Exhaust manifold replacement and fender removal Q's.

Hi all,

Just picked up another really nice XJ, glad to be back after my last one was totaled. This one is a 99, 4x4 with 90k and one owner. The exhaust manifold is leaking and I understand it to be a problem with these. It's not throwing a code for a lean condition, yet, but sounds pretty bad. What's recommended for replacement?

Also, I've got to put on a new front passenger side fender. How involved is it to get into and replace? Any good writeups, or places to start? All the searches here discuss cutting fenders for bigger tires - mine's all stock.

thanks,
Mike

Well I'll jump off by saying that likely your manifold has a crack down at the collector. You can (as I always say) gusset and weld your exhaust manifold if you want to stay cheap...Otherwise you would have to replace it. However if its just a leaking gasket, just go ahead and get a nice FELPRO to replace the gasket. Also sometimes the donut gasket at the base of the collector takes a dump and leaks bad. You will have to determine where its coming from to take the proper steps in repairing the problem.

As far as the fender goes I'm not certain, but w/ most vehicles it's pretty straight forward. Remove the inner fender liner and start looking for bolts. Should be a few in the engine bay and maybe a couple underneath the plastic liner. Sometimes fenders can be slotted, so when you go to put it back on just start every bolt and don't tighten them until every bolt is started so that it goes back on correctly.

I have a cracked exhaust manifold on my '98 as well. After reading through a number of threads both here and on other forums I decided to go with this replacement http://www.ineedparts.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=15343. Not to bad for $150 shipped. Ordered on 13-Jan and was on my doorstep 18-Jan

go for the apn header with the above link. i love mine. i recently did a 2000 intake and had to clearance the exhaust flange at the head and a little on the intake runners. overall its a good buy

sourblufff said:

I have a cracked exhaust manifold on my '98 as well. After reading through a number of threads both here and on other forums I decided to go with this replacement http://www.ineedparts.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=15343. Not to bad for $150 shipped. Ordered on 13-Jan and was on my doorstep 18-Jan

Click to expand...

Real good price on that site.

rockauto.com is now carrying what appears to be the same part, they list it as ATP 101212, but they want $184 and that is w/o the shipping. rockauto.com does have some VERY good sales frequently, but the link above is very tempting as that is the lowest price I have seen.

Thanks for the tips on the exhaust manifold - I'll get one of those ordered. Price looks right, too. I don't think mine is cracked at the collector though. Audibly it sounds as though it is at, or around the cylinders #5 & 6.

Any more help on fender removal? Also, can the piece of trim aft of the wheel arch be removed? I can't tell if it's stuck on with glue, clips, or what exactly. It's the horizontal piece of trim that runs horizontally across the side of the fender and doors from wheel arch trim in the front to the wheel arch trim in the rear.

thanks,
mike

The moldings are just stuck on with foam tape.

Yeah, just stuck on with tape, mine actually came off without any rubbing or anything. Tore the foam, then peeled the remaining gunk off the fender all in one piece.

Fender removal - there will be a bunch of torx bolts along the top edge, a couple along the back edge by the door hinges, two at the bottom rear edge, some self tappers into brackets and braces at the bottom front edge, some more torx bolts along the front edge behind the header panel, and the center bolt holding the top of the fender flare on goes through a small sheetmetal brace that is pop-riveted to the inner fender wall.

You're going to end up breaking the bolts on all the flare stud-strips due to rust/seizing probably, don't sweat it, either buy new ones (I can grab MOPAR part numbers out of a catalog if you want), grind out the stubs and tack weld some #10 bolts in, or just toss them and attach the flares differently after relocating them... if you bother to put them back on at all.

I have a 98 xj and i just had the same problem, the manifold was cracked when i bought it and didnt know it, I went to an auto parts store and bought one for like $ 217.00, I was going to do it myself and started to remove the old one and i stopped after i started to look from the top down and there was just to many wires and relocation stuff so i took it to a local shop and they replaced it, when they did they also replaced my belt because they said it was cracked so that was a plus which is something i would look at too. I have some mechanic ability but when it came to that i let them do it, it did cost me $ 400.00 to get it installed but it was done right. I also live in Alaska and everything it expensive, labor is about $ 100.00 an hour to get anything remotely mechanical to work on, so wherever you are dont let thoes prices scare you, thoes are just mine and i am sure yours would be cheaper. The manifold was an updated stock one that fixed the normal stock original problem that many xj's have, it looks like it has a shock system on either side, you will see what i am talking about when you look at it. It was suggested that i go with the banks manifold but i didnt because i had to register it in my name and had to get it done quick because i had to pass a emmisions test up here, but if i had more time i would have gone with banks, also if you are looking at replaceing you whole exaust system and giving you xj a little more power other than what the banks would already give you, if you look up magnaflow they make a new catalytic converter and exhaust which would give you some more horses. I hope this was helpful in some way, Todd

Thanks guys for all of the tips and info. Kastein, hopefully no need to tack weld anything...I'm hoping for an unbolt the old, rebolt the new back on. I'll need to find some adhesive for the molding.

GM, thanks for the header info - I'll look into that also.

Regards,
Mike