2000 Cherokee Intermitant Problem

I bought this rig new last spring and since then it's been a headache. Currently It's developing and intermitant stalling problem, which will occur even while driving down the road.

It's like the engine just decides to stop running. It will kick and buck, kinda like jump starting a manual down a hill. But it will always stop the kicking and resume running like normal. It will also stall when left idling in the drive, always starts back up.

Recent repairs include new alternator, new injectors, radiator, plugs and a good cleaning of all contacts. It runs a little cold due to the thermostat (I need to put a 195 degree one in) After the plugs and injectors It ran smoother with a little more power, but I'm still getting horrible gas milage.

Another problem is I think it ran around for several weeks with the battrey terminals loose. This promted the alternator exchange. No codes have been thrown and I have the results from my scan tool of 25 minutes of recorded driving. Nothing unusual, althoughit recorded "diagnostice Monitors" "$11 - $33". I have those results, but no way to decipher.

Any ideas?

You could be on the front end of a crank sensor failure. It is a VERY common failure on the Jeep 4.0. Here's more on them..

Crankshaft Position Sensor: (CPS/CKP) Failure Symptoms / Testing

*Both the fuel gauge and or voltage gauge may not work/display

*It is possible that you may see a No Bus on the odometer (on newer models only)

*You will have no spark. Fuel pressure may check out okay at the fuel rail, but fuel won’t get to the fuel injectors

*For 96 + newer, sometimes the OBDII code reader has trouble connecting to /reading codes. Crankshaft position sensor failure may or may not result in a check engine light/fault code.

*Crankshaft position sensors can be intermittent resulting in an abrupt misfire. "Thermal failure" is common. Thermal fail means that the sensor fails when engine gets hot, but works again when engine cools down. Be aware of this when testing, as if you have a sensor that suffers from thermal failure, it’s possible that it may test GOOD as soon as it cools down.

*Don’t get tunnel vision and assume the sensor is bad (unless it checks out as bad with a meter) Damaged wiring or a dirty connector can inhibit the signal from making it to the computer. Check/clean/repair as necessary.
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CRANKSHAFT SENSOR TESTING PROCEDURE: 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.

2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C. The terminals are identified as A-B-C looking into connector from left to right with the "notch" in the middle of the connector on your right. Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-10K scale for this test.

3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if LOW RESISTANCE

The Voltage guage has been wonky, especially during start up.

The code reader has definatly had problems hooking up, especially after warming up.

This may be it, multimeter is riding with me now.

As for these "Diagnostic Monitors"....apparently the definitions are listed in the "appropriate Powertrain Diagnostic Procedure Manual" Any clue as to what that is?