handling and/or wear quickly in that upper arm.
 
Why not. I think the OP is not refering to a radius arm setup(ie: TNT Y-link, and RE). Rubber bushings on one end will help cut down on vibration/harshness. Should work just fine on a 3 link setup(ie: RK).

Craig

You want rubber bushings on a radius arm or 4 - link because they bind.

A 3-link does not bind, and only one UCA controls pinion/caster. Why would you run a rubber bushing?
 
the only reason i got the rubber was to cut down on road noise/vibration, and to not be sloppy. but if that not an issue then im not worried about it
 
My RK kit also has the hard joints. I have considered getting the bushings that RK provides now for one end to help cut down on ride harshness. I wasn't worried about the binding issues that are non existant on a 3 link. Oh well at this time I guess it would be personal preference.

Craig
 
thats weird, all the rk 3 link's ive seen came with both, shitty ass rk joints at the axle, and rk 'monster bushings' (rubber) at the frame...


is the all hard joint kit the one with the tiny joint shanks?
 
Why not. I think the OP is not refering to a radius arm setup(ie: TNT Y-link, and RE). Rubber bushings on one end will help cut down on vibration/harshness. Should work just fine on a 3 link setup(ie: RK).

Craig

it will eat up bushings and have some axle hoppin-wrapping characteristics


thats weird, all the rk 3 link's ive seen came with both, shitty ass rk joints at the axle, and rk 'monster bushings' (rubber) at the frame...

is the all hard joint kit the one with the tiny joint shanks?

i have never seen a rk longarm with rubber bushings anywhere. the 4 link however, needs rubber to compensate for the binding.

and i don't understand the hate on the rk joints. i remember when the grease fittings were made of glass and exploded when you put a grease gun on them. but mine are 5 years old, never even seen a drop of grease and are as tight as new, make no noise.


ok soo rubber is frowned upon on a 3-link. regardless i should go with heims on all 6 ends, correct?


-Nick

correct.

either heims or a rebuildable cartridge joint
 
heres a bad pic, showing the bushingd rk 3link ( and a shity joint)... http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/4812/dscf00122zl2.jpg

the hate on the krawler joint is because its a shitty joint, when compared to a balistic! theres nothing holding the joint together besides threads. ballistic, RE, etc etc all have an extra retaining screw to keep stuff from falling apart, which is what happens.
i understand the idea, it'd cost $200 more to do proper joints, and its a budget thing.
 
heres a bad pic, showing the bushingd rk 3link ( and a shity joint)... http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/4812/dscf00122zl2.jpg

the hate on the krawler joint is because its a shitty joint, when compared to a balistic! theres nothing holding the joint together besides threads. ballistic, RE, etc etc all have an extra retaining screw to keep stuff from falling apart, which is what happens.
i understand the idea, it'd cost $200 more to do proper joints, and its a budget thing.

i have rk and ballistic joints in my setup. the rks are old and fine, never walked out, and the ballistics are about a month old, and creaking. i might have to adjust the preload though and regrease them
 
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