First engine swap question..

I have an 87 renix and am going to be doing a swap for a 97 HO. Ive read, and read, and read some more and just wanna make sure i have this straight (It will be staying renix).

1. I need to swap all the old sensors, distributor, flywheel, cps, alternator and injectors.

2. Since I will be using the block, and head from the HO, I will need to move the temp sensor to the thermostat housing (there is no hole on the head), and the knock sensor hole might need to be drilled and tapped (not a worry though if i decide to tuck it away).

3. If the exhisting fuel rail does not have the return system used with the renix system, then It will need to be modified so that it does (again, not a worry).

Now, the only place i get messed up is when it comes to the intake/exhast manifolds. I will have both manifolds for both engines. I dont know whether to use the HO manifolds, or the renix. I realize if i use the HO intake, the renix TPS needs to be adapted. However, if I decide to use the renix manifolds, will they line up right for mating with the 97 HO?

I know this issue has been beat up...think i just read so much I confused myself and wanted to make sure i got it straight.

Thanks
jmeti000

I believe the HO manifolds can be adapted to work with the RENIX head - but it's better to swap the manifolds along with the short block and adapter the TPS instead (easier mechanically, too.)

Swap over the exhaust header as well - and if you have access to the downpipe, that's good as well. If you're not subject to the whims and dicta of the Air Police, that means you'll be able to ditch that asinine EGR setup as part of the swap - which is a nice little bonus (I shan't give my opinion WRT EGR on RENIX - it would end up getting this thread shut down, most likely.)

The knock sensor simply needs a solid mechanical connexion - so a blind hole is fine. Just make sure the thing won't bottom out before it hits the block.

The HO thermostat housing will work with the RENIX head (which you're ditching anyhow,) and the boss on the head went unmachined in the later years - it's still there, and you should be able to see the flat bit for it. You can drill and tap that 1/8" NPT - just watch it with the tap. Ideally, you want to tap to leave ~three full threads out when hand-tight, and you'll turn the thing about 1/3-turn to seal. Just a thought...

I just installed the Renix intake and HO exhaust on my 92 HO motor yesterday. If you stick with the Renix intake, you don't have to mess with different accelerator or throttle valve cables. A fair warning, and not a big issue, when using the Renix intake with the better HO exhaust manifold, you will have to grind a little bit off the lower edges of the intake manifold front and rear where they touch the header flange. No big deal probably less than a quarter inch and it will be obvious, Also be sure to use the Renix intake/exhaust gasket to insure good sealing. The HO gasket doesn't have enough coverage. The coolant temp SENSOR, not the one for the gauge, can be installed in the lower left of the block near the knock sensor by removing a coolant jacket pipe plug. Beware the tool needed is 7/16" square drive and can be a bear to find.

cruiser54 said:

I just installed the Renix intake and HO exhaust on my 92 HO motor yesterday. If you stick with the Renix intake, you don't have to mess with different accelerator or throttle valve cables. A fair warning, and not a big issue, when using the Renix intake with the better HO exhaust manifold, you will have to grind a little bit off the lower edges of the intake manifold front and rear where they touch the header flange. No big deal probably less than a quarter inch and it will be obvious, Also be sure to use the Renix intake/exhaust gasket to insure good sealing. The HO gasket doesn't have enough coverage. The coolant temp SENSOR, not the one for the gauge, can be installed in the lower left of the block near the knock sensor by removing a coolant jacket pipe plug. Beware the tool needed is 7/16" square drive and can be a bear to find.

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I think you mean it's a 5/16" square drive, and it need not be found. It can be made in less than five minutes using a 5/16" hex key and a grinder - you simply grind down two opposite corners a bit to make it fit in the square drive recess (so that the distance across the "wide" corners is ~5/16", just like the distance across the flats.)

8m/m ~= 5/16"
11m/m ~= 7/16" (just in case.)

5-90, I believe you're correct on the size. I did that part last week!! I ended up using a 4 sided tapered faucet seat wrench and ground it down til it fit.

cruiser54 said:

5-90, I believe you're correct on the size. I did that part last week!! I ended up using a 4 sided tapered faucet seat wrench and ground it down til it fit.

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Same approach - just use an inexpensive tool that you can sacrifice to make another tool that would cost too damned much to buy purpose-built. As I said of my grandfather in my first book, "A good mechanic can fix anything. A great mechanic doesn't even need the right parts."

I've never removed a faucet seat anyway. Great sacrificial tool.