Hard joints on both ends of short LCA's?

I've had an RE 4.5" superflex kit for almost 2 years now and I'm tired of the crappy bushings on the LCA's. I waited forever to replace the first trashed set, and just a few months later and only 2 wheeling trips, this set is wasted as well. I know they were having issues with their supplier, but I bought my replacements after they supposedly fixed the problem...

Anyway, I can't swing the dough for a longarm kit just yet. Would it be ok if I cut off the poly bushing end of the RE LCA and welded in a tube adapter for some sort of hard joint (Ballistic/Johnny Joint/RE flexjoint)? This would give me adjustable lower arms as well, which I'd like to fix the shortened wheelbase. I'll still have factory style bushings on the axle side of the UCA, so there will be some give. I'm not worried about NVH, it's a damn jeep, I just want to make sure there won't be any binding that will rip off the axle mounts.

Oh, and anyone know the ID of the RE arms?

Pretty sure it'll ride like ass with hard-joints on both ends. Every little bump will be transferred up into the rig. I'm guessing it'll also be hard on the arms and joints, as there will be no rubber or poly to absorb the jarring, likely leading to broken or quickly wearing joints.

fubar XJ said:

Pretty sure it'll ride like ass with hard-joints on both ends. Every little bump will be transferred up into the rig. I'm guessing it'll also be hard on the arms and joints, as there will be no rubber or poly to absorb the jarring, likely leading to broken or quickly wearing joints.

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I don't think it'll be all that bad, it's not like I'm going rock racing or anything. In my '03 Mustang GT, I had replaced every single bushing in the front suspension with either heim joints or Delrin bushings and it was my daily driver. The springs and shocks are still there, so they'll still be absorbing the bumps.

I just want to make sure I'm not creating any binding in my suspension.

sunburned said:

Oh, and anyone know the ID of the RE arms?

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1.25"

^^ Gracias.

Why not weld on some OEM bushing cradles and have the best of both worlds.

I guess I could always do the Ballistic poly joints as well. Greaseable, replaceable, and still have adjustable arms. I just figured the flex type joints would be the best.

sunburned said:

I just want to make sure I'm not creating any binding in my suspension.

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The stock 4 link binds. I think.

I don't know if it'd be different for the short arms, but my long arms have hard joints at both ends and it's not that bad. Don't know if the different geometry plays a big role or not though.

yeah LAs would be different. If the stock 4 link was parallel it wouldn't bind, but with the angles of the upper links it binds.

Goatman or Vetteboy or anyone who knows the ins and outs of the front suspension? I really don't want to post this on pirate lol.

Have you considered drop brackets at all? I was going through bushings left and right until I got a set of RE drop brackets, since then I havent had a problem with bushing life, I mean they don't last forever but they live as long as can be excpected. I recently installed the moog problem solver bushings and they transmit lots of road noise and vibration so that's something to take into consideration.

My .02

in a 4 link with trackbar you need a source of deflection in the control arms, usually achieved by rubber bushings

in a radius arm or "y link" suspension you need a source of deflection in the control arms, also achieved by rubber bushings

in a 3 link you need hard joints at each arm to aid in controlling axle wrap (well if you baby your rig you can probably get away with using some rubber bushings in there)

in a triangulated 4 link (which you pretty much never see on the front of a full bodied xj, and if you do see it, it's done pretty ghetto) you need hard joints on each arm to aid in keeping the axle centered under the rig

The ride would definitely depend on the angle your arms sit. I use heim joints on both ends of my long arm kits and they are great. It actually adds stability and its nicer to drive because its not so soft feeling so when you turn, the jeep actually turns. You do feel every crack in the road but i deal with it because of the handling. if your arms are at a pretty steep angle then you might feel some jarring, its something you would have to try out. I do believe you would have less chance of binding or limiting on a hard joint verse a bushing.

You don't want to run hard joints with a 4 link. If you did just the lowers in all hard joints then the deflection is transfered to the uppers, making them bind more and wear out sooner. I have all hiems with my 3 link and while it is not as vibration free as would be if you used bushings, it is more solid and feels 100000x better. For your application i would find some good rubber joints to use on one end. I personally like the RE Superide joints because they seem to not work their way out of the sleeve like rusty's.