View Full Version : Nut Strip for rear skid?
seanR
September 9th, 2003, 09:53
Does anyone know the P/N for the nut strip that slides into the 'frane rail' for the fuel tank skid plate? It is also used for the Class III hitch install. None of the dealers I talked to are able to find the right part. I need to get my skid pan on soon, time is drawing near!
Ivan
September 9th, 2003, 10:18
52001174 - Passenger's side
52001175 - Driver's side
seanR
September 9th, 2003, 13:18
Thank you
w_howey
September 9th, 2003, 16:43
SeanR, I just did this yesterday.
I got a trick for you, I fed 20lb fishing line thru the frame rail to the back, attached a 1/2" bolt with the flat washers on it, and pulled it to the hole, with the fishing line attached to the bottom of the bolt, they feed right into the holes.
I grabbed the bolt with the vice grips to keep it from turning, until I got it tight enough.
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers were about 3 bucks from Farm and Fleet.
ChiXJeff
September 9th, 2003, 18:41
Originally posted by w_howey
SeanR, I just did this yesterday.
I got a trick for you, I fed 20lb fishing line thru the frame rail to the back, attached a 1/2" bolt with the flat washers on it, and pulled it to the hole, with the fishing line attached to the bottom of the bolt, they feed right into the holes.
I grabbed the bolt with the vice grips to keep it from turning, until I got it tight enough.
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers were about 3 bucks from Farm and Fleet.
There is a difference between your method and the nutstrips, though.
The bolts hang down with your method, and if you ever have to take it off, you deal with road grime and the fact that the carriage bolt likes to spin up there.
With nutstrips, the bolt threads are nicely protected, and everything is pretty darned captive and can't wiggle away from you.
TOZOVR
September 9th, 2003, 18:43
What year XJ?
the strips are a lil different methinks....
rockwerks
September 9th, 2003, 19:02
I jsut helped a guys with his used the fishing line method but tack welded the bolts in place..dont have to worry about tehm coming out
w_howey
September 9th, 2003, 19:21
I didn't think to tack weld them!
But, a little road grime and some turn bolts were better than the 20 bucks a piece the dealer wanted. Plus, the Draw-tite dealer who installed the hitch used bolt with a small square of steel to mount the hitch I removed.
raceready
September 9th, 2003, 20:38
Lets not forget the REALLY important part about the nut strips. Think about how easy it is to tear a bolt out thru sheet metal... The nut strips are at least doubling the frame box and also distributing the force over a huge area compared to nuts on a string, or even to individual nut plates (squares with nuts welded to them). Plus, if you ever would need to remove the hitch, it is a lot easier to put it back on!
Eagle
September 9th, 2003, 23:52
Originally posted by raceready
Lets not forget the REALLY important part about the nut strips. Think about how easy it is to tear a bolt out thru sheet metal... The nut strips are at least doubling the frame box and also distributing the force over a huge area compared to nuts on a string, or even to individual nut plates (squares with nuts welded to them). Plus, if you ever would need to remove the hitch, it is a lot easier to put it back on!
This is correct. None of the fishing line methods -- even the ones with the hitches, with the heavy squares of metal -- are as strong as the factory nut strips.
TOZOVR -- the nut strips are the same for all years. However, as Ivan posted, they are not the same for both sides. Newer years generally have the passenger side strip already there, to support the exhaust hanger.
redjeepguy
September 10th, 2003, 12:37
called the dealership today about getting some of those nutstrips and they want 24.99 for each side. that is a little rediculous. any other options besides the ones listed or any other places to get nutstrips cheaper??
rockwerks
September 10th, 2003, 13:07
You could make your own nut strips....Ive done it for another problem several years ago, Lay a piece of card board under teh frame use a pencil to punch through the holes wher teh bolts go, transfer to a piece of 1" 1/8" stock drill your holes, weld on your nuts (thats gotta Hurt) viola your done
seanR
September 10th, 2003, 15:04
I ordered them yesterday, too late to get them today, but will get them tomarow. I tried ordering them on monday but what came in was some unknown object. I gave them the part number and I think I will get the right thing this time, they call it a 'reinforcement'.
Thanks guys for all the input!
P.S. Jeff, I think I will be able to pull over a brick s**t house now!
Xjdubber
April 23rd, 2006, 11:44
SeanR, I just did this yesterday.
I got a trick for you, I fed 20lb fishing line thru the frame rail to the back, attached a 1/2" bolt with the flat washers on it, and pulled it to the hole, with the fishing line attached to the bottom of the bolt, they feed right into the holes.
I grabbed the bolt with the vice grips to keep it from turning, until I got it tight enough.
Grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers were about 3 bucks from Farm and Fleet.
I did this too, worked great. Untill i hit a crosditch to fast hit the rear receiver and the bolts ripped right trought the rails.
Two lessons learned. Always take the ball out of the receiver before putting the jeep into 4x4. and secondly, Do things the right way!
Matt98XJ
April 23rd, 2006, 12:20
Jesus dude. Look at this old ass thread.
WobblesXJ
April 23rd, 2006, 15:19
it's great that he brought it up though cause I was just searching for the nutstrip part numbers.
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