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Who has a locked 35 and 31 or larger tires?

saleen9973

NAXJA Forum User
Location
new york
Hey guys just wondering if any of you guys have a d35 with a locker and 31's or bigger and have done it for a while? I have a 93 8.25 sitting in my parts xj but my 91 has a d35 in it. I want to lock the rear and i will be putting 31's on it. I dont do many rocks just tough trails and mud mostly.
 
i have a locked 35 ('99) on 31's. i am running 4.11's, a detroit, a riddler cover, and a 4.6 stroker. been running that combination for 3 years, doing blue/black trails at Rausch (wet rocks + mud)

every time i go out, i feel like it is going to break. swap in the 8.25

I just finished setting up the gears in my XJ44 this afternoon :D
 
Well I have a 2001 with the d35 c clip with a lock right and beat on it pretty hard, I finally snapped a shaft. It was pita. If you have the 8.25 and the gears are the same swap it but if the 8.25 needs gears to match your front then you could go with a locker in the 35. Its cheaper but just expect sooner or later for it to snap.
 
8.25 is all around better, can't lose with it, like stated in other posts d35 is a time bomb waiting to go, i have fixed them in wranglers with 4 cyl and stock tires
 
If you already have an 8.25 ready to swap in, why are you even asking about running the 35? The answer is clear: swap the 8.25 and then lock that.

Search the forums, there's been plenty of discussion about the 35.
 
gears and locker for a 35 is roughly say 600 bucks. a 8.25 can be had for aorund 100 all the time. so a better axle with the same setup for 100 more? you cant make that happen? because you should. or buy an 8.8 with 4.10s for like 200...which is also easy to find for 200 on car part.com
 
I've been running 4.56 gears and a Detroit with Cro-Mo axles in my d35 for over two years now without any issues. I suppose its all in how you anticipate to use the setup and if you're a throttle junkie. I'm also rolling on 33x10.50 BFG ATs knowing that if I run larger or wider tires, I'm severly limited on remaining strength and could suffer a major failure sooner than later. If you understand what your weak links are and avoid situations and driving styles that would be mechanically detrimental, you'll be fine with the set-up you are describing. You're more than likely going spend more money on trusses and gussets to gain additional strength in the d35's already weak housing, than if you went with the beefier 8.25.
Otherwise, slap that 8.25 in and be done with it once and for all!!
 
gears and locker for a 35 is roughly say 600 bucks. a 8.25 can be had for aorund 100 all the time. so a better axle with the same setup for 100 more? you cant make that happen? because you should. or buy an 8.8 with 4.10s for like 200...which is also easy to find for 200 on car part.com
X2. I got my 8.8 for 100 bucks with 4.10s, spent 25 on perches (32 new, got em off another member), 50 on Ubolts, 20 on the adapter flange, 30 on 1/2" plate to make Ubolt plates, 150 on all new brake hardware, and (completely optional) 100 on a ruffstuff cover for it. That's $475 for disc brakes, 4.10:1 gear upgrade, and a stronger axle all at once - $375 effectively because my old axle still had/has a stock cover. You can't even get any one of those upgrades for that price nevermind all three.

Problem - the 8.8 has a massive pumpkin and is going to drag more than a 35, but then again it's not going to break in half like a 35 either.

EDIT: you're in upstate new york right? Depending on how far it is to central mass from where you're at, and junkyard availability, bug me a few days before the weekend sometime after snow melts and I'll help you pull an 8.8, I'm usually there saturdays with a sawzall.
 
Thanks for the replys guys. I have the 8.25 in my 93 parts xj. I believe it has 3.55's in it. I am going to toss my new 31 firestone destination muds on the d35 for now and wheel it. While i am wheeling the D35 open i will save up for a lock right for the 8.25, and maybe stronger axles.
 
If that 8.25 is coming out of a 93 then there is a good chance it is the 27spline setup. Which means that it might not be the best option to swap in either. Although because it will bolt right in, i would still recommend swaping it in, you want the 29 spline 8.25 though. I believe they are more common 96+.

My dad runs a d35, with a posi unit on 33/12.5's i been with him twice wheeling where he has snapped a shaft. It sucks, can make for a very long recovery and a totally ruined day.

If you plan to go larger tires some day, IMO, take kastein up on his offer and go find an 8.8.
 
Yes its a 27 spline axle. I have a junkyard about 5 miles from my house that probably has a 96+ in the yard. I will check in the spring. But for now i will run the D35 open with some 31" muds and hope it doesn't break.
 
If that 8.25 is coming out of a 93 then there is a good chance it is the 27spline setup. Which means that it might not be the best option to swap in either. Although because it will bolt right in, i would still recommend swaping it in, you want the 29 spline 8.25 though. I believe they are more common 96+.

My dad runs a d35, with a posi unit on 33/12.5's i been with him twice wheeling where he has snapped a shaft. It sucks, can make for a very long recovery and a totally ruined day.

If you plan to go larger tires some day, IMO, take kastein up on his offer and go find an 8.8.
A 27 spline 8.25 becomes a 29 spline when you get a 29 spline carrier and shafts. They'll swap right into the 27 spline housing.
 
Yes its a 27 spline axle. I have a junkyard about 5 miles from my house that probably has a 96+ in the yard. I will check in the spring. But for now i will run the D35 open with some 31" muds and hope it doesn't break.
If it's a 96 you need to pull a shaft to check spline count - no one really knows the changeover date but it was somewhere in 96. Still, not bad, you probably should change the gear lube anyways so it's not really a loss having to pull the cover. Aim for a 97+ if you want to just be sure that it's a 29 spline.
 
Right now i dont plan on running over 31's but every body says that then a few years later they want 35+ right? I have a 4.5 RC lift and i dont want to cut up my xj hence the 31's.
 
Yeah... I was going to stay with 2" of lift and stock tires... then my lift ended up being 3.5" by accident and it looked silly, and I saw some 32s for cheap, then when the 32s wore out all the way I couldn't find 32s for cheap and treadwright had 33s for cheaper than I could get 32s elsewhere...

oops.

on those grounds I'd say keep the 35 till it breaks I guess, or till you get a chance to swap in the 8.25, whichever comes first.
 
I've been running 4.56 gears and a Detroit with Cro-Mo axles in my d35 for over two years now without any issues. I suppose its all in how you anticipate to use the setup and if you're a throttle junkie. I'm also rolling on 33x10.50 BFG ATs knowing that if I run larger or wider tires, I'm severly limited on remaining strength and could suffer a major failure sooner than later. If you understand what your weak links are and avoid situations and driving styles that would be mechanically detrimental, you'll be fine with the set-up you are describing. You're more than likely going spend more money on trusses and gussets to gain additional strength in the d35's already weak housing, than if you went with the beefier 8.25.
Otherwise, slap that 8.25 in and be done with it once and for all!!

I've been wondering this. I bought my 99XJ with 4.56's, 30 spline USA alloy's and an ARB in the 35; basically a Super35.

After all the reading, no I wouldn't have spent that kind of money on a D35, but I bought the Jeep right and am now wondering how well it will do. I have some worn 34x10.50 LTB's that I just grooved, but haven't had it out yet. (Front isn't done)
 
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