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Repainting hatch

camarors8992

NAXJA Forum User
The hatch on my 98 Cherokee has all kinds of rust, so I went to the junk yard and grabbed a perfect replacement hatch, the only hitch is that it's red. I got a quote to have it painted, which was $250. Seems pretty steep to me, and I have a large air compressor, large work space, paint guns, and sanders all at my disposal. So why not use them right ? I want to try and paint this hatch myself, I'm not looking for a perfect paint job, just one that will blend with the factory paint well. I've painted only once before, but the finish came out with lots of orange peel and well that's not acceptable this time. I'm looking for tips, instructions, or any kind of help. ( which kind of paint to buy, where to buy it, how to apply it, and so on )
 
Just start with good prep work. Asuming no dents.

1. Clean the hatch with a good surface cleaner. You can use a specific cleaner. I have used a half and half simple green mx in a spray bottle, with no ill effects after reading an article about it online.

2. Run an orbital sander smoothly over the hatch (320 grit) to knock down any old scratches or chips in the paint.

3. Hand sand or use a scuff pad to get into nooks and crannys.

4. Blow off dust with compressed air, and re clean the surface.

Choose a product line (its better to stick with the same product line, but mixing can be cheaper). I personally use PPG products for the top coat and Transtar primer because its high build and hardens like a rock (I have also had very good luck with the Transtar Euro Clear).

Primer

5. Set your spray gun up (if you have extra tips a 1.7mm tip is advisable for primer but not needed) Set pressure depending on type of spray gun being used.

6. Spray a light tack coat that barely covers the panel and be sure to hit all the hard spots first. Wait 10-15 minutes in between coats for flash time. Give it enough coats for good coverage. I usually do 4-6 with primer. Let Dry over night.

7. Wet sand the primer. I tend to use 400-600 grit wet sand paper wrapped around a block for even pressure. (Re sanding the primer is a crucial step for a good paint job, even if the primer is smooth. It helps adhesion and releases trapped isocyanates and solvents which could peel paint eventually).

8. Re spot prime any spots that were broken through by wet sanding.

Basecoat

9. Mix paint with the additives depending on product line. (Be sure to shake color well before hand for better match)

10. Set up spray gun ( 1.3mm tip generally used) Pressure depending on gun.

11. Repeat process of primer. Get good coverage. Flash time. Hard spots first. ( I was told to spray color like a "wild man" go crazy with it and make sure you covered everything for a consistant color with no tiger stripes).

At this point you pretty much have two options. Go immediately into clear coat. Or let dry and than clear later. There are pros and cons to each. (Imediately= quicker, only clean the gun once after the job yata yata..... Later= More time to inspect work...with more probability of dust in the clearcoat. AKA go with quicker).

12. Mix clear coat while you are waiting for basecoat flash time. Pour directly into the gun, dont bother cleaning gun in between base and clear coat, all comes out the same.

13. Hard spots first.

14. Lay it on thin at first but still wet.

15. Keep the clear as wet as you can without running it. Make sure to overlap your last stroke 50/50. (Good Idea with everything. Causes tiger stripes in base, causes dry spots in clear).

16. Give it about 6 coats until it is glossy. ( Alot of factors effect clear coat. Temperature, cold will lay flatter, but more chance for runs. Air pressure in the gun is vital, do alot of research)

Let dry for a few days.

If you got orange peel.......... Take out the 1500 grit wet sand paper and work your way up to 2000 or even 3000 without breaking through. Sand out that orange peel, be patient, it will come out. And than run a buffer over it with some good compound.

Than you can count your nose hairs in it :)

Hope this helped. I was bored.
 
Holy hell what are you spraying with a 1.7 tip Slicksand? Most primers only require a 1.4, maybe 1.5 tip tops. I've never seen anyone use a 1.7 unless it's a SUPER high build primer.

Other than that the above advice seems pretty decent. People like to make this a super complicated process, but when in doubt, read the product tech sheet! It will answer 99% of the questions you might be confused about.

6 coats of clear is a little over the top. Maybe if you're doing a candy job with intercoat clears, graphics, and such. But for a normal respray, stick with 3 coats. One light(er) coat, flash, and two flow coats.

Anything labeled "euro" is generally bottom of the pile, super fast drying, and CHEAP. It's designed for production shops that can pump out cars as fast as they come in.

I highly recommend SPI's products. For the money, they just can't be beat. Their universal clear is second to none, and very easy to use. Not to mention it buffs out like you wouldn't believe. Their epoxy primer is also amazing, and can be used as a great sealer if reduced. The guys over there are super nice too, feel free to call with any questions.

For paint, ProSpray is decently cheap (but quality) basecoat. Meaning you'll get away with 3 coats over your primer instead of the 6 or 7 you would spray with Omni or some other garbage. You failed to mention what color you'll be spraying the hatch. That can be a huge factor to the price, and coverage of the paint.
 
This is the current hatch, not sure of the exact name, I was just going to bring the paint code to a local auto body shop and have them make the color up for me. As far as the tips and what not I have no idea what the gun currently has, but I'd imagine I can pick up a new tip for it ? I think I'm going to print out silents post and follow his instructions. I don't need a show car paint job, just something similar to stock.


100_3532.jpg
 
do you have rear headrest??????!!!!!!?????
 
Just start with good prep work. Asuming no dents.

1. Clean the hatch with a good surface cleaner. You can use a specific cleaner. I have used a half and half simple green mx in a spray bottle, with no ill effects after reading an article about it online.

2. Run an orbital sander smoothly over the hatch (320 grit) to knock down any old scratches or chips in the paint.

3. Hand sand or use a scuff pad to get into nooks and crannys.

4. Blow off dust with compressed air, and re clean the surface.

Choose a product line (its better to stick with the same product line, but mixing can be cheaper). I personally use PPG products for the top coat and Transtar primer because its high build and hardens like a rock (I have also had very good luck with the Transtar Euro Clear).

Primer

5. Set your spray gun up (if you have extra tips a 1.7mm tip is advisable for primer but not needed) Set pressure depending on type of spray gun being used.

6. Spray a light tack coat that barely covers the panel and be sure to hit all the hard spots first. Wait 10-15 minutes in between coats for flash time. Give it enough coats for good coverage. I usually do 4-6 with primer. Let Dry over night.

7. Wet sand the primer. I tend to use 400-600 grit wet sand paper wrapped around a block for even pressure. (Re sanding the primer is a crucial step for a good paint job, even if the primer is smooth. It helps adhesion and releases trapped isocyanates and solvents which could peel paint eventually).

8. Re spot prime any spots that were broken through by wet sanding.

Basecoat

9. Mix paint with the additives depending on product line. (Be sure to shake color well before hand for better match)

10. Set up spray gun ( 1.3mm tip generally used) Pressure depending on gun.

11. Repeat process of primer. Get good coverage. Flash time. Hard spots first. ( I was told to spray color like a "wild man" go crazy with it and make sure you covered everything for a consistant color with no tiger stripes).

At this point you pretty much have two options. Go immediately into clear coat. Or let dry and than clear later. There are pros and cons to each. (Imediately= quicker, only clean the gun once after the job yata yata..... Later= More time to inspect work...with more probability of dust in the clearcoat. AKA go with quicker).

12. Mix clear coat while you are waiting for basecoat flash time. Pour directly into the gun, dont bother cleaning gun in between base and clear coat, all comes out the same.

13. Hard spots first.

14. Lay it on thin at first but still wet.

15. Keep the clear as wet as you can without running it. Make sure to overlap your last stroke 50/50. (Good Idea with everything. Causes tiger stripes in base, causes dry spots in clear).

16. Give it about 6 coats until it is glossy. ( Alot of factors effect clear coat. Temperature, cold will lay flatter, but more chance for runs. Air pressure in the gun is vital, do alot of research)

Let dry for a few days.

If you got orange peel.......... Take out the 1500 grit wet sand paper and work your way up to 2000 or even 3000 without breaking through. Sand out that orange peel, be patient, it will come out. And than run a buffer over it with some good compound.

Than you can count your nose hairs in it :)

Hope this helped. I was bored.

Helpful yes. I'm thinking about trying to paint myself. Thanks for the tips. Happy to hear anything else you have.
 
oh nice? Is that a direct swap, shoot, im sure there tons of right ups so im just gonna do a search :thumbup:

but thats sounds very cool idea, specially cause My new harness seats dont match my stock bench anyways.

any progress on your rear hatch? I would probably have a body shop match the paint if you really want it to match, but it would probably run you about $200. maybe you could find a nice green hatch at the junkyard, even if its not your forest green, it could still look nice.
 
Other than stripping the hatch down there hasn't been any progress. Painters keep bailing on me, and I'm not really feeling doing it myself. I tend to nitpick so my amature attempt more than likely wouldn't sit well.
 
Heck yeah,

Thanks for the write up! I'm wanting to re-do my Jeep, some random rusty spots and brush-rash all over. This will help tons!
 
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