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renix tps with aw4 adjsutment

blondejoncherokee

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
sacramento
so ive adjusted my tps many times and i always use the plug that reads the closest to the right voltage. that is , there are two plugs going into the renix auto (aw4) tps and the manual always says it needs to be at .8 volts closed throttle( and it ends up being 4.13 volts open throttle) but there are two of them, the other one doesnt read the same. should it? it just reads like 3.64 volts and thats it? which plug should i read from, the square (that is 2x2 prongs) or the slimmer rectangle (that is 1x3 prongs) or are they both supposed to have the same readings?
i know one goes to the ecu and one goes to the tcu right?
 
I use the square plug. I multiply the input voltage by .83 to arrive at the output voltage. On Friday, to verify the accuracy of that procedure, I hooked my Comanche up to the factory DRB-11 scanner and it showed 13%-Closed throttle, just as it's supposed to be.
 
so when you say input voltage you mean the voltage going into it at closed throttle? and then multiply that by .83 then what?
is that supposed to be the voltage at WOT?
so what is your reading for closed throttle, is it what youre calling the input voltage? then what do you do exactly?
i basically adjust the tps until it reads .8v at closed throttle.
so what is your method?
 
Key on. Throttle closed. Engine not running. You will be back probing the square connector leaving it plugged in. Connect the voltmeter negative to the D terminal. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the A terminal. Measure input voltage. Multiply the input voltage by .83. Now connect the voltmeter positive lead to terminal B. The voltage should equal your input voltage times .83. Adjust it so that it is.
 
awesome, thanks! ive never heard of adjusting it that way, the threads i read and the chiltons said differently, but this seems more legit.
 
Haynes and Chilton--toilet paper or fire starters, nothing better for them.
 
here a exerpt from my fms


edit. saw the stick for no fsm :(
 
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Joe, are you referring to the method I used as coming from a Haynes or Chilton? I don't think that's where I got it from since I don't use them. Interesting that I came up with 3.86 volts using the calculation and it was verified as "13% closed" by the DRB which is exactly what it's supposed to be. I couldset it at 4.2 and check it with the DRB for scientific analysis if I were so inclined, but I fear I would be somewhere in the "partial throttle" reading off the DRB.
 
Joe, are you referring to the method I used as coming from a Haynes or Chilton? I don't think that's where I got it from since I don't use them. Interesting that I came up with 3.86 volts using the calculation and it was verified as "13% closed" by the DRB which is exactly what it's supposed to be. I couldset it at 4.2 and check it with the DRB for scientific analysis if I were so inclined, but I fear I would be somewhere in the "partial throttle" reading off the DRB.

No. Your posts have been correct.

I keep seeing people posting that the auto TPS closed throttle output is supposed to be that of the manual TPS, and when called on it they refer to their Haynes or Chilton manuals.

Too generic, and they try and cover too many years. Just not worth the money, IMHO.

Now, if I was trying to re-wire something like an Austin-Healey Sprite from the 60s, from scratch, and it wasn't a resto but just a re-wire, well, then I might use a Haynes.

Guess I was ruined by Motor's manuals. Had to buy a new one about every three years just to be reasonably current. Alldata online is the way to go now, at least for shops.
 
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