dealership said it was to old...
I bet you can make a key for it. Get half a dozen blanks that fit it from Home Depot (they'll sell you blanks, just figure out which one it is and pick up a handful of them, bring them to the register, you might want to only pick up one or two and go back if you screw up otherwise they'll think you are trying to steal a car or something.) Since the lock wafers are not perfectly machined, they will bind one at a time if you try to start it with a blank. So turn the blank till it stops turning, keep pressure on it, and move it very very slightly in and out of the lock... this will rub a small mark on the side of the blank. You can use that to use a file to grind that spot to approximately the right height, always grind conservatively because it's easier to grind more than add some back. Also make sure you slope the sides of each cut like a normal key or you won't be able to get the key back out!
Every time you repeat this, you should get a mark on the key, grind a little more depth on that spot and repeat. If it's a double sided like my 96 you only need to grind one side of the key, once you get it working you can copy that to the other side (on a new blank, avoid screwing up the only working key you have.) Also, the blank at Home Depot is the AXXESS+ number 19 (for a 96, probably a 94 as well.)
Another tactic you can use, if your glovebox has a lock, is to disassemble that lock. If you want I can post more info on how to do that. It'll give you the depths of the last 3 wafers, but not the first 3. If your doors and ignition were keyed alike originally you can also pull a cylinder out of a door and either disassemble it and use the info to make yourself a key, or bring it to a locksmith who can do the same.
EDIT: also, as well as the turn-and-move-key method of marking it for cutting, you can probably get a decent idea by putting a very thin layer of paint or permanent marker on it and doing this. That may be slightly easier to work with.
atriot:
