Brake bleeder broke off

So I just installed a 9" rear axle in the XJ, whole project went smooth as silk until I tried to bleed the brakes today (that should have been a sign that I was going to break something :laugh. I figured I would put bleeding the brakes off until today so I could let them sit after being sprayed wit PB blaster. I hit them with PB last night, sprayed them again today..

So it was still pretty tight in there I guess and the damn thing just snapped clean off. :doh: Now due to the placement of the bleeder bolt thing I have to drop the axle again or pull the whole brake assembly off in order to drill it out. Does anyone know the best way to go about fixing something like this? I did some searching and figure maybe it would be easier to just replace the entire brake assembly if I can get it off. Hell, maybe man up and spend the $$ on disk brakes. But for the time being is there any "simple" way to fix something like this?

TIA,
-Scott

just get new wheel cylinder to get over it IMO

x2 replace wheel cylinder it's $10 and none of the frustration

what he said

Somehow I overlooked wheel cylinders :dunno:

Though this is a small bearing 9" so I may be able to snag the disks of a late model exploder 8.8, I think the backing plate bolt pattern is the same or similar, both are small bearing, just may be a different offset. Or maybe I am thinking about this all wrong, gotta do more research and take some measurements.

But anyway, the new cylinder may be the way to go if the disks don't work. I don't know why I didn't think of just replacing the wheel cylinders myself. Maybe it was that whole "I'm pissed and don't want to think about this right now" mindset (followed by a "well I broke it might as well upgrade it now" thought process) :laugh3:

Thanks!

Edit: I think the small bearing needs disks from a crown vic... big bearing might be the exploder.. I think

themangeraaad said:

disks of a late model exploder 8.8,

Click to expand...

BAM! problem solved

You CAN also bleed drum brake wheel cylinders by sliding a feeler gage in between the rubber piston and the wheel cylinder. But I would just replace both rear wheel cylinders. Many years ago, I tried drilling out a wheel cylinder bleeder while I had it in a vise. It didn't work. I like to use a deep six pointed socket to break the bleeders loose for better wrench control than a box end wrench. Also, make sure to keep using the rubber bleeder caps. Lack of these insures frozen bleeders.

ktm racer 419 said:

BAM! problem solved

Click to expand...

That is IF the disks will work.. Hopefully will get the Jeep to the shop early this week, hopefully have it back within a week or 2, all regeared and such. Then I will start worrying about the brakes and either rebuild the drums or replace with disks by mid feb... I got way too much stuff to do in the next month

winterbeater said:

I like to use a deep six pointed socket to break the bleeders loose for better wrench control than a box end wrench.

Click to expand...

Exactly what I did... what I have found so far is if the bleeder is in there real tight the wrench will lead to rounding it off and the socket just breaks it off :laugh: