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MUDFLAP
November 2nd, 2006, 08:22
96 xj 4.0 aw4 np242 3"lift 1"tc drop 133k miles
My xj keeps stalling out on me.It usually starts right back up but seems to be stalling more frequently. I replaced my cps on the bellhousing last night but it still is stalling.I still have lights radio etc just the engine is cutting out. My check engine light is on and Im headed to autozone tonite to see what the scanner says.Im gonna check coil,coil wire,grounds etc
Would a bad ground trigger the check engine light? Seems to me if it was a bad ground wire I would be losin radio lights etc along with the engine. Maybe the block to ground cable? What do you guys think?Would a bad coil wire trigger the check engine light?

I had the hood up and engine running in the dark last night when she stalled but didnt see any arcing but thought I heard what sounded like a short or a bad connection (faint clicking noise) near the dist cap.
Im sure the scanner codes will help troubleshoot my problem but has anybody had a similar problem?

MUDFLAP
November 3rd, 2006, 06:47
Ok Went to autozone last night and on the way the check engine light went out. Dude at autozone says they cant troubleshoot it unless the light is on.Anybody know if this is true? I thought the codes might be stored.I drove it around town for a while until completely warmed up and it never stalled.I did clean up some connections (battery,cps,grounds etc) so maybe that fixed the problem.Ive got to make a small roadtrip this weekend (150 miles total) with the wifey and kids so Im hopin it doesnt start actin up again.

MUDFLAP
November 6th, 2006, 13:22
anybody? Light came on again so Im headin to the "zone".

DurbElites
November 6th, 2006, 23:28
my friend had a very similar problem stalled then started right back up drove around and it would die but its a 5sp so it would kick back on went to the zone and they couldnt find the problem and nothing came up bad on their check. so I started thinking and we checked the coil there with there little ohm meter thing and it came up at 4.9 ohms and it should be 5.9 to 7.9 didn't think it was that bad but we changed the coil anyways and the problem is gone. have them check you coil at auto zone it can be done in car or out doesnt matter. make sure to tell them to check the secondary first on the coil (the post that goes to the coil and the positive side i think on one of the posts below that) have them check the book to make sure but it should read better than 5.7 - 5.9 up to 7.9 if it doesnt it could very well be the problem.

MUDFLAP
November 7th, 2006, 08:02
Thanks for the response. I didnt think to have them check the coil and just saw your post.They checked it with the scan tool and said its the cps circuit.Since I just relaced the cps I checked all the connectors/wiring and it all looks good.They reset the computer with the scan tool and the check engine light is off and it seems to run fine.I read in my Haynes manual that after you replace a sensor you have to reset the computer with a scan tool,,just disconnecting the battery for a while will not work.So Im hopin its fixed but still not 100% sure since it has run fine up to 150 miles and then stalls again.
So does anybody know if its true that you absolutely have to reset the computer with the scan tool?

8Mud
November 7th, 2006, 08:18
My 96 has Mil codes that you can retrieve yourself with the key methode. If the check engine light is on, it will most likely give you a Mil code, not as good as a scanner, but can likley give you a direction to check.
Most anytime my 96 has had a stalling problem, it was the IAC. Only happend at idle. I cleaned it out and the problem disappeared. The IAC sticking seemed to be temp. related, when it was hot I rarley had any trouble with it.