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Need your thoughts.

$200 SYE vs $500 SYE, I'd do the IRO SYE and the RC lift. Then again I'd do the IRO yoke only and get the DS at the junkyard. The IRO is a HacknTap and the RC is an internal kit, So it's really a Apples and Oranges comparison.
 
93gc40 said:
$200 SYE vs $500 SYE, I'd do the IRO SYE and the RC lift. Then again I'd do the IRO yoke only and get the DS at the junkyard. The IRO is a HacknTap and the RC is an internal kit, So it's really a Apples and Oranges comparison.
Click to expand...

The RC link is the lift i'm getting and the IRO link is the SYE and driveshaft i'm getting. My question is.... What else is an absolute NEED to get my XJ back on the road.
I know shims will be a must to correct my pinion angle.
Alignment will also be a must.
Is there anything else i'm missing?
 
I don't know if it comes with it but I would get new bolts for the rear springs. Start spraying the bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil at least a week before you do the swap. I know the shocks can be used as bump stops I wouldn't do that. Instead get or fab some extended bump stops for front and rear. Of course you will need brake fluid, diff fluid, probably some silicone for the SYE.
 
CaliXJ said:
The RC link is the lift i'm getting and the IRO link is the SYE and driveshaft i'm getting. My question is.... What else is an absolute NEED to get my XJ back on the road.
I know shims will be a must to correct my pinion angle.
Alignment will also be a must.
Is there anything else i'm missing?
Click to expand...


call IRO and tell them what lift your installing so they can provide you with the correct degree shims.

other then that, the kit looks to be complete. i would have spare nuts and bolts incase you have the misfortune of snapping the rear shock bolts.
 
Talyn said:
I don't know if it comes with it but I would get new bolts for the rear springs. Start spraying the bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil at least a week before you do the swap. I know the shocks can be used as bump stops I wouldn't do that. Instead get or fab some extended bump stops for front and rear. Of course you will need brake fluid, diff fluid, probably some silicone for the SYE.
Click to expand...

Yeah i've come up with some hockey pucks for front bump stops. I also have some 3/4 inch solid alum plate but want to know if that will be ok for rear BS plates? Should i re-use the upper steal plate on top of that aswell? Or will washers be enough?
Brake fluid= check
RTV= check
ATF3 for trans case= check
Rear diff oil? Why would i need this? I didn't plan on taking cover off.
 
ehall said:
aluminum is strong enough for the rear bumpstop plate however it's not strong enough for the u-bolts so there is no safe way to use it
Click to expand...

Ok so the upper leaf spring plate will be needed over the 3/4 alum plate? Or should i just ax the idea all together?
 
Pick up some half inch steel plate at a local scrapyard or metals co, I bought WAY more than I needed (44") of 10" wide for under 60 dollars and cut out two 6"x10" bumpstop+U-bolt plates. Sold the remainder off and came up with quite a reasonable price as a result.
 
Yeah guess that's easy enough. The 3/4 alum plate was just something sitting around the shop here at work. Thanks for the feed back. Lift is ordered and on its way!



just a heads up to those buying a IRO hack-n-tap..... There is a little bit of a back order on them.... Said about 2 weeks. Not bad though
 
Last edited:
CaliXJ said:
Yeah i've come up with some hockey pucks for front bump stops. I also have some 3/4 inch solid alum plate but want to know if that will be ok for rear BS plates? Should i re-use the upper steal plate on top of that aswell? Or will washers be enough?
Brake fluid= check
RTV= check
ATF3 for trans case= check
Rear diff oil? Why would i need this? I didn't plan on taking cover off.
Click to expand...

I don't know why I said diff fluid, I think I meant transfercase fluid. However, you say ATF3 I hope that isn't what you are using in your auto transmission.

The aluminum will be fine for the BS plate... but are you stacking it above the stock bump stop or using it on the axle side of things?
 
CaliXJ said:
Ok so the upper leaf spring plate will be needed over the 3/4 alum plate? Or should i just ax the idea all together?
Click to expand...

I was thinking along the same lines, but I'm going to assemble in this order:

-leaf springs
-steel spring plate
-washers
-u-bolt nuts
-washers
-alum bump stop plate
-washers
-u-bolt nuts

My u-bolts are long enough to do this, but I may counterbore the holes in the alum plates if I need more room or just for a more finished look.
 
Talyn said:
I don't know why I said diff fluid, I think I meant transfercase fluid. However, you say ATF3 I hope that isn't what you are using in your auto transmission.

The aluminum will be fine for the BS plate... but are you stacking it above the stock bump stop or using it on the axle side of things?
Click to expand...

Ummmm? guess i'm a little confused here ATF3 in transfer case and Dex/Merc III in transmission correct? Or is ATF3 actually Dex/Merc III?
Then again being a fairly new XJ to me.. Who knows what the PO has put in it. Seems to be doing great though! So i guess i just give him the benefit.
As for the alum plates.. Was thinking of putting it right on top of the leaf springs and then the steal spring plate on top of that. Or is that a big no no?

Never mind.. I found this.
DEXIII:
Viscosity: 201 (indexed): @40C - 34.70 : @100C - 7.70
ATF+3:
Viscosity: 200 (indexed): @40C - 33.70 : @100C - 7.60
To Compare;
Redline Race ATF:
Viscosity: 177 (indexed): @40C - 53.70 : @100C 10.00
 
Last edited:
ATF+3 has different frictional additives as well I think. Not sure, trans fluid is somewhat of a mystery to me.

The transfer case really doesn't give a hoot what you put in it, so long as it's got a little detergent in it (any motor oil or trans fluid will have this) and is approximately the right viscosity. All it's got (for an np231 anyways) is some gears and chain drive, no clutches or other hardware requiring special additives.

As for the bumpstop plates... I dunno you could probably get away with that (since the plate doesn't have the hollow cores aluminum lift blocks do) but for 20 bucks in plate steel you can do it right and forget about it. I prefer to ridiculously overbuild things for what I intend to do, so that's my personal bias.
 
CaliXJ said:
Ummmm? guess i'm a little confused here ATF3 in transfer case and Dex/Merc III in transmission correct? Or is ATF3 actually Dex/Merc III?
Then again being a fairly new XJ to me.. Who knows what the PO has put in it. Seems to be doing great though! So i guess i just give him the benefit.
As for the alum plates.. Was thinking of putting it right on top of the leaf springs and then the steal spring plate on top of that. Or is that a big no no?
Click to expand...



The transmission takes Dex/Merc. The transfer case can take ATF +3 or +4 or dex/merc but it doesn't care much. It would just simplify things if you used dex/merc in both.
 
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