Best SYE

[MUDTRUK]

Looking around for a SYE and driveshaft for my MJ and was wondering what is the best kit to purchase? Not looking for a cheap one, I want a good qualtiy one and also a good cv driveshaft. Anyone have a good experience to pass on? thanks, Judd :)

[ChuckD]

Well if money isn't a factor then I would have to say a new Atlas t-case would be the best of all the SYE's :D

[sidriptide]

i dont think he meant it that way chuck... i guess most sye kits are the same.... with the only dif being if its a kit with a new shaft or a hack n tap..... hard ware is basically the same... if money and time are not an issue i would do the kit with a new shaft.. and freshen up the inside of the t/case while im in there... new chain and maybe a 3.8:1 low range kit too.. i'm about to buy a Rubicon Express SYE kit and d/shaft soon myself..
mike

[Yucca-Man]

Since XJChuck started it, how about a NV241OR from a Rubicon? 4:1 low - I'm thinking it would fit nicely in my XJ, too...

In the meantime I've got an RE Hack-n-Tap enroute. If I felt like throwing more $$$ into it I'd say a beefier output shaft along with the SYE would have been a better investment.

[RCP Phx]

What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.

[bradlyw]

Originally posted by RCP Phx
What transfer case do you have?There'es only 2 out there(for the 231) and I would say they are the same.The RE kits are bandaids and do not fix the problem(they may fix the symtoms).If I had bought an HD kit up front I would have saved about $200+.

:rolleyes:

then ur saying that all of tom woods kits are just band-aids and every kit out there except for the JB conversions and AA kit are bad-aids? because they are all "hack and taps" just with the kits other then RE...the company does it for u. still a stock output shaft...still a new tail cone. bottom line

Brad

[RCP Phx]

What are you trying to say?Yes,all the other kits(RE,TW,MIT,Currie)are all band-aids to a poor design by Jeep.Only the AA and JB kits address the problem!

[MUDTRUK]

Guess I'll be looking for a JB or AA sye kit, how about driveshafts? I have a 231 tcase, thanks, Judd

[stoneattic]

RCP Phx

I thought the problem is the inability of the stock driveshaft to handle the angles from the t-case to rear axle. If that's the case then anything that puts a double cardan joint in solves that problem. The kits that come with the shorter tailshaft/housing are better, as they allow for a shorter driveshaft thus reducing the angle, but as long as the angles are within the correct operating range for the cardan joint then the other kits that don't provide for a longer drive shaft are fine.

If the problem is something else please let me know.

[bradlyw]

Stoneattic has it right. the only thing that the JB and AA sye's do different then the other kits is that they have a bigger output shaft. the bottom line is if u need the big output shaft then u probably need to be running something stronger then a 231 or 242. then its time to start thinking atlas II or a d300

Brad

[Anthropy]

Please clarify AA and JB for the great unwashed out here. Also, I have seen Rubicon Express, as an example, with two different kits. One is around $100 and the other is around $250 and has more parts.

Tom

[BUCKYXJ]

Advanced adapters are the only two I have helped install and I like the HD output shaft myself. As for stock shaft I have seen two of them bend by my buddy (Tolly) who had a RE hack and tap in one and stock slip yolk in the other. In both of his TJ's. We are doing a AA sye in his this week. He is pretty hard on the throttle though

[bradlyw]

i was about to say bucky...tolly kinda deserved the tailshaft to bed on the jeep though...if it hadnt bent though...the aluminum case very well may have gave way...so...maybe its not a bad thing it bent.

Brad

[ChuckD]

If you want the best SYE for the 231, get either the JB or AA SYE Kit. The RE kit, if you really look at it is only a deal for the later XJ's the earlier ones might as well go to the HD kits for the extra $50.

[MUDTRUK]

okay so I'm gonna have the tcase open, what else should I replace? Might as well do it since I'm gonna have it cracked open anyways, judd

[RCP Phx]

The real problem is the loading on the shaft due to the amount of "un-supported" shaft after the bearing.If your talking early XJ's then the price is almost a wash.If were talking about 97+ then you will benifit even more.

With the exception of the 97+ RE kit,the JB and AA kits are the same price as the modified stock shafts but they are Heavy Duty.

[PhatXJ]

AA SS SYE & TW CV DS

[Ralph]

Originally posted by PhatXJ
AA SS SYE & TW CV DS
:guitar:
...and now I know my abc's, next time won't you sing with me.

You will find out that cracking the 231 is not a big deal. So, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

The JB Conversions and Advanced Adapters heavy duty SYE's are well worth the extra cost. Do it right the first time.

RR3

[ChuckD]

You may want to replace the chain, you can upgrade to the larger chain but you have to replace the sprockets to. Then if you add it all up, $250 SYE + $100 chain + ~$200 sprockets = $550, that puts me way too close to a new Tcase all together.

[KarmirXJ]

I was about to do a SYE for my XJ too.. but then again the gears started turning.... get it? the 'gears'?:D

$250 SYE
$100 HD Chain
$200 HD sprockets (HD planetary Gears)

you got $550 into your shit box 231


then I went ahead and unplugged my brain and bought a D300 FLIP KIT for $550 SHIPPED (4x4groupbuy had a special think they still do if you beg enough):D

sold my shit box for $150 and bought a nice D300 for 150-175 (cant remember)

called up AA for their CLOCKING RING, and they new imput gear for $150.
(you dont need a clocking ring. You can get away with just a spacer ~$80)

Now for $700 dollars I have Gear driven:D Steal cased:D twin sticked:D CLocked flat:D Fixed yoked:D 8" shorter than 231:D D300:D

up to you... like said before
If your gonna do it..... Do it right the first time.

[MUDTRUK]

wow KarmirXJ you really got me thinking now. guess that a D300 is a much better tcase and would be sweet to have a twin stick shifter, gonna definitley be looking at this as a solution. hey KarmirXJ got anymore info for me on your tcase, like what company makes the clockingring? and what do you mean "you don't need a clocking ring. You can get away w/ a spacer for$80"??? thanks, look forward to some replies!!!!!!

[RCP Phx]

You can also buy a brand new 231HD w/ 6 planetary,wide chain,and HD SYE for $925.Nothing to do but install it!

[KarmirXJ]

why would you spend $1G on a brand spankin new S}{|t box?:eek:



[EDIT] Oh ya it dont even have 4:1 :eek:

[MUDTRUK]

So Karmir, do I need the clocking ring or just the spacer? Who makes this stuff for the D300??????? Got any pics of the install?? Am I asking for a lot?? LOL

[PhatXJ]

Originally posted by Ralph
:guitar:
...and now I know my abc's, next time won't you sing with me.

Hooked on Phonics worked for you!!!! :D :D

[KarmirXJ]

pics are in the works.
im finished with the project. I tell you I am so glad i did it and ditched the **** box.

who makes it

DownEastoffroad makes this kit
http://4x4groupbuy.com/currentGroupBuys/images/Danabg.jpg

4x4groupbuy (http://4x4groupbuy.com/currentGroupBuys/productDetails.asp?productID=50) has it... I got it for $550 shipped to my door. talk to Jason his really a nice guy to deal with. I got my 37s from him... he topped all of the MTR distributers. thats a plus in my book.:)

included all the seals. and AA twin stick shifter that the Atlas uses.
no. you do not need to have a clocking ring. I used it because I have a flat skid that goes underneath it. Blitz im sure has one specially for the rotated D300. (youll need 7/8" spaceer to be exact)

the Only PITA is the shifters. You need to cut your consule and trim the shifter whole in your tranny tunnel. but all in all im very glad I did it..

I will post pics as soon as i get my digi from the repair shop.:(

[Dirk Funk]

I have to throw in a vote for the AA SYE from Tom Woods with his HD driveshaft. Best investment I have ever made on the Jeep. I know that my t-case can now handle anything I will throw at it.

[MUDTRUK]

Sweet Karmir, thanks for the help. Definitely post the pics when available, again thanks, Judd definitely the way I'm leaning now is to put a D300 in my junk!

[MUDTRUK]

Karmir, does anyone make an adapter to bolt the D300 to an AW4 4speed auto behind a 4.0???

[KarmirXJ]

you dont need an adapter, its bolts up... alteast to my Aw4:D:D:D


you can do it one of two ways.

1. you need a 7/8" spacer cuz the input on the xcase a bit too long, ytou can either go with a spacer ring, or a clocking ring(I went with a clocking ring to kill 2 birds with 1 stone:D). there is alot of info on this on here. and Pirate4x4.com search youll find some good info.

2. you can grind off the edge of the alluminum input housing and eliminate the need of a spacer. this can be done by two ways. 1 do it yourself with a mill/ hacksaw /grinder (whatever works best for you) or you can call AA, they ahve the correct housing+ it comes with a sealed bearing. (dont think it will cost you over $50)

hope this helps

[KarmirXJ]

there is one more IMPORTANT thing I forgot to mention about flipped D300 in general...


D300 bolt pattern is NOT symetrical if you flip the D300 the bolt pattern will NOT line up.

there is only 2 cures for this.

1. there are special rings just for clocked 300s out their, one would be 'Blitz cranker' Email Cary Morgan (mailto:Blitz@reach.net) about it.

2. you have to redrill your tranny bolt pattern (this is what I did) 2 of the 6 bolts will not line with the tranny bolt pattern, it will be the 1 oclock bolt, and the 3 oclock bolt, that will NOT line up, they need to be oblongated
hope this helps..




[EDIT] I found this site on flipped d300s, she did a nice rightup on here site...
http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/d300.html

[MUDTRUK]

Karmir, again thanks a million for the help, it is very much appreciated, Judd