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Stock '97 XJ + RMS + Me = Epic Fail

skywalkr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jacksonville
So, I did some research on replacing the rear main seal in my stock 1997 XJ and decided to give it a whirl today..12 hours later, I have successfully unbolted the oil pan...thats it...

All the threads and write-ups I've read on this subject mention that the oil pan slips out the rear under the bell housing...I'm gonna raise the BS flag on this one...at least for my year...I seriously tried for about 5 - 6 hours to get that thing out...I even disconnected the sway bar to give me another 1/2 inch droop...still not enough...nevermind the fact that its already up on jack stands at full flex...oh and thanks Chrysler for that wonderful bearing stabilizer bar...now I can't even touch the rear seal without taking the pan out because there are 10 more bolts I can't get to...

now, I will concede that it is possible I'm not as skillful as I thought and this could be a "User Error" but I really can't see how the pan will come out...anyone with a stock 97+ replaced their RMS?
 
x2 on unbolting shocks and track bar - had to on my '01. also remove the starter if u haven't already. just my .02
 
hmmm, I will try these suggestions...this is my last ditch effort before I sit the jeep in timeout for non-compliance...im not in any danger of the springs popping out and taking my head off am I?
 
hmmm, I will try these suggestions...this is my last ditch effort before I sit the jeep in timeout for non-compliance...im not in any danger of the springs popping out and taking my head off am I?

You could use a couple ratcheting straps as limiters and lower the axle slowly with a floor jack if you are concerned about it.
 
I wasn't too concerned...I've only heard stories about the springs firing off...I ended up unbolting the shocks, disconnecting the sway bar and the track bar...still can't get the stupid thing out...I am able to get to the bearing stabilizer bar now though so I'm just gonna push the pan to the side to get to the main bearing and hope for the best...

one thing though, I bent the lip of the oil pan a little while trying to pull it out...should I bite the bullet and get another pan?
 
Depends on how bad you bent it. You could always bend it back.

As for not getting the pan off I haven't had any issues, but I have 3.5" of lift w/ after market control arms. The only tip I have is to pull the rear down first then slide it out.
 
Depends on how bad you bent it. You could always bend it back.

As for not getting the pan off I haven't had any issues, but I have 3.5" of lift w/ after market control arms. The only tip I have is to pull the rear down first then slide it out.
3.5" lift...must be nice :rof: I would imagine it is quite a bit easier...this could be the excuse I need to get one...my logic seems sound...spend $500 to get the rms replaced by a mechanic...or spend the same amount and get a lift to go with it...
 
But still, you disconnected the shocks, sway bar, and track bar and it still isn't coming out for you. Maybe the control arm bushings are bound up... you could try to loosening the control arm bolts to relieve the pressure. However, when you re tighten them make sure the vehicle is sitting on the ground. What about your brake hoses? They might be acting as limiting straps (which is bad for the hoses).
 
Getting the pan off my stock '00 was a pita, i had to disconnect the shocks and the sway bar, and still had to have my bro put put all his weight on my longest prybar pushing the axle down to get it out!

Would have been alot easier with some lift!
 
hmm when i did mine i was fortunate enough to have a lift, but i recall dropping the exhaust, and the cross member but that was it. full droop was enough beyond that.

all in all it was a huge PITA, but hang in there you can do it.

It was on a stock 97 as well.
 
I believe the easiest way is:
1-raise the jeep to full extension place jack stands under so as front axle is as low as shocks allow.
2-loosen fan shroud so it is free of radiator
2-remove the two forward engine mount bolts and raise the engine about 2 inches.
3- all the wiring and hoses have sufficient slack.
4- the pan will fall out
5- BUT you will need a tapered drift to install the engine mount bolts.
enjoy,
Joe
 
$5 bucks the minute I remove the oil pickup it falls right out...I managed to replace the seal with the pan under there (a little finagling to one side and the other and a can of extreme patience)

I will remove the pickup tomorrow and try it...mainly because I want to laugh at myself when it does...and because it will still be easier to clean it and seat the gasket...

does the pickup just slide off or is that bolt on the underside of the pump what holds it?
 
There are 2 bolts that hold the pump to the bottom of the block. Get a new gasket for the oil pump, pull the bolts (leave the pickup on it) and it will drop right in the pan. The pickup is press fit into the pump body so I'd leave it alone.
 
I wasn't too concerned...I've only heard stories about the springs firing off...I ended up unbolting the shocks, disconnecting the sway bar and the track bar...still can't get the stupid thing out...I am able to get to the bearing stabilizer bar now though so I'm just gonna push the pan to the side to get to the main bearing and hope for the best...

one thing though, I bent the lip of the oil pan a little while trying to pull it out...should I bite the bullet and get another pan?

No, use a block (metal or hardwood) and a small hammer to straighten it out.
 
Did you read this?
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101118

If your axle is @ full droop, place a floor jack under the diff. and raise it up a bit. You can see how the clearance changes. Best clearance is when LCAs are parallel to the 'frame' rails, but a little up and down action may be in order. Did you remove the inspection plate from the bell housing? That little bit of extra wiggle room makes a big difference.

Maybe you should just give up. On my '89, I had basically given up when the pan damn near fell on my face. Still not sure exactly how it came out. It was almost as hard to get it back in (not sure on that one either).

A little RTV Black or bread ties can be used to hold the gasket to the pan for re-install.

Go slow and try not to get too pissed. Good luck.
 
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+1 Dropping the axle allows it to rotate back causing interference when removing the pan. With stock LCA's only. If you have a lift with longer LCA's it may be possible. Both my 92 and 90 only allow the pan to be removed with the axle raised not lowered. It will come out.
 
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