Prestone Coolant Flush Kit

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Preston Cooling Flush Kit from Wal-Mart. I am looking to flush my cooling system myself becasue I dont like some of the flush machines Delaers and independant shops have. If I use the prestone kit I will also use their flush solution. thanks in advance for any feedback.

I have had the Prestone flush kit installed in the heater hose on two xjs for many years with no problems. Works for me but from a results standpoint, I don't know if there is a better or more thorough way to flush the system.

I always use the Prestone extended flush solution that you leave in the system for a period of days.

I have it on my Jeep and like it. It's very easy to use once installed.

what do you guys do with your old antifreeze?

61scout80 said:

what do you guys do with your old antifreeze?

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City of San Diego holds recycling events once a month.

http://www.sandiego.gov/environmental-services/recycling/autoproducts.shtml

Here you go... Maricopa County Solid Waste Department accepts anti-freeze at no charge:

http://swm.maricopa.gov/transfer-3.htm

Have purchased 2 XJ's that had flush kits so I don't know how long they were installed. Both units failed with a crack in the plastic "T" and washed the engine down with coolant. Think they flush the system ok, but get brittle and crack with age.

I pulled both of the failed units out and stuck a piece of 1/2" copper pipe in it's place. Might carry a couple inches of copper in the console if you elect to install them.

I like the Prestone flush system but as mentioned, the plastic T's will crack over time. I just replace mine every other coolant flush. You can buy them single off the rack as most auto part stores. I also carry a spare one in the glove box just in case....

Most radiator/aircon shops will also accept used coolant gratis, and check with schools that have automotive repair programmes...

For a flush tee, I made one out of brass bits because I was tired of buying plastic ones.

PARTS:
- 3/8" NPT T-fitting
- 3/8" NPT close nipple
- 3/8" NPT x 6" pipe nipple
- 3/8" NPT to hose bibb adapter fitting
- metal hose bibb cap (mine is also brass) with O-ring to seal.
- PTFE/Teflon pipe paste.

INSTRUCTIONS:
- Cut 3/8"x6" pip nipple in half and deburr cut ends. There is no need to rethread.
- Apply PTFE and screw half of the nipple you just cut into the "run" of the T fitting (the crossbar of the letter T.)
- Apply PTFE and screw the close nipple into the "branch" of the T fitting (the "stem" part, or whatever you wish to call it.)
- Apply PTFE and screw the hose bibb adapter onto the other end of the close nipple.
- Insert O-ring into underside of hose bibb cap, and install cap. PTFE is optional here - but you can usually get the O-rings in packets of ten or so, I find it easiest to just replace the thing every time I take the cap off.

Let the PTFE set up overnight, then install the whole fitting into the same place you would install the plastic fitting. Refill system & return to service.

USE:
- Run your flush of choice through the system.
- You can (naturally) connect the garden hose to the thing out of hand, then turn it on to flush the system. I find it helpful to pinch off the hose between the T fittign and the firewall - this makes the water flow backwards through the system, and frees up more crap (think "fish scales" - and running your hand over the scales forwards, and again going back.)
- Drain all tap water out of the system before filing - the radiator drain will get most of it, but not all. There should be a drain plug down behin the exaust, but it takes an 8m/m square drive. Fashion this by using an 8m/m or 5/16" hex key, and grinding down opposite corners unti it fits (it doesn't take much. I've been able to make these in the space of a couple of minutes using a hand grinder.)

Thansk for all the info everyone. I will definetly be doing this shortly. Will my block drains even open with 210K on my XJ.

been running a plastic t for about 2 years now, no cracks yet.

BUT i will be replacing it soon, thanks oldtimers!

i use it for bleeding my closed coolant system.

A quick solution for the cracked tee. Rather than cutting your current heater hose, just remove it from the front of the engine, install the tee on the end. Get another piece of hose from the store, hook it to the other end of the tee and then to the port on the front of the engine. Flush the system out as advertised and remove the whole assy when done. Reassemble the uncut heater hose and voila, no chance of a broken tee. The tee does not wear like it would if left on the vehicle, so it can be used over and over on other vehicles as well.

So is it just me or does the drain tap on the passanger side bottom of the radiator not work? doesn't turn? is it just there for looks?

jdogg4 said:

So is it just me or does the drain tap on the passanger side bottom of the radiator not work? doesn't turn? is it just there for looks?

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Mine works, on my old radiator that came with the jeep and on my new csf radiator...

I went to ace and put a drain hose to it and I can't get that sucker to turn at all. mine is a 2001 xj and I did a radiator swap on my older 98 and forgot to see if it turned or not before tossing it.

Mine turned, but it helped to pull out on the knob while turning. Imagine a fine thread screw where it takes several turns to get the screw out- now imagine a rather coarse screw (the valve) where 1/2 turn moves the valve almost all the way out (open). Just be verrrrrrry gentle, it breaks easy. Most others just dump the lower hose.

The official drain is a waste anyway. Just pull the bottom hose off. Unless you have a couple of hours to watch it drain. Or maybe just break it. No point.

winterbeater said:

The official drain is a waste anyway. Just pull the bottom hose off. Unless you have a couple of hours to watch it drain. Or maybe just break it. No point.

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I had 6 beers to watch it drain!:clap::clap: