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This weekends Bastard pack build.

wade_hack

NAXJA Forum User

I've been working on this XJ for a few months now. Those of you that are keeping up with My Daughters XJ build thread know it has come a long ways.
So far I have cut the fenders, and added a set of 33 BFG MT's. Next I built the rear bumper, rock rails, inner and outer steering/frame support plates, and a front winch bumper.
I have since decided it was time to start the suspension.
To get you up to speed, when I bought the Cherokee it had an incomplete 4.5 in lift in the front and 2 inch blocks in the rear. All parts were of an unknown origin. This has been bugging me for a while.
I do have new rear springs in the so called budget, but I decided I'd try my hand at building a set of bastards to get me by till I order the new ones.
I know I wanted to lift the rear 5 to 5.5 inches. I picked up a set of IRONMAN4x4 extended and adjustable shackles that measure 8 inches.
Now, stock shackles are a total of three inches long. Mine are eight inches. For those of you who don't know, when doing a shackle lift remember that for every added inch of shackle length you add 1/2 inch of lift. For me that would mean I stand to gain 2.5 inches just from my shackles.
My plan was to build a set of bastard packs that would give me a minimum of three inches.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0008-2.jpg
A before picture

Now, let's get started
There are several threads here that tell you what springs will work best for building a set of bastard packs. There are S10's, Dakota, Dodge van, F-150 rear springs and several others that are proven. I decided to go against the grain a little and try something new, and for me cheaper.
Since I live in the middle of nowhere junkyards charge $100 for a used set of leaf springs. Since I only needed a short-term fix that was unacceptable to me. I just happened to have 3 sets of Toyota rear springs sitting in my bone pile. I picked a set of rear springs from a 1988 Toyota 4x4.
I took these springs in to the shop and measured them. They were 6 inches shorter eye-to-eye than the stock XJ leafs, but the off set was pretty close. I decided I would cut the eye off the Toyota main leafs and use them. The third leaf and the overload leaf had long non-clamping spring retainers on them. I measured the leaf springs again. I decided to use the third leaf as well. I took all the hardware off the springs then clamped the springs together with a C-clamp and took them apart. I then took the Toyota overload to the vise and cut the rivet that was holding the spring retainer clip. Then I threw the overload in the scrap metal bin. The third spring had a clamping style clip on one end and an extended non-clamping style retainer on the other. I cut the clamping one off. The rivet hole measured 3/8 of an inch. I then drilled out the retainer from the overload spring to 3/8 and went to the bolt bin for a 3/8 x 5/8 inch long bolt. I put the bolt in the vice and rounded the end. I then put the bolt in the retainer and put it on the spring to make sure it all fit well. It did. I got out a big hammer and, a pair of leather gloves, some channel locks, and the torch. With gloves and tented safety glasses on, I picked up the bolt by the end with the channel locks, the lit up the torch. I heated the bolt till it was cherry red and shut the torch down. I sat the bolt on the flat part of the vice, slid the retainer over the bolt then sat the spring down so the bolt would go through the old clamp and rivet hole. I took my big hammer and beat the top of the bolt flat and flush with the spring. Then I did it all over again with the second set.
Now it was time for rust removal and paint prep. I used and wire wheel and sanding disc to remove the rust. I picked up some Primer, and some Gloss Black Epoxy paint. I then primered and painted the donor leafs.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0044-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0046-1.jpg

Now it's time for removal of the stock XJ springs.
I jacked the jeep up and removed the rear tires. I placed jack stands under the newly fabricated rear bumper. I placed a pair of jacks under each side of the axle at the shock locations.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0026-2.jpg

I decided to do one side at a time. So, I disconnected the shock on the driver’s side. This will let the axle to droop far enough to easily remove the real spring. Then the stock brake line will stop you as well. I picked up a complete set of front and rear 95 YJ brake lines that are much longer. I clamped off the in place stock rubber line so not to leak and cut it in half with some snips. Then I loosened the spring, and shackle bolts, and removed the u-bolts. I lowered the axle to relax the spring, and pulled all the bolts and removed the spring.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0022-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0023-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0024-2.jpg

I took the old springs in to the other bay and started the magic. We removed all the old clips, the shackle, clamped them and removed the center pin.
I then took the pack apart and laid them side-by-side in the order that they came off. I took the two leafs from the Toyota and found where they would best fit in and started playing with combinations. After an hour of thinking, eating, and thinking again I decided on what the combination would be. I decided to use the XJ main, and second leaf then I added the Toyota main and third. Last but not least I used the last and smallest spring from the XJ pack to finish it off for a 5-spring pack. I once again clamped the springs together to check how they fit. I need to make a few adjustments to the Toyota leafs, so I marked and cut them to fit exactly where I wanted them.
Next came rust removal, paint prep, and paint.


Once paint was done it was time to put the leaf packs together. You can clamp them if you like, but I didn't. I grabbed a new set of center pins. I put the leafs in order. Let's back track here. Toyota leafs have 3/8 center pinholes. XJ's are 5/16. I had to drill out my XJ leafs. Spring steel is not easy to drill. Use plenty of drill lube and have a few extra bits laying around cuz your sure to use them. I then drilled out the axle mounted spring perch and the top plate. I bolted the pack together, and was careful not to over tighten the bolt.


Now it was time to install the new shackle, shocks, and spring. My little partner took the New IRONMAN4x4 extended and adjustable shackle in. I got him started on installing. We put the bolt in, but did not tighten. Next were the rear shocks. Out with the old and in with the new. My helpers and I then slid the new spring in to place. I screwed in the front spring bolt all the way but left it loose. I slid the spring on to the perch and got the pin in the perch hole. Then I jacked the driver’s side axle up enough to align the shackle bolt and installed it. I slid the new 2 1/2 inch wide 8 inches long 1/2 u-bolts on and through the top plate and installed the nuts and washers. I tightened the u-bolts in a criss cross method to ensure they were even. When done I cut the left over part of the u-bolt 1/2 inch above the nut. Then it was time to connect the shocks to the axle, tighten all the bolts, and move on to the other side.


After I was done with the springs I installed the new 95 YJ rear brake line and bleed the brakes.


The rear had two inches of lift and my first measurement from top of axle tube to the bottom edge of inner fender well was 11 1/8". After the spring install with full weight on the springs it measured a full 14 5/8 inches. It turned out I got my 5.5-inch lift on the first try


Things you will need to do the job.

2 cutting discs - $8.00
2 cans primer - $10.00
3 cans black epoxy paint - $18.00
1995 YJ rear brake line - $18.00
4 – 2 ½ x 1/2 inch u-bolts at least 6 ½ inches long - $64.00
You should buy at least two sets of center pins but one set will work if you get it right the first time - $4.00
Large container of brake fluid - $8.00
2 sanding discs - $11.00
That’s not counting new shocks!

A grand total of $141.00
I added a set of IRONMAN4x4 shackles for an additional $120. My total cost was $241.00.
 
Last edited:
I've been working on this XJ for a few months now. Those of you that are keeping up with My Daughters XJ build thread know it has come a long ways.
So far I have cut the fenders, and added a set of 33 BFG MT's. Next I built the rear bumper, rock rails, inner and outer steering/frame support plates, and a front winch bumper.
I have since decided it was time to start the suspension.
To get you up to speed, when I bought the Cherokee it had an incomplete 4.5 in lift in the front and 2 inch blocks in the rear. All parts were of an unknown origin. This has been bugging me for a while.
I do have new rear springs in the so called budget, but I decided I'd try my hand at building a set of bastards to get me by till I order the new ones.
I know I wanted to lift the rear 5 to 5.5 inches. I picked up a set of IRONMAN4x4 extended and adjustable shackles that measure 8 inches.
Now, stock shackles are a total of three inches long. Mine are eight inches. For those of you who don't know, when doing a shackle lift remember that for every added inch of shackle length you add 1/2 inch of lift. For me that would mean I stand to gain 2.5 inches just from my shackles.
My plan was to build a set of bastard packs that would give me a minimum of three inches.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0008-2.jpg
A before picture

Now, let's get started
There are several threads here that tell you what springs will work best for building a set of bastard packs. There are S10's, Dakota, Dodge van, F-150 rear springs and several others that are proven. I decided to go against the grain a little and try something new, and for me cheaper.
Since I live in the middle of nowhere junkyards charge $100 for a used set of leaf springs. Since I only needed a short-term fix that was unacceptable to me. I just happened to have 3 sets of Toyota rear springs sitting in my bone pile. I picked a set of rear springs from a 1988 Toyota 4x4.
I took these springs in to the shop and measured them. They were 6 inches shorter eye-to-eye than the stock XJ leafs, but the off set was pretty close. I decided I would cut the eye off the Toyota main leafs and use them. The third leaf and the overload leaf had long non-clamping spring retainers on them. I measured the leaf springs again. I decided to use the third leaf as well. I took all the hardware off the springs then clamped the springs together with a C-clamp and took them apart. I then took the Toyota overload to the vise and cut the rivet that was holding the spring retainer clip. Then I threw the overload in the scrap metal bin. The third spring had a clamping style clip on one end and an extended non-clamping style retainer on the other. I cut the clamping one off. The rivet hole measured 3/8 of an inch. I then drilled out the retainer from the overload spring to 3/8 and went to the bolt bin for a 3/8 x 5/8 inch long bolt. I put the bolt in the vice and rounded the end. I then put the bolt in the retainer and put it on the spring to make sure it all fit well. It did. I got out a big hammer and, a pair of leather gloves, some channel locks, and the torch. With gloves and tented safety glasses on, I picked up the bolt by the end with the channel locks, the lit up the torch. I heated the bolt till it was cherry red and shut the torch down. I sat the bolt on the flat part of the vice, slid the retainer over the bolt then sat the spring down so the bolt would go through the old clamp and rivet hole. I took my big hammer and beat the top of the bolt flat and flush with the spring. Then I did it all over again with the second set.
Now it was time for rust removal and paint prep. I used and wire wheel and sanding disc to remove the rust. I picked up some Primer, and some Gloss Black Epoxy paint. I then primered and painted the donor leafs.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0044-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0046-1.jpg

Now it's time for removal of the stock XJ springs.
I jacked the jeep up and removed the rear tires. I placed jack stands under the newly fabricated rear bumper. I placed a pair of jacks under each side of the axle at the shock locations.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0026-2.jpg

I decided to do one side at a time. So, I disconnected the shock on the driver’s side. This will let the axle to droop far enough to easily remove the real spring. Then the stock brake line will stop you as well. I picked up a complete set of front and rear 95 YJ brake lines that are much longer. I clamped off the in place stock rubber line so not to leak and cut it in half with some snips. Then I loosened the spring, and shackle bolts, and removed the u-bolts. I lowered the axle to relax the spring, and pulled all the bolts and removed the spring.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0022-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0023-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0024-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0024-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0023-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0025-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0022-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0029-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0028-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0027-1.jpg

I took the old springs in to the other bay and started the magic. We removed all the old clips, the shackle, clamped them and removed the center pin.
I then took the pack apart and laid them side-by-side in the order that they came off. I took the two leafs from the Toyota and found where they would best fit in and started playing with combinations. After an hour of thinking, eating, and thinking again I decided on what the combination would be. I decided to use the XJ main, and second leaf then I added the Toyota main and third. Last but not least I used the last and smallest spring from the XJ pack to finish it off for a 5-spring pack. I once again clamped the springs together to check how they fit. I need to make a few adjustments to the Toyota leafs, so I marked and cut them to fit exactly where I wanted them.
Next came rust removal, paint prep, and paint.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0044-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0046-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0047-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0048-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0049-1.jpg



Once paint was done it was time to put the leaf packs together. You can clamp them if you like, but I didn't. I grabbed a new set of center pins. I put the leafs in order. Let's back track here. Toyota leafs have 3/8 center pinholes. XJ's are 5/16. I had to drill out my XJ leafs. Spring steel is not easy to drill. Use plenty of drill lube and have a few extra bits laying around cuz your sure to use them. I then drilled out the axle mounted spring perch and the top plate. I bolted the pack together, and was careful not to over tighten the bolt.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0035-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0034-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0032-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0031-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0017-3.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0016-3.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0021-2.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0020-2.jpg

Now it was time to install the new shackle, shocks, and spring. My little partner took the New IRONMAN4x4 extended and adjustable shackle in. I got him started on installing. We put the bolt in, but did not tighten. Next were the rear shocks. Out with the old and in with the new. My helpers and I then slid the new spring in to place. I screwed in the front spring bolt all the way but left it loose. I slid the spring on to the perch and got the pin in the perch hole. Then I jacked the driver’s side axle up enough to align the shackle bolt and installed it. I slid the new 2 1/2 inch wide 8 inches long 1/2 u-bolts on and through the top plate and installed the nuts and washers. I tightened the u-bolts in a criss cross method to ensure they were even. When done I cut the left over part of the u-bolt 1/2 inch above the nut. Then it was time to connect the shocks to the axle, tighten all the bolts, and move on to the other side.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0042.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0041.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0052-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0053-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0037-1.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0036-2.jpg


After I was done with the springs I installed the new 95 YJ rear brake line and bleed the brakes.

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0058.jpg


The rear had two inches of lift and my first measurement from top of axle tube to the bottom edge of inner fender well was 11 1/8". After the spring install with full weight on the springs it measured a full 14 5/8 inches. It turned out I got my 5.5-inch lift on the first try

Before
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0035.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0039.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0008-2.jpg

After

http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0060.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0062.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0064.jpg
http://i788.photobucket.com/albums/yy164/wade_hack/000_0063.jpg

Things you will need to do the job.

2 cutting discs - $8.00
2 cans primer - $10.00
3 cans black epoxy paint - $18.00
1995 YJ rear brake line - $18.00
4 – 2 ½ x 1/2 inch u-bolts at least 6 ½ inches long - $64.00
You should buy at least two sets of center pins but one set will work if you get it right the first time - $4.00
Large container of brake fluid - $8.00
2 sanding discs - $11.00
That’s not counting new shocks!

A grand total of $141.00
I added a set of IRONMAN4x4 shackles for an additional $120. My total cost was $241.00.
 
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