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Heater Blower....

R

RustyRocker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Clearfiled, PA
Ok....my heater now only has High Speed, setting #4....the other 3 setting do nothing.....just happened overnight.......its a 2000 Cherokee Sport.......i guess im glad i still have High, but kinda a pain in the ass when its not REAL cold out, lol.....its just off and on now, no adjustment, lol......i priced blower motors, and 130-140 sounds kinda high to me.....may tuff it out til spring....lol......anyone think it could be the switch that went bad?
 
AIRTEX Part # 3A1101
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getimage.php

$39.79

rockauto.com, about $40.

Very doable for the DIY.
 
Thanks for the reply....did some searching, should have first....sorry.......seems kinda easy to replace.......would the High setting keep working for awhile tho...like...if i cant fix it ASAP? seems to me it would?
 
Yes, can run it for a while.

Not too long, though.

That circuit likes to melt the HVAC switch connector and take out the ignition switch with it.

EDIT: excellent thread on upgrading that circuit: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002774
 
1988 Cherokoo......ive been told now, on here, thats its NOT the blower motor itself, rather, its the blower resistor......a lot cheaper, and easier to replace.......im gonna do mine when i can......im hoping HIgh holds out and keeps working for now, as its still winter in PA, lol......
 
Joe_Peters....thanks for the fast reply.....im trying to NOT use it much, i figured it couldnt be good on it.......may have to fix that this weekend.......hope its not too bad, lol...
 
RustyRocker said:
Joe_Peters....thanks for the fast reply.....im trying to NOT use it much, i figured it couldnt be good on it.......may have to fix that this weekend.......hope its not too bad, lol...
Click to expand...

Good tip: Always turn off all accessories, radio, heater blower, etc., before turning off the ignition. That way you reduce the load on the ignition switch during the next start.
 
Last edited:
Replacing the resistor is an easy repair. Passenger side bottom kick panel area.

Sometimes though, the the blower motor itself can be the CAUSE of the resistor failure.

So if you replace the resitor and it happens again.....that means it's time for a new blower motor.
 
Junkyard today had 4 that I took out. It is 2 or 3 coiled up wires and a resistor with 2 small bolts, bolted onto a plastic housing at the feet in front passenger seat. Most are all gunked up with rust, but should work. There are 4-5 wires going to this thing, with a plug and it just ends there, goes nowhere, just loops around the coils and resisitor. Must be there to cool them down or something.
 
The loops are the resistor wires, and they do need airflow from the fan to keep cool. The little thing that looks like an electrical component is the thermal fuse. Usually that is what overheats and blows. You CAN pick up a thermal fuse at radio shack and replace that part still using your old resistor pack. If you go to get a new(used) one at the JY, bring your VOM to test the thermal fuse for continuity.

Dealership warranty practice is to replace the resistor once. If it blows again, replace the blower motor too.
 
Check to make sure the harness into the (new) resistor module is sound, mine melted. At idle, turn blower on high, if you notice significant voltage drop, your blower motor could be on its way out; winding resistance increases with age/use. I smelled burnt plastic the day mine went. Note the wire orientation, cut the harness, slap on some insulated female spades...good to go.
 
I think that sometimes when the plastic plug gets overheated it warps. Then that makes the individual connections worse. By using individual connectors, each individual connection will make better contact. Heat can dissipate better too from the wires and connectors. That stuff can get hot enough to melt the HVAC housing and occasionally create a "thermal event".
 
Yup one of my coils went on mine. Slapped in another one and the selector works great. There is a plastic shield and there is a component in the way, a round thing with 2 bolts, and a mini-hose in the center. Easy to remove.
 
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