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NO CRANK!!!

JeepCherokeeGuy99

JeepCherokeeGuy99

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Bern, NC
99xj 4.0 ax-15

So I've got a no start problem here. When I turn the key to run it does not crank. It doesn't even make a clicking sound at the starter. I pulled the starter and had it tested..it passed. So I figured it must be the connection. I checked all relays and fuses. I did the by bypass thingy at the starter (had to do that in the past) but it didn't crank then either. Just sparked a little. I cleaned the connections and they all look good. Is there something I'm missing here? it's a fully charged optima red top battery in it so that's not the issue. Possibly the ignition switch?
 
No. When you attempted to jump it at the starter that ELIMINATED the ignition switch, starter relay, and their associated wiring.

A charged battery does not mean a battery that will pass a load test. I would have the battery load tested.

However, what you should do is remove the negative and positive main cables from the vehicle, clean both ends of each cable, and then use an ohm meter to measure each cables resistance--should be near ZERO.

IF the battery passes a load test, and the cables are clean on the ends and are not corroded under the insulation with about zero resistance each, then you should be able to jump the starter and it should crank the engine.

Git R done.
 
have you powered the ign switch term on the starter?

check you clutch safety switch!
 
joe_peters said:
No. When you attempted to jump it at the starter that ELIMINATED the ignition switch, starter relay, and their associated wiring.

A charged battery does not mean a battery that will pass a load test. I would have the battery load tested.

However, what you should do is remove the negative and positive main cables from the vehicle, clean both ends of each cable, and then use an ohm meter to measure each cables resistance--should be near ZERO.

IF the battery passes a load test, and the cables are clean on the ends and are not corroded under the insulation with about zero resistance each, then you should be able to jump the starter and it should crank the engine.

Git R done.
Click to expand...

haha joe i knew you would be the first one to post. I was debating whether or not to send you a PM but figured this thread could help others as well. I had the battery recharged at kragen a couple days ago, where they also load test it before giving it back to me. I'll test the cables though and let you know what I find. Thanks!

DesertRunner said:
have you powered the ign switch term on the starter?

check you clutch safety switch!
Click to expand...
the clutch safety switch was the first thing I was thinking of when this first happened to me the other night at the drive-in. I kept checking it, is it suppose to be able to rotate and slide back and forth? Is there a way of bypassing it just to see if thats the problem?
 
You could probably work around the clutch switch. My 90 doesn't have one and I don't miss having it. Old school I guess.

Anyway, again, if you jump the starter that defeats all safety features and bypasses the key/ignition, all of that. The battery positive cable to the starter, starter is grounded through the engine, and you apply power to the solenoid--simpler circuits there are, but not much simpler.
 
joe_peters said:
You could probably work around the clutch switch. My 90 doesn't have one and I don't miss having it. Old school I guess.

Anyway, again, if you jump the starter that defeats all safety features and bypasses the key/ignition, all of that. The battery positive cable to the starter, starter is grounded through the engine, and you apply power to the solenoid--simpler circuits there are, but not much simpler.
Click to expand...

yup your right, i will definitely try it first thing tomorrow morning!
 
Yo ho ho mo fo!
 
If you are just getting sparks jumping around the selonoid with a known good battery you either have something in a bind (unlikely since you removed and reinstalled your starter), the flywheel is missing teeth (it would make some noise), or the motor is locked up. Might try turning the engine by hand by putting a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt and turning clockwise with a long pull handle. If should move fairly easy and if its a bind or flywheel this should make a difference. Have you tried push, or pull starting it?
 
well i bypassed the NSS and still nothing. checked every single fuse and relay and still nothing. I replaced the battery cable leads as well. I'm starting to think that the girl at o'reilys only tested the starter itself, and not the solenoid. Cause it sounds to me like the solenoid is shot, and besides I don't really trust girls when it comes to my jeep. So johnnie is going to come over on sunday and i'm gonna swap starters and see if that fixes it. Also, I read somewhere that the CPS sometimes causes these symptoms as well, so that will be the next step if the replacement starter doesn't fix it.
 
jeepnfreak said:
If you are just getting sparks jumping around the selonoid with a known good battery you either have something in a bind (unlikely since you removed and reinstalled your starter), the flywheel is missing teeth (it would make some noise), or the motor is locked up. Might try turning the engine by hand by putting a socket on the harmonic balancer bolt and turning clockwise with a long pull handle. If should move fairly easy and if its a bind or flywheel this should make a difference. Have you tried push, or pull starting it?
Click to expand...

i doubt its the motor or flywheel. When i pulled the starter to get it tested i checked the teeth. I've been bump starting it all around town..I just gotta park on a hill :D
 
If your Jeep runs.. then the CKP is not very likely to be at fault. As a failed CKP.. you can crank, but no start.
 
CPS/CKP will not prevent the engine from cranking, unless someone has taken one and hammered into a place between the bell housing and flywheel/flexplate.

The CPS/CKP only sends input to the ECU for the correct timing so that the ECU/PCM knows when to collapse the coil's field and fire the plugs. Repeat, nothing to do with cranking. If your engine cranks, but has no spark, then start looking at the CPS/CKP.
 
joe_peters said:
CPS/CKP will not prevent the engine from cranking, unless someone has taken one and hammered into a place between the bell housing and flywheel/flexplate.

The CPS/CKP only sends input to the ECU for the correct timing so that the ECU/PCM knows when to collapse the coil's field and fire the plugs. Repeat, nothing to do with cranking. If your engine cranks, but has no spark, then start looking at the CPS/CKP.
Click to expand...

naturally thats what i would think, but then i saw this...5th post

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1013553

Kejtar had these same symptoms, and fixed it with a new CPS
 
joe_peters said:
CPS/CKP will not prevent the engine from cranking, unless someone has taken one and hammered into a place between the bell housing and flywheel/flexplate.

The CPS/CKP only sends input to the ECU for the correct timing so that the ECU/PCM knows when to collapse the coil's field and fire the plugs. Repeat, nothing to do with cranking. If your engine cranks, but has no spark, then start looking at the CPS/CKP.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The crank sensor in no way can inhibit the engine from cranking.

It can inhibit it from STARTING only.
 
Jeepcherokeeboy97 said:
naturally thats what i would think, but then i saw this...5th post

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1013553

Kejtar had these same symptoms, and fixed it with a new CPS
Click to expand...

Kejtar may have fixed a no start issue with a CPS/CKP, but he didn't fix a no crank issue. The path for cranking is this: key, ignition switch, starter relay, solenoid. The main positive to the starter is hot all the time. The starter grounds through the engine all the time. The NSS, or a clutch safety switch, will simply block the ground for the starter relay so that it won't function when power is applied from the ignition switch. Period. The CPS/CKP is a two wire speed sensor that provides input to the ECU/PCM. There are two wires on the CPS/CKP, they both run to the ECU/PCM. They are part of the ignition system, but only provide input--that is why it is called a sensor.

Not a diss on Kejtar, but it was magic pixie dust that made his XJ crank after changing the CPS/CKP, not the actual changing of that sensor.

Dude, this is the internet. Read, read, and read, but don't believe everything you read--even if it is from me.
 
joe_peters said:
Kejtar may have fixed a no start issue with a CPS/CKP, but he didn't fix a no crank issue. The path for cranking is this: key, ignition switch, starter relay, solenoid. The main positive to the starter is hot all the time. The starter grounds through the engine all the time. The NSS, or a clutch safety switch, will simply block the ground for the starter relay so that it won't function when power is applied from the ignition switch. Period. The CPS/CKP is a two wire speed sensor that provides input to the ECU/PCM. There are two wires on the CPS/CKP, they both run to the ECU/PCM. They are part of the ignition system, but only provide input--that is why it is called a sensor.

Not a diss on Kejtar, but it was magic pixie dust that made his XJ crank after changing the CPS/CKP, not the actual changing of that sensor.

Dude, this is the internet. Read, read, and read, but don't believe everything you read--even if it is from me.
Click to expand...

well put joe. I don't believe everything i read, but kejtar is a pretty credible source, which is why i figured its a possibility. Ill keep you informed on how sunday turns out.
 
well i was right. After swapping johnnie and my starter it fired right up, so looks like it was the starter solenoid. Thanks for all your guys help! :)
 
Damn broads ( and most parts store employee's for that matter) not testing items properly.
 
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