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DW again...

shortbussrydah

NAXJA Forum User
so my death wobble has come back again for about the ten thousandth time...

4.5" rough country lift, 33x12.5 goodyears...

Im going to install a drop pitman arm, CA drop brackets, realign and rebalance all tires

if that doesnt work, im going to throw in the towel...

is there any size of tire, or height of lift that the DW starts at in particular?
i was pretty much thinking of downsizing to a 2 or 3" lift with 31"s or 32"s

am i right to assume that downsizing will cure it?
 
A stock Cherokee can have Death Wobble.

Drop Pitman arms are not needed until you have 6-8" of lift.


The first steps to eliminate Death Wobble should be a visual inspection of each component, checking the bushings, the tire balance and the alignment. DW is usually caused by a combination of several of the following causes, and is not caused by one single part or item that needs attention. These are some common things you must check anytime you lift your Jeep. Death Wobble is experienced mostly on lifted Jeeps, however it is not uncommon for someone without a lift to experience the dreaded DW. Listed below are a few things you can check.

-Check your Tires
1. Out of balance tires can cause shaking in the front end, which can lead to Death Wobble. A tire/rim that has been balanced can still have internal defects that lead to DW.
2. Make sure all of your lug nuts are tight, (it happens to the best of us)

-Make sure you have a good alignment
1. After you get an alignment done, have them print out the numbers for you. An XJ should have a 7* positive caster angle. A lifted XJ can’t always have that high of a number because the pinion would become out of alignment with the front drive shaft. Pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
2. Make you sure you go to a shop that will adjust the caster if necessary (either by shims in the frame side of the LCAs, or adjustable LCAs).

-Check your Track Bar, play in this can cause the axle to shake.
1. Bushings - check to see that they are not worn. Looks for cracks, and excessive play)
2. Angles - this angle should be the same as your drag link. Use an angle finders you can get at sears to determine this, don’t just eye-ball it.
3. Bolts – Make sure all bolts are tightened down to spec (some lift components have a different torque spec then)

-Check the Axle, your mounts may be worn
1. Check the axle mount. Here is a good write up on a wallowed out bolt hole
http://www.jeepin.com/features/trackbarfix/index.asp
2. Check your Universal joints, a binding or lose U-Joint can cause DW
3. On the frame end if you still use the conventional Tie Rod End or (TRE) make sure that there is no play in this, as play can cause DW.
4. Look/Check for worn/torn boots on ball joints/tie-rod ends.

-Check your Frame
1. Small cracks in the frame can cause the steering box to feel loose; shaking from DW can only make this worse. 33’s and larger should have some form of Steering box brace, or frame brace in.
2. If you have upgraded your frame mount, make sure its cranked down nice and tight. (best to use an impact gun)
3. A busted Frame Mount can cause play in the front end causing DW (Keep a watchful eye on the welds as welds in sheer can break over time.

-The more adjustable parts the easier it is to tune in your lifted suspension.
1. Adjustable Track Bar
2. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms (upper ones above 4” of lift). Not only are they adjustable, but they are stronger.


-Things to remember:
1. After any lift, get your Jeep professionally aligned, this is a REQUIREMENT, not a suggestion.
2. A Steering Stabilizer (SS) is not a quick fix for DW.
3. Make sure that the lift you purchase comes with all the required parts for a safe driving vehicle. (as long as its going to be a DD)
4. PLEASE ALWAYS DRIVE WITH YOUR FRONT SWAY BAR CONNECTED!

If this information has been helpful, please click on the "thumbs up" icon on the bottom right side of this section.


Entire list of everything that can cause death wobble:

-Front tires out of balance
-Front alignment out of spec
-Loose track bar (at either end)
-Worn track bar bushings
-Worn Control Arm Bushings
-Worn track bar end
-Needing an adjustable track bar
-Bad bushings/joints in control arms
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer
-Worn/damaged shocks
-Worn/damaged tie rod end
-Bad U Joint
-Bad ball joint
-Loose frame mount
-Steering box looseness
-Drive shaft(s) not balanced
-Bad front hub assembly


Torque specs:

Item .........................……......Torque Ft. lbs. .............. Nm

Lug nuts (1/2 X 20 w/ 60* cone) .... 85-115 .............. 115-150
All tie rod ends .....................…..... 55 ...................….. 74
Steering (both ends) ..............…..... 55 ................….... 74
Shock absorber upper nut .............. 16 ................….... 22
Shock absorber lower nuts ............. 17 ................….... 23
UCA frame end .....................…...... 66 ..............…..... 89
UCA axle end .........................….... 55 ................….... 74
LCA frame end ......................…..... 85 ...................... 115
LCA axle end .........................….... 85 ...................... 115
Track bar frame end ..............…..... 60 .................…... 81
Track bar axle end .................….... 40 ..................…... 54
Track bar bracket bolts ..........…..... 92 ...................... 125
Track bar bracket nut .............….... 74 ....................... 100
Track bar bracket support bolts ...... 31 ....................... 42
Hub bolts (3) ..13MM................…. 75 ....................... 102
Hub - axle bolt…36MM...........….. 175 ..................... 237

If you have a lifted vehicle, make sure that the alignment shop you choose knows the variant specifications for lifted vehicles, and that they do NOT set it to the "default/stock" settings.


Factory Original Alignment specs (stock):

Angle ............. Preferred ........... Range ............. Max R/L difference

Caster ............ +7.0* ....……….... +5.25* to +8.5* ......... 1.25*
Camber ........... -0.25* ....………... -0.75* to +0.5 ........... 1.0*
Total Toe-in .... +0.25* .………...... 0* to +0.45* ............. .05*
Thrust angle....….* to ± 0.15*
 
The answer to your question are NO. Nothing you suggest will help.
SOLVE the Death Wobble BEFORE you add any more aftermarket parts. They can be used as parts for the repair, but will NOT normally solve DW. DW is cause by worn components first, miss adjusted components second and any changes from stock condition.
 
You have a problem just fix it.
Get under the Jeep while someone sweeps the wheels lock to lock while you looke for any movement. Something will be worn out, or loose. Watch your trac bar, steering, and control arms.
 
ive already looked over that list of info many times, it was posted on one of my earlier posts about DW...

ive already checked all these, as well as checked countless times that everything is torqued to spec...

-Loose track bar (at either end)...replaced with a double sheer rough country bracket, torqued to ~80 ft.lbs, no visible play
-Worn track bar bushings... brand new poly bushings
-Worn Control Arm Bushings... none of them are more than 5 months old
-Worn track bar end... did the wollowed out bolt hole fix with 3/16" steel, everything fits very tight...
-Needing an adjustable track bar... have one
-Worn/damaged steering stabilizer... tight, 5 months old
-Worn/damaged shocks... 5 months old, already pulled them off and inspected them, they work fine
-Worn/damaged tie rod end... inspected all of them and torqued to spec


i can do 80 mph smoothly and comfortably right up until i hit a bump, which leads me to believe that my tires are balanced fine

as far as the alignment, in the tech article it says find someone who knows the specs for a LIFTED jeep, and then it lists the stock specs... does anyone have the lifted specs needed?

sorry to be a broken record about this, but it is quite frustrating...
 
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