90' manual trans-hard shifting

Hey guys, so I've been having more and more trouble shifting into 1st and out of 1st gear. I've literally had to use both arms before, and even though I'm a lady I do believe that is ridiculous. I'm wondering if maybe it's the gear grabber(control arm?) or maybe just the slave.

It's not too hard to get into REV. The clutch isn't as forgiving as my girlfriends' 88 Celica. There is more of a balance between gas and clutch needed on this one though.

He also loses 500+ rpm when idle semi-frequently. But I can tap the gas to make it catch up sometimes...

Any ideas? How to check things? I'd like to be able to check these things myself and go to a mechanic if the job is super heavy.

Thanks much!

When's the last time the trans oil was changed?

If the oil hasn't been changed, it'd be a good idea to drain & refill. Keep your eyes on what comes out. I'd expect to see flecks of bronze, those would be the worn bits from your synchronizers. Me, I'd use synthetic oil, I also live in a rather cooler climate.

Another possibility is that your clutch is nearly worn out.

Another thing to try is shifting the lever into 2nd, before going into 1st. See if that helps.

1. DO NOT use GL-5 in the AX15 gear box--it was printed in some of the owner's manuals but GL-5 contains materials that will dissolve the yellow-metal synchros in the AX15. GL-3 is yellow-metal safe and if you can find straight GL-3 it is fine to use.

2. You need YELLOW-METAL SAFE lubrication for the AX15. Options: Red Line MTL 90; Pennzoil Synchromesh; genuine GL-3; a GL-3/GL-4/GL-5 marked "Yellow Metal Safe"; ANY quality 10w30 synthetic motor oil (I personally use Mobil-1); Chryco genuine synthetic--about $20 a quart at a dealer near you.

3. If you don't know what lubricant is in the transmission, change it. If you can't remember the last time it was changed, change it. If you have had it serviced someplace, change it.

The synthetic 10w30 will give an easier shift, especially in cold weather.

Now, about that transfer case--any ATF will do, I use Mobil-1 Dex III.

For the idle, try cleaning the throttle body and IAC with a throttle body safe aerosol spray. Use cotton-tipped swaps and an old toothbrush to clean the IAC--be careful, you can break it. Check/adjust the TPS.

If after you have changed the trans fluid and driven it a couple hundred miles it still wants to hang going into first gear, try pumping the clutch a couple times before you shift. Also, how does the actual shifter "feel"? They will wear out.

Last but never least, how are your engine and transmission mounts?

When draining the transmission and transfer case, ALWAYS remove the fill plug first. That way if it is stuck you won't end up with a dry trans/t-case.

Excellent advice from Joe there. Your symptoms do sound like worn out synchros. A fluid change to 10W-30 motor oil or a good synthetic would be an easy first step. If it's still bad, then you're looking at a rebuild to replace the synchros.

It could also be a clutch issue, particularly if you're getting any grinding trying to get it in gear. Although really torn up synchros will start to cause grinding as well.

check the level and condition of the clutch hydraulic fluid at the clutch master. pop the hood open, the clutch master resovoir is by the brake booster.

I had the same problem with a 87 manual trans, 200k plus miles. I changed the fluid, helped slightly. Basically everything joe said. In order for me to put it into first I had to put it into second first, my synchros were shot!

i had a shifting issue similar to this but i've changed the fluid (RP syn 10w30) and it seems better. What can cause my car to almost always grind when i shift in reverse though?

skylinergtr said:

i had a shifting issue similar to this but i've changed the fluid (RP syn 10w30) and it seems better. What can cause my car to almost always grind when i shift in reverse though?

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Worn shifter (less likely), clutch disengagement isn't complete (less likely), worn synchros (most likely). Try shifting in and out of a couple other gears before trying to shift into reverse, that helps sometime.

skylinergtr said:

i had a shifting issue similar to this but i've changed the fluid (RP syn 10w30) and it seems better. What can cause my car to almost always grind when i shift in reverse though?

Click to expand...

The reverse gear doesn't have a synchro. A synchros basically gets the gears spinning the same speed before they try to mesh. So if the input gear is free spinning a bit (say you just had it in neutral with the clutch out), it can clash when you go for reverse. The easy fix is to shift into one of the forward gears first to get the input side to stop free-wheeling.

Okay so sorry guys it's been a while...busy work/school. I changed the oil and there were flecks of brass in it. I tried to change the filter too but the stupid wrench broke while I was using it, bad bad welding...

I'm going to change the lubricant tomorrow, but I'm not sure about my clutch fluid yet.
However, my clutch does NOT feel worn out. It's not a forgiving clutch at all, but it still feels pretty solid.

It's driving around smoother since the change already, I also decided to do the air filter/clean out the reservoir while I was at it.

Does anyone have an idea on a ballpark for a synchro rebuild? It still feels like it will be problematic for sure...

what filter did you try to change?

vikingsaretough said:

Okay so sorry guys it's been a while...busy work/school. I changed the oil and there were flecks of brass in it. I tried to change the filter too but the stupid wrench broke while I was using it, bad bad welding...

I'm going to change the lubricant tomorrow, but I'm not sure about my clutch fluid yet.
However, my clutch does NOT feel worn out. It's not a forgiving clutch at all, but it still feels pretty solid.

It's driving around smoother since the change already, I also decided to do the air filter/clean out the reservoir while I was at it.

Does anyone have an idea on a ballpark for a synchro rebuild? It still feels like it will be problematic for sure...

Click to expand...

did you change the engine oil and broke the wrench for the filter??? brass in engine oil???


your post is very confusing.

vikingsaretough said:

Does anyone have an idea on a ballpark for a synchro rebuild? It still feels like it will be problematic for sure...

Click to expand...

I paid $180 for a "bearing & brass" kit from a local tranny parts supply house. That had all the bearings except one, which rarely needs replaced (I don't recall which it was), plus the synchros and input/output seals. It did the whole thing starting on a fri night pulling the tranny, rebuilt it over sat, and reinstalled Sunday. A bearing press is almost a necessity, although I made do with a gear puller modified to have really long arms, and a huge rubber mallet.

Rebuilt AX15's go for $600-$880 on eBay.